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Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. Most wooden spoked wheels I have seen for many makes have the brake drum/hub an integral part of the wheel, usually bolted thru the spokes with 6-8 bolts using a hub flange on outer face, and the drum as a backing plate. Many such wheels have split rings or lock rings to permit easy tire changing without having to remove drum&hub. For wire wheels, the wheel is completely separate from the hub&drum assembly, fitted with 5 standard lug nuts or bolts. Here is photo of what I think are early 30's Auburn wire wheel front hubs/drums, rears would be similar except fronts have bearings in hub while for rear, bearings are in axle housing. 3rd&4th photo is of a rear hub/drum/wheel from a 1930 Dodge DC8 showing the drum integral with the wheel, secured thru the spokes with 8 bolts. Hope this helps.
  2. I'm planning on offering these for sale, came on a 1950's era "hot-rodded" Chrysler CD8, (were installed on car circa 1953) but are not MOPAR. FYI, the Chrysler Spindle and Auburn spindle were identical size and tapers, only slightly different key on rears (5/16" versus 1/4"). Car had a '35 era Auburn dual ratio rear-end and drums. I think I was told 4 years ago that they are likely earlier 30's Auburn, perhaps 1931/32? Specs, 12" cast steel, 2.125" deep, 5x5 bolt pattern (interestingly, one has studs, other takes lug bolts), minor pitting on drum, come with excellent bearings and inner seals. Looking for confirmation on make, year, and an indication of value to ask? Thanks.
  3. It's not fair, some guys have all the fun!!
  4. I have this very assembly for sale on WPC site, wood 4 spoke wheel, column, controls, box C18358 etc, understand it was for 1928 era Chrysler and Plymouth. This assembly has jacket length of 37.4"(underside of wheel to adjusting nut on box). I have a near identical assembly with same box C18358 that is 38.25" long, and uses a 4 spoke bakelite wheel slightly different controls and was told was 1929 Dodge. So my guess is box C18358 was used for 2-3 years for several MOPAR products, but caution buyers as jacket/shaft length varied by model, as did controls and maybe clum switch. The wooden spoked wheel is interesting as it appears to be all wood except for a small steel hub.
  5. Spokes on steering wheel suggest earlier than late 20's, I'm thinking perhaps 1912-1916, an era when right hand drive was common.
  6. Set of 4 very nice Marmon wire wheels, I think for '29/30 Roosevelt perhaps, 19" 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern, I had them sandblasted and powder-coated black with powdercoat chrome on rings. Also have 3 original Marmon hubcaps (fit 6.5" hubcap hole) which came with them. I've shown one with a '32 Chrysler CP hubcap that also fits as do mid 30's Auburns. These had been in long term storage for perhaps 50 years or more. Have $800 Canadian (US$600) invested in them, was planning to use on my Chrysler CD8 Roadster project, but since found a good set of 18" Chrysler wires. If interested, send me a PM.
  7. Here is photo of rumble seat latch/striker plate for 1931 Chrysler, simple tongue made out of just sheet metal, spot welded to vertical lip and also on underside of deck lid. Pretty easy make for a bodyman. If you google images for your make/model, you will likely see a similar latch. Sticks out about 1" to catch the latch, tapered on top so latch easily rides over it, flat on bottom, much the same shape as any striker on a door, but made from sheet metal.
  8. Have listed a pair of recently found 1926 Dodge Brothers front fenders for sale in Chrysler Parts for sale (don't ask why?). Here they are, driver side very good, passenger side needs some minor repair, asking $300 OBO +shipping.
  9. FYI, I've listed a 1950 Oldsmobile deluxe Radio for sale in parts for sale forum.
  10. Selling a set of 5 1935/36 era Auburn steel wheels, 4 in excellent condition, fifth needs minor finishing of repair. Currently wearing garage roller 7:00x16" wide whites, but can demount if only rims are wanted. $400 for everything + shipping, or $120 per wheel+shipping. Send PM if interested.
  11. Have this circa 1950 Oldsmobile Deluxe Radio, found "as is", $25 plus shipping if anyone interested before it goes to the scrap heap. Will sell parts of it if requested. In Nova Scotia, Canada.
  12. Have this good pair of circa 1926 Dodge Brothers front fenders. Driver side fender is excellent, only some surface rust, straight, no dents 80% of original paint, passenger side has some rust holes in area of support bracket and small dent in lower front. I'd take $300 OBO for the pair, plus shipping or local pick-up. Driver side only, $200+shipping. Located In Nova Scotia, Canada. Send me a PM if interested, might fit other years, other Mopars.
  13. After spending the best part of 5 years gathering CD8 Roadster parts and determining what an original Roadster had as construction and equipment, this week I sent it off to an antique car colleague (his shop shown) who is very good at making body panels and historically correct detailing. Have given him many photos and literature on the car, and will be in touch regularly. He is long retired, so works as a hobby on these cars when in the mood, so might take several months. For now he will complete all sheetmetal work to epoxy primer state ready for paint, incl sandblasting, panel making, fitting and resolving any other issues, but nothing mechanical. He is building a jig to set body on after which I will retrieve rolling chassis to work on over the winter, incl brakes, drivetrain, wiring harness, shocks/suspension, steering, exhaust, gas tank, rad, wheels, windshield, folding top, gauges, seat, upholstery panels, search for still missing parts (tail light, deck cleats if any one has them) etc etc. Front fender final resolution is still down the road. These "barnfind" projects are sooooo easy!!
  14. There are 3 interrelated issues to this seemingly innocent question. (1) In my jurisdiction you can drive and have a normal license on any car you want as long as it will pass motor vehicle inspection (MVI). (2) If you want to license it as an antique and take advantage of the inexpensive plate ($20 versus $100 per year) it need only be certified as "roadworthy" by a licensed mechanic, must be a minimum 30 years old, and be for occasional use, and you need a 2nd licensed car. (3) Finally for insurance, my regular insurance company (not my Haggerty Insurance on my antique cars) will only provide collision coverage on a car older than 20 years if you provide them with an appraisal and pay a higher premium. Hopefully this helps.
  15. The side curtains were not only useful when driving in inclement or cold weather, most often they were useful when the car was standing still. Remember the car was not always stored in a garage when stopped. It was taken into town, to work, on a tour, or if no garage, left out year round. The side curtains were critical to keep out rain, snow, dust, critters, birds, insects you name it, even prying children or adults. Their likely weakest point was when used while driving, but my guess is owners bought them for all the other advantages.
  16. I have this one, appears to be original driver side curtain, given me recently by a friend who's father restored cars from the 20's 50-60 years ago. It is in excellent condition, would like to find it a good home, free to anyone who needs it and who will pay the ride. Just have the one.
  17. When you click on AACA forums, hit general discussion, and 3rd thread down is a "blowout sale of AQ's from AACA library, has contact name number etc. Just send them a personal message or call their # shown.
  18. I got 52-1 from AACA Library 7 or 8 months ago, so I have them all now!! I think I paid them $70+shipping for it. Give them a call, they may still have one kicking around.
  19. The entire steering assembly (horn button to box) was found in an old fellows shed 4 years ago, where he said it had been standing in the same corner when he bought the property 50 years earlier. I've seen similar wheels on internet circa 1928 Chrysler and Plymouth. Several local people interested in wheel only, but I hate to break up the whole assembly. But remain open to offers. I've been alerted to fact wheel has a 1/2" hole about 1/4" deep in one spoke, would take a 1/8" screw in back (see pic), not sure why, perhaps a spinner at one time. I planned to fill it with a proper wood plug, but no longer plan to use this wheel. To add more intrigue, I also have this 2nd assembly, I believe circa 1929 Dodge, 4 spoke bakelite wheel (excellent condition, no cracks) but it has one broken lever. The other set of controls shown below is for the wooden wheel. For those who might be interested in any of this stuff, the control rods for the wood wheel assembly (with 2 good levers shown) are 37&3/8" from lever plate to end of longest tube, and horn boss is 3&5/8" dia. The bakelite wheel controls have a 3" boss and rod length of 38&1/4" but as noted one lever is broken. Of course I also have jacket, shaft and box for both. Thanks for looking, if in need of something let me know, I'm in Nova Scotia Canada, so shipping should not be too high except if someone wants a column/box combo. Finally, I also have a good longer column/box (about 3" longer?)I think from a Dodge DC8, no controls or wheel.
  20. I see a variety of elements that suggest car in OP is not like Buick shown (rad surround shape, window proportions, ) But I did enlarge photo significantly and I believe can see thru the window of furniture store on near right a calendar on the back wall open to October 1921. Not sure of which day, but betting it is not a Sunday!
  21. I am selling 4 1929/30 era Marmon wire wheels, 19" diameter, 6 bolt, come with 3 original Marmon hubcaps. I purchased these as shown 3 years ago as a possible fit for a project I am doing, and had them sandblasted and powder-coated, black wheels, powder coat chrome rings. Have since found correct wheels for my car. I have $800Can invested in these (US$600) so if interested make an offer. Wheels are in Nova Scotia, Canada. Center hubcap hole is 6.5" will take several model hubcaps, Auburn, Chrysler etc.
  22. I have a complete steering wheel assembly for a 1928/29 era Plymouth/Chrysler, has very nice wood 4 spoke wheel, all center controls, horn button, clum switch, tight steering box etc. $220+shipping. let me know if any interest. SOLD
  23. Thanks Narve, shows more or less how I plan to mount the spare. As for the car, not sure just how much CD8 is there if any. Cool racer tho.
  24. Such a timeless exceptional design from about 60-70 years ago! Many, including me, think Italian design firms had by far the best looking cars of that period, and perhaps ever.
  25. I am currently restoring 2 1931 cars, and more than the issue of "visibility" are the issues of noise and contaminants. While I have a 1.5 acre lot and am some distance from neighbouring houses (closest is about 60 ft from garage), I remain aware of the loud noise an angle grinder can make, zip cutters, reciprocating saws etc. I try to keep garage door closed when I can to muffle sounds, or do these chores on opposite side of house from closest neighbor. None-the-less, my neighbor has a new-born, and I talked to them and advised if at any time my noise was disturbing them to please let me know. A few months have passed and no complaints. As for contaminants, restoring involves all kinds of spill potential, oil, gas, varsol, lacquer thinners etc. Again care can limit this, but the odors sometimes are harder to control. Covering these issues is likely elsewhere in the ordinances, but common sense suggests be aware of your neighbors rights to "quiet enjoyment" of their property.