Gunsmoke

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Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. Selling 2 very good 20's era Stewart vacuum tanks, a Stewart model 215-G (shown sandblasted and painted black) and a Stewart Model 189-A shown in original patina. Both of these have excellent (but not meddled with) internals and no signs of any issue. Don't know what they may have been used on, but I suspect will suit many applications. Asking $250 for the pair plus shipping, or $150 each plus shipping, or best offer. Send a PM if interested. Hard to find in this condition.
  2. Thanks Greg, here is photo from a previous post showing a "1920 Model K46 6cyl Buick" and similar Marvel J2H carb with similar intake manifold. As you note, exhaust manifold is different entirely for this car. Vac tank is shown as you describe. The gizmo bolted to top of exhaust manifold in original posting is puzzling? Don't think anyone would mount a generator there, lot of heat and would not want excess vibration etc, plus size of mount is quite small. So remains a mystery as to what it is. Equally puzzled as to what the tin baffle/cover plate was closing off. Almost looks like there may have been an exhaust cross-over pipe for an early V6? later converted to dual exhaust? Just musing here!
  3. I'm assumed these came from same engine, the upper one is exhaust, and has a bolt on gadget bracket? on one end, and a close-off plate at other end (perhaps for a add-on manifold heater?). The lower intake manifold mates up to the carbs correctly. Carbs are Marvel units, each noted as J2H, and have further markings such a C, A2, and Y. Based on a previous post about Marvel J2H, these could be circa 1920 Buick or an industrial/tractor application (thus cast iron versus brass on some pieces), and intake manifold looks near identical to 1920 era Buick. However exhaust is not 1920 era Buick, so the 2 manifolds may be from different engines. Hope this helps.
  4. With credits to Michael Jackson: "Billie Jean is not my lover She's just a girl who say that I am the one but the kid is not my son"
  5. Planning on selling this pair of early 6 cyl manifolds found recently among a hoard of parts, and what I believe to be their correct carburetors. Anyone have a suggestion as to what they may fit? Thanks.
  6. I've posted several 1931 LaSalle parts for sale in the general "Parts for Sale" forum.
  7. I have a similar one with casting number, 88123-1, it is for a 1927/28 Model 52 Chrysler Rumble Seat Roadster/Coupe. Its holes are off center. According to the Chrysler parts book, yours, #69604, is for a late production 1926/27 Chrysler 50, with the earlier model 50's using part #69603. I see a similar step plate on some later Chrysler Imperials, and some have 2 such plates. I suspect these could be used on any of those cars with modification to mounting brackets under fender.
  8. Piano hinge doors? Not sure anyone used them. So perhaps a prop car as suggested.
  9. This 1931 LaSalle aluminum crankcase is for sale, includes crankshaft shown and a cam, oil and water pumps (seized), end covers, and pan. Again, I'm not sure if there is much demand for this kind of stuff, rare does not necessarily mean valuable. Crankshaft could be removed for shipping if it is not wanted. Manifold shown is not included (see posting elsewhere for that). If interested send a PM.
  10. Here are the screw-on hubcaps, rough, but rare. Asking $40 for the set of 4 plus shipping.
  11. Among the pile of LaSalle parts are these 2 wheels and 4 drums. One wheel is missing 2/3 spokes and other has a notch out of rim (easy repair?). The hubs are different from one another, the bulkier 2 fit the wheels, the second 2 are studded, perhaps someone can advise just what is what. All have bearings included, so we are assuming they are for front. He will sell these as a lot or individually. $50 an item plus shipping sound fair? Also has 4 hubcaps that screw onto the bulkier hubs, I'll post those in a second reply to this ad.
  12. Also has these 2 crankcase breather tubes and I include pic of carb (he has 2)..
  13. My friend with the 1931 era LaSalle parts also has these cooling system pipes that he may decide to sell if he has duplicates. If interested in anything, send me a PM.
  14. Here is what he has regarding the intake manifold and pipes and carb (he has 2 carbs). Let me know level of interest by PM.
  15. This 1931 LaSalle hood and cowl are among the many LaSalle parts recently unearthed in a hoard of stuff. Doors are working although one is missing, and handles and catches are all there in excellent condition. Only surface rust, no rust out anywhere. Asking $500 OBO ($375USD) locally for both including a rough passenger side fender. If these is any interest let me know.
  16. I'll also take a look, I think he has the round LaSalle embossed piece for center of engine, but not sure if this exact piece is in the pile. The hoard of parts sat in a barn/storage for a long time, left over from a LaSalle restoration project many years ago. He was planning on assembling a non-working display engine from the pile of pieces from 2 dismantled engines, and so is not just getting rid of the better pieces at fire sale prices. He has nearly everything for a display model, aluminum crankcase with cam/crank, timing gear, oil pump, end covers, 4 blocks, 2 heads, exhaust , intake and water piping, water pump and fan , generator etc. But he may let some things go if price is reasonable or if he has a spare. What is one of these manifolds worth ballpark?
  17. A friend acquired this rare '30/'31 LaSalle right side exhaust manifold among a large batch of LaSalle parts from 1929-1931 era. As shown this is in excellent condition, wearing much of its original porcelain finish. He is asking US$400 + shipping. If anyone has an interest or has an inquiry about other engine components for these V8 engines, let me know. He has a wide range of intake manifold pieces, carbs, blocks, heads, oil and water pumps, a 6 blade fan as well as 2 aluminum crankcases and pans.
  18. The British Morgan sports car is still made in small numbers and still uses largely hand-made bodies. Like many automakers of the 20's and earlier, they use wooden armatures/molds and hand form the sheetmetal using English wheels, beading tools etc and lots of hand finishing. The finished metal panels are then affixed to a similar wooden carcass (usually with nails). Some used steel bodies, some used aluminum, some used fabric on parts of the bodies. With the onset of Unions in the 30's, the cost of labour rose to the point that labour intensive body making became un-affordable except for the very wealthy. So one consideration for a novel as you propose is that clients of such an "exclusive" enterprise might be wealthy, perhaps aristocratic, perhaps eccentric even, just like the car company!
  19. IMHO except for the pliers, they are homemade/shopmade tools and quite possibly for grease cap removal on wagons, cars etc or other large fittings that were not ordinarily put on very tight such as tops protecting valves on pressure tanks.
  20. The original factory castings would have been engineered to transfer the stresses of heat and vibration (and perhaps poor bolting up to block) gradually at the exhaust pipe joint including the large tapered intersection (which is also likely thicker as well). The welded on one has no similar "engineering" and any poor alignment, vibration, or overheating, including during the welding process) could result in cracking. I would not trust a re-weld or stitch weld process because the engineering of the intersection is weak, not to mention getting the face of the flanges in perfect alignment would be tough to achieve.
  21. I personally consider a car to be able to be referred to by its original name if the rolling chassis and a majority of it's inners are original, or if the body is original. As for "adjectives" to place, as mentioned they can be numerous, and most of us know generally what they mean. In the Glenn Frey case, I think "re-bodied" is perhaps the best adjective. For the Tucker, "non-factory prototype convertible" will work. Of course "resto-mod" covers a lot of sins, as does hot-rod, chopped, mild custom, clone, and on and on. Manufacturers (or body specialists) themselves back in the day, like Rolls Royce would re-body a car almost any way the owner wanted it, and many of those cars are more highly valued today than they would have been in their original body. Sort of like a "nip and tuck". Not many hard and fast rules when it comes to owners deciding to take some license with the original manufacturers product. Just nice when they disclose.
  22. When I first opened up my '31 Chrysler 8cyl flathead (had not been run in 60 years), it was clear a PO had been trying to solve a valve sticking problem without removing the head. I don't know if the '37 Olds valve setup is similar. The manifolds on my car were loose, and when I removed the side valve covers, all the valve spring retainers had been removed from the valve springs, again by a PO. When I then removed the head, which it appeared had never been off, I found the exhaust valve at #8 stuck solid (took a great deal of effort to pull it out), intake was also very tight, and 5 or 6 other valves were sticking. I had to ream out the #8 valve guide quite a bit (with proper valve guide reamer), less so on the others which were obviously carboned up from some sort of improper maintenance, and made sure all valves stems moved up and down freely. Refaced valves and lapped them in, all is working well now, compression 77lbs-86lbs across the 8 cylinders. I agree with above suggestion that it sounds like a problem with a valve(s) not closing properly. Insure timing is correct or that can also upset compression. My engine calls for timing set when #1 cyl is a few degrees before TDC (piston .006 from TDC).