Gunsmoke

Great club project, I'm surprised we don't hear of more club projects like these. I realize someone has to take the initiative and offer/find a space to do it all (at least 600 ft sq for 6-12 months)), and that is often a challenge. Thanks for taking this on and keeping us posted.

It is referred to as a "Front Wheel Hub Dust Washer Assembly", in Pre 1934 Chrysler Master Parts list, (page C-2-B, part 11 in illustration) and on page C-22-9 in Wheels group it is listed as Chrysler part #50342, code R (model 75) and is same for code J (Model 72)and code W (Model 77). Now if you are looking for a seal manufacturer's #, that is another story.

Here is a sample 1931 Chrysler CD8 power plant photo from a project being restored somewhere, in this case restorer installed B/C pedals on drivetrain before painting it, but left engine color only below floor. From my experience, trying to paint large objects with interference from items standing away from the object is very inconvenient, as "paint shadow" get cast as well as the difficulty of getting paint to al the faces of the pedal shafts in this case. But what do I know, I was born 15 years later! Still cannot imagine blue/green pedals in the driver compartment, certainly have never see one.

3rd photo is very close to ones used for for 1931 Chrysler headlight mount, passenger side, perhaps used on other Mopars as well. Fits on end of a cross bar, and bolts to fender bracket thru fender. Dimensions would confirm which model.

I have a pair of photos of driver and pass side door threshold pieces for the Roadster. They appears to be aluminum with an interesting pressed in "art deco" design. I plan on making a pair soon, they are pretty simple to form, about 3" on the vertical and a rolled lip of about 3/4" and same piece will fit either side. There is a slight modification at rear post location to deal with the original post to frame riveted bracket. About 24"+ long and have about 5/16" curve fore and aft. Thinking I may approach a local laser etching company and see what they can suggest to replicate the original Chrysler pattern which is about 2"high x 22" long, leaving a clear margin all around.. That would likely have to be done on a flat piece and forming made afterward. Anyone made these? Also, the photos show some evidence of paint in parts of the pattern, anyone know what factory ones looked like. These are missing from most CD8's I find. BTW, I assume they have 8 dark bars at center because it is a straight eight? I may get CHRYSLER centered in opening, or the Caligraphic C. but who knows.

While we can conjecture all sorts of "who knows", reality is it was convenient and very judicious to assemble "short" engine (water pump included but no starter/gen/manifolds etc), bell housing and transmission and paint in one piece. The top of block would likely be masked off and silver colored head and gasket added later. All the related add-ons, starter and pedal, generator, B/C pedals, oil filter housing, head, fan, manifolds, wire loom, etc would never have a reason to be anything but black. Most such parts were often coming from a different source and also used on different models/makes (like Dodge DC8 versus Chrysler CD8). But, if anyone wants to paint their pedals or any other add-on a different color than black, go for it.

With a range of interior color schemes being used at the time, I cannot imagine they used any color but black for the B/C pedals. While the engine and bell housing and transmission may have been painted as a complete assembly (they were all green/grey/blue on my 1931 CD8), they all were in engine bay and below floor, pedals would have been installed later and were black for my car as were starter pedal, accelerator, steering column etc. Introducing the engine blue into driver compartment is something I have never seen.

Found this photo on internet, lists as 1927 Paige 6-45 Coupe, note door seems to match OP. The enlarged photo below of OP hub/grease cap seems to show a diamond pattern logo in center of cap, perhaps a Paige logo as shown below, they used both a white diamond with dark letters like this, and also a dark diamond with white letters. So likely as mentioned above, some circa 1926/27 model of Paige/Jewett company product. Note how belt line ends on top of rear fender like in OP.

Don't think we are done yet. Note that the window door glass comes down to what appears perhaps an upper bead without a further distance to top bead such as is shown in all suggestions so far. 8 bolt hub, 5 wheel rim lugs, relatively small/short trunk lid with very modest handle, built in roof overhang, etc suggests a basic car, looked at many, no cigar.

Thanks guys, very stylish for the time, middle of WWI, although picture may be later teens.

So what have we got here? Was thinking circa 1920, but make?

Today I decided it was time to make some leather corners for the hood side panels, as every time I raise or lower them I have to be very careful not to strike adjacent sheet metal, cowl/headlights etc. Not sure what was there originally. As shown, there are very large holes, about 1/4"+ hard to believe they would have used 1/4" rivets? As well, the corners are not 90 degrees, forward ones are about 95 degrees, back corners about 85 degrees. So that means none of the 4 leather corners have same shape. So with a bit of patience, I managed to figure out a pattern for them, with front two a mirror image of each other. Since these are temporary installations (may eventually be permanent), I found some suitable slotted screws with "T" nuts in my misc box, (think they came from an old hockey helmet, used to hold chin strap on)! They are fine for now.

I'm sure most if not all members on here will agree that restoring a car has been an "unaffordable" exercise for years if by that you mean "a financially negative end value". However, those same members will tell you the reasons for restoring a car or taking on a "project car" specifically are many. It may involve a car that means something special to them (had one 50 yrs ago, or have had since new and it needs to be redone), or simply be a hobby (like playing golf another expensive hobby with no return), it may be working for or with a friend or family member as a bonding exercise, it may be a car left to you by someone special, or it may just be a bucket list item. For some (like edinmass), it may be as an expert relied on by other people/owners. Regardless, we all have known for a long time, always better financially (if that's your only measuring stick) to buy something already finished.

Great work! OK I give up, you win!

Ok, so lets summarize, RARE or RARITY of a thing is defined as "not found in large numbers and consequently of interest or value". So the key element is "small numbers". When it comes to cars (old, or even relatively new), it should be noted that the definition says nothing about the age of a thing. Faberge Eggs were valuable and rare the day they were made in very limited numbers for Russian rulers. Bugatti Royales or Atlantics were rare the day they were produced in only a handful. Other cars become rare by definition as numbers surviving decline to a very small fraction of original production, particularly if they are cars of wide interest. Like most adjectives, it is up to the user to decide if it should be applied. I'm sure it would be hard to find a rare Volkswagen or Model T, or just about any mass produced car since WWII, but just about any Duesy could be described as one.

Here is the standard vent I put on top of axle housing on 1931 Chrysler CD8. I think these are still available, I have a spare if you cannot find one locally.

Pretty well covered everything. 600W oil (not 600 wt or weight) is equivalent to about 250-300 weight modern formulas. Install a vent in axle housing, quite a bit of pressure can get built up in a rear end during long drives causing oil mist to be expelled thru inner seals, affecting both the bearings and risking getting out to brake shoes. Assuming modern grease is used in wheel bearings, it is not likely to migrate much unless polluted by oil from rearend. Finally outer seal is as much as anything intended to prevent dust and road debris from getting into bearings, so does not have as demanding a role as inner seal. For my CD8 I reused old leather seals. Thoroughly checked them for wear, and that compression springs were still effective. Should be plenty good for the amount of miles our restored cars get.

The local 'rubber" suppliers had some 1/2" thick reasonably firm product, gave me a 2x6 scrap. Hard to find proper gauge sheet copper locally, so opted for some solid copper 1/2" plumbing clamps, the reinforced end was perfect for back end of the piece. Bent to shape easily using needle nose pliers. Cut rubber pieces to shape, leaving them large enough to squeeze into housing but not too tight for wedges. Lined housing with some silicone caulk to keep pieces in place and vice put them back to shape easily, and a couple coats of paint and they work fine. Doors close with a nice thunk.

Yes, MOPAR spare side-mount hold downs. Here is one for my 1931 Chrysler CD8, measures about 6.25" long. Note the roundish slot on one end fitted over head of an acorn nut secured to fender bracket. Center hole takes stud and wingnut. Square rubber imbedded end sits against wheel rim. Appears your example may have been cut off at wheel end..

Got some lighter duty rad hose at Parts for Trucks in 1.25" and 1.5" and hooked up simply by using a little soap and water to slip them fully onto inlet and outlet on rad and pulling back onto engine pieces. Decided to tackle a small job, making a wedge/dovetail for one of the doors (one went missing during body work) and rebuilding the corresponding post-mounted slots. Rob in Maryland sent me a couple of "close ones", but hole spacing off by 3/32" and they were too large, causing them to strike post before door would close. So sawed the wedge off one and welded it to a flat piece of 18 gauge and a little filing makes for a good piece. slots are worn sufficiently that there is no contact with wedge as door closes. I pried one open and copper mating surface was broken and soft rubber worn as well. Will pick up some proper density rubber tomorrow and look for some suitable copper strapping, about 1/2" wide x 16-18 gauge. Unrelated, my Volvo C30 sprung a power steering leak last month. The local shop diagnosed the issue required a new rack and quoted $1700 for parts and $550 for labor. After a day thinking about it, decided if I can tackle a '31 project, surely a steering rack cannot be that big a deal. Had a friend pull rack, turns out one of the 1/4" hydraulic lines was leaking (rusted out and not visible until removed from car) and for $66, the local hydraulic specialists made 2 new lines shown painted black. Now just a matter of reinstalling with fingers crossed. If it all works, will save me $1800.

Just my opinion, but I assumed the keyhole slots you show are only on outer pair of cleats (and yours should be at back end of cleats rather then front end) and were intended to anchor the leather tie down straps which are also attached to a footman loop at rear of seat. Leather straps would gave a chromed steel end shaped to lock into the slot . At least on the later CD8's that was the case. As for those saddle thingies, not sure why they would only be on outer ends and why they are necessary at all. Don't see how they would fit into those keyhole slots? Unless they have a gizmo on underside not shown? Someone must have pictures of the complete assembly, cleats, saddles and straps.

I was facing this issue 9 years ago when I purchased this 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster. I had heard about the car from my Dad in the 70's and 80's, a friend of his owned it and modified it in the early 50's, but the car had gone missing for about 50 years. Dad's mechanic friend had bought it in a scrap yard, rebuilt it with a 1947 Cadillac V8, LaSalle transmission and Auburn dual ratio rear end, chopped top mechanism and windshield by 1.5", Electroline (aftermarket) headlights, 1935 International truck bumpers, '32 Plymouth door handles, '32 Auburn front hubs, 35 Auburn rear hubs, 15" wire wheels in front, 16" artillary wheels in back. Classic 1950's hotrodding aproach, use what ever is avaIlable and compatible. Body at time was good and gloss black suited it. A classic 1950's hotrod. When I found it in a barn in 1914, the drive train was with it (engine and transmission sitting at back of barn), in overall very rough condition. The decision I faced was whether to (1) rebuilt it as it was in early 50's hotrod mode, or (2) rebuild using a modern power plant (318/automatic) or (3) rebuild it something close to factory. Needless to say, no option would be cheap as Cadillac engine was in need of full rebuild, and frame had been modified in a manner making it weak and subject to twisting. I decided to rebuild the roadster to 1931 Chrysler CD8 factory specs within reason (I found a rough sedan donor car), but have always felt any of the 3 options should have been OK with most clubs. I did manage to find some photos of the car from early 50's with Dad's friend sitting with it, and at a car show in 1966, shortly before it was "barned". Picture in primer is as I found it in fall 2014with a set of correct CD8 headlights I purchased at the time. Ironically, I paid $400 on eBay for the CD8 headlights, and sold the Electrolines without lenses for $650!

Tom Laferriere posted these photos on AACA back in 2009 of a Model 75 I believe he was selling, shows some of what you are looking for.

Interesting thread, will be interested in seeing how you make out. Do you have any of the sheet metal, woodwork or operating window mechanism. I help a friend build a coupe roof for his 1927 Pontiac from scratch, all he had was the steel top piece seen here, and 2 pieces of steel corners his Dad had made up 40 years ago. These rooves were wood framed, and then padded and covered in fabric. Window did not operate, and he had something approximate made by a local window shop complete with rubber surround, made wood opening to suit and fabric stapled/fitted neatly to it.

I had forgotten how difficult it was to get the radiator correctly placed in these shells. As seen in photo, the rad neck has to be absolutely dead center in shell hole so the very tight fitting rad cap/ornament will fit on. Clearance is about 1/32". After a couple of hours (more like 3/4) of swearing, prying, and testing (while being very careful not to damage the ornament), it was finally together. now it is installed it in the car and secured loosely . Working alone, I assembled just the 2 top leaves of the hood and center hinge and with a bit of hassle fitted them in place with X brace, and bottom bolts of shell loosely secured. I then put side panels in place one at a time, steel hinge pin rods went in reasonably easily. Some final adjustment of fore aft/side to side gaps and then secured X-brace and lower bolts. Spent a couple hours trying to shape the lower rad shell shroud to fit in place between shell and chassis. As mentioned previously, this shroud was distorted and some repairs made to it. While I felt it should go on top of lower lip of shell, there does not seem to be anyway to achieve that. Best I was able to get is shape correct so it can be secured in some manner to underside of shell. While 4 self tapping screws might work, I will explore other options and plan to put a 1/8" thick rubber gasket between the 2 surfaces to make up the 1/8" gap shown. Next stage is to fit the rad hoses. Lower one is always a tight squeeze, but can be done with rad shell secured in place, red hose goes in bottom, must look for a black piece.. Upper one is a different story. Last time I had some help and loosened x-brace by an 1" or so and was able to get hose on rad and gooseneck/thermostat. This time I will instead try removing gooseneck (just 2 nuts), then fitting hoses loosely in place on gooseneck and rad, and then re-bolting gooseneck. More than one way to skin a cat!