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Gunsmoke

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Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. I've been in touch with "Doorsills", prompt reply, he can make 'em, just waiting on some info before ordering.
  2. I have same setup on my 1931 CD8 Roadster, and no one seems to have any good original photos of the back of seat mechanisms. My speculation is that the seat back was split. A 3 piece articulated hinge allowed the passenger side seat back to be raised off the bench (which was fixed) to gain access to the RS area (for example if it got locked and you lost the key?). Also perhaps to transport long items, like skies, poles, etc. For 1931, the driver side back was also hinged, but they connected to a device used like a scissor jack type to enable the seat back to be moved forward and backward up to
  3. Ditto to all of the above, this thread has been my morning coffee companion for past couple of months and presented some wonderful rare cars and certainly lots of photos I've never seen. Thanks to all who contributed, there are probably hundreds more great photos yet to see.
  4. Looking for a pair of these embossed aluminum sills/thresholds for my 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster project. Phaetons may have used similar ones. Thanks for looking around!
  5. I'm looking for door threshold pieces for my 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster, have never seen them but this picture shows a pair. Anything looking like this kicking around your parts pile? I suspect they were embossed aluminum. Phaetons probably wore similar pieces.
  6. When I look at all these period photos from circa 1930 "Concours d'Elegance" events, it dawns on me that (1) they truly focused on the elegance factor, especially the clothes, formal photos etc, and (2), the cars were typically close to brand new, often same year, suggesting it was as much about bragging rights, showing off, or presenting rare new cars as anything else. I presume some much older cars were included, but so often it seems in this thread that a 1931 Cadillac, HS or Duesenberg appears in a 1931 or 1932 Concourse. Would be unusual today to see a new car in a C d'E event? Now I have
  7. While I like the logo and consider it well done, it does reflect about 1940-1970 give or take, certainly no earlier than 1938. I'm sure the same artist if given a 1915 touring, a 1932 coupe, a 1950 finned wonder, and a 1970 Muscle car of the right sequence/proportions, could create the same nice image.
  8. Mike, I sent you a PM re MC vents. For others, here is photo of MC with proper vent and switch in place. Note small hole in top of hollow filler bolt.
  9. A view from top of rear roof cross member, note the short added piece necessary to house the tenon for a new cross slat. Floor framing under front seats accommodates tool tray @ photos showing original braces at new front door post, and at original rear door posts.
  10. Photos of rear roof area with old wood removed.
  11. This series shows how I replaced the rear roof cross member. In order to avoid disturbing the steel brackets shown, I created a 2 piece tapered end, pre-drilled and fittted with 3/8" T nut installed flush on upper side, then simply slipped the wedge in first, with glue on it, then the long top piece and put 3/8" countersunk machine screw up through bracket and bothe wood pieces. Notch in upper piece is to recieve the roof side rail.
  12. When I decided to rebuild my 1931 Chevrolet coach back in 2008, the primary reason for a re-build was bad wood. Doors had a 1/2-3/4" droop, turns out front posts were shot. 2 major areas needed attention, front and back. Up front, both front door posts, the front half of the main sills, the ends of the roof side rails and the front roof header were shot or crudely fixed. In back, the rear roof cross member, and about 16" of roof side rail was badly rotted. That's about 35% of the wood. I realized it could be done without de-skinning the entire car, so that's what I did. I have the required woo
  13. When you have 72 spokes on a wheel like this, where the lug wrench has to go through the spokes, the spoke count needs to be a multiple of the bolts. Since there are 72 spokes, bolts pattern would be 6 or 8, and in this case 8. For a 10 bolt wheel you would expect 80 spokes (40 inner, 40 outer), or 60 spokes (30 inner, 30 outer), 04 40 (20 inner and 20 outer like the Marmon), some multiple of 10. 70 or 50 would never be used. spokes are always strung/placed in pairs, and 1/2 of 70 is 35 which cannot be paired. BTW, your second photo clearly shows 6 holes and only room in hidden are for 2 more.
  14. I can only count 8 lug holes? Looks like 72 spoke. (a multiple of 8). If OD is 22", tire size is likely 20". I'm not sure ring goes with that wheel, without a split etc, not sure how it would be held on, may be for a different type demountable wheel type. A wheel from that period normally has a spring steel split/lock ring like this one by Budd, for circa 1929/30 Marmon (ignore Chrysler hubcap).
  15. By 1931, the "reservoir" was part of the master cylinder unit and the passage to the piston/cylinder area is internal, the unit has a vent on top of the filler bolt on top of reservoir as shown here (I have installed a temporary modern vent). I'm not familiar with models that use a separate cowl mounted fluid reservoir, but assume the line from the reservoir to the MC would be gravity fed, not pressurized. The brake light switch goes in the spare hole shown.
  16. Just the opposite leomara, the 5/16" input line comes from the Master Cylinder and the 1/4" output lines go to the wheel cylinders. Here's the math: 1/4" O/D lines are 3/16" I/D while 5/16" O/D lines are 1/4" I/D, as both size lines have same wall thickness of 1/32". Capacity of each line is based on pressure and cross-sectional area of line. Since hydraulic pressure is equal in all directions, only the cross-sectional area is a factor in calculating capacity. A 1/4" line like these has a cross sectional area of about .028 square inches (Pi x R-squared). A 5/16" line has a cross sectional area
  17. No question for me, painting including all the prep, tape, prime sand clean, touch-up, prime sand clean, prime sand clean, then re-tape, paint, paint.....is the most difficult of all jobs. No room for error, everything is seen, and even minor stuff will bug you forever. I didn't even mention fully assemble, then disassemble then re-aassemble.. grrr. And if you want to hire a quality guy/shop to do it, then be ready to pay big $$$. I think it is the most discouraging part of a full restoration.
  18. Listen Buddy, you're just lucky that wasn't my Mustang!!
  19. I would suspect that the movie bosses wanted only the biggest names/Alist in the lead roles in their productions (just like today), and if cars were to be used, only wanted the Alist cars as well. Exceptions might be made for movies based in rustic/rural locales, or in poor neighborhoods, but I suspect most movies were intended for escapism, and thus upper crust in nature.
  20. A truly wonderful collection of Hollywood's finest! Cars were really a prestige item in that era, and the photography is superb.
  21. Thanks for suggestions Taylormade re tubing, maybe next time!. All of my brake lines are inside frame, but the gas line steps outside on passenger side behind the running board apron, and then returns inside frame near front fender.. Note also the line at rear end is armored with a full length steel spring? Your car is looking great, haven't followed your thread lately, will have to go peek.
  22. This gearshift boot (or large grommet for some other use) appears to be NOS or NORS, Don't know what it fits, measures oval 4.75"x5", has 2" center hole, sloped as shown, rises about 1.75". Excellent supple rubber, stamped on bottom Jr 5. $20 plus shipping to a new owner. If any interest let me know, or if you know what it fits, please let me know
  23. No rear quarter, but have this solid hood and scrap cowl? And this set of hood hardware?
  24. I've posted a thread on this for my '31 CD8, most likely similar fittings although routing may not be identical (my front passenger side requires a line across front cross member near rad shell). As mentioned, here are the essential 3 flex hoses that are available on ebay from various sellers. I also show the T-fitting/splitter for rear axle, and the 4 way fitting at front frame which receives the lead from master cylinder and directs fluid to R/L front and to rear. On my car all lines are 1/4" standard fittings, while line to master is 5/16" steel. The 4 wheels for mine have special cast bras
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