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Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. Some easy ones here, (score me a passing grade) but if anyone got the Vega hat's off!
  2. Not at all a 'Vette fan, am curious if any of these gills were ever functional, even in performance models? Enjoying these quizes.
  3. I'm thinking he is trying to loosen the wheel locking nut or some such manoeuvre, perhaps trying to impress his girl? Car is jacked up, spare in wait? Regardless, I'm loving this whole series of old period photos, some wonderful shots from a classic era for great cars.
  4. Trimacar said: Actually, it’s said the high death rate in Nawlins is due to the love of food in New Orleans, the city has abnormally high numbers when it comes to obesity, blood pressure, and so forth, none of which helps one survive..... So let me see fellows, if the government leadership knew (in addition to everything else mentioned above) that a high number/percentage of their dear citizens were very vulnerable if they caught the flu due to underlying health problems/pre-conditions, then you would think (at least I would), that that would be a major reason to act swiftly, even more swiftly than other states, and cancel/postpone the Mardi-Gras. Am I missing something. No excuses any more. At some point someone has to be held accountable.
  5. Marty said " The New Orleans area now has 3,476 Confirmed Cases, up 328 since yesterday. Our death rate per-capita is highest in the nation - likely as a result of crowds from cruise ships and world-wide visitors during Mardi Gras - people shoulder to shoulder, six-deep, lining the many parade routes and the French Quarter during the weeks leading up to Fat Tuesday, Feb 25th - the week leading to our AACA Winter Nationals in Miami. Not sure I agree Marty,. The State's COVID19 death rate is highest likely because the State Governemnt allowed this event to happen on Feb 25th in the first place, in spite of all the warnings beginning in early January from epidemic experts at CDC on the serious nature of COVID19, it being very contagious and deadly, and early advice on avoiding recent arrivals, social distancing, avoiding large crowds, hand washing, etc, etc. The Mardi Gras events should have been cancelled but as I see it, the elected officials decided to roll the dice. Awful leadership statewide, and the Feds were silent. Sometimes there is an awfully dear price to pay for the almighty dollar. I see 8 states are still sitting on their asses as the national death toll passes 7000, but do note Alabama and Missouri got on board today.
  6. My edinmass, that's what happens when you're a 1 trick pony!! LOL
  7. Great photo, now please tell us what we're looking at, middle one easy, but the rest? chief's car on left, the monster on right.
  8. Enjoying these, getting 3-4 right as far as make, close on year, but not easy.
  9. But they are not washing it, not a sign of a drop of water on driveway. Great publicity shot though, they look like they love that Buick! Remembr listening to them 60+years ago, great trio.
  10. The engine is 1931/32 Chrysler Imperial CG or CH, based on design of thermostatically controlled shutter mechanism (CD8 is different), either 1931 or early 1932 (later '32's had hood doors). Not sure how to pin down further, hubcap is tough to read and I think is similar for both years.
  11. The RB aprons are similar to those used on 26/27 Pontiac, so perhaps Fisher body.
  12. I think we need to be patient with this offering, appears the person may be trying to sell what remains of his late father's legacy in Peerless cars. A good photo of the partially restored Coupe is shown and described as such. This is Anthony's first visit to our site and he should be accorded some latitude. He clearly wants phone calls as a means of determining level of interest and perhaps additional advice. I suspect he will/or has gotten a call or 2 regarding the boattail, pethaps the coupe, perhaps for the whole kit and kaboodle. Lets not discourage him from staying on here. I suspect there are a few Peerless experts on AACA who could offer him some ballparks on values, even with the limited descriptions, but for now he appears to be just letting us know what he has. He likey does not have any idea what any of it's worth. The photos & descriptions of the Boattail, Sedan and Coupe are enough for me to assess if I have any interest and I would not go any further without a phone call and a visit. (I live about 500 miles away, so a good days driving).
  13. John_Mereness, enjoying your great library of photos, placing these great old cars in period context tells a lot. A big Cadillac for example in front of a furriers seems so appropos.
  14. A 4th picture to go with above article on Mr Edgar Roy's Simplex's.
  15. Whenever I got back to model building over the years, I was inspired by some of the great Automobile modelers, such as Conti of Italy, and Gerald Wingrove of England whose book "The Complete Car modeler" published in 1978 is a great guide. However, I was most impressed a number of years ago by the astonishing work of Edgar Roy of West Roxbury, Massachusetts (and a 10 page arcticle "the Simplex Complex" published in Automobile Quarterly Vol 29-1, of January 1991). WHO! While having a successful career in Industrial Engineering, and taking time to restore 18 interesting cars, edgar Roy devoted much of the latter part of life and the best part of 30 years (and 23,000 hour) building a complete Model Line of the 1911 Simplex. He started with the idea of making 6 working miniatures of the 1911 Simplex he had recently owned and restored, including a display chassis, Speedwagon, Toy Tonneau, Seven Passenger Touring, 5 Passenger Tourer and an Indy Racer. Since the miniatures were to be "working models'', and the smallest practical working engine would need about 3/4"-7/8" dia pistons, everything else scaled up from there resulting in models of about 1/9 scale, and weighing about 20 pounds. The cars were built from scratch, with running engines (Pentane fueled, water cooled, battery electrics) 4 speed transmissions, manually operated brake shoes/drums and correct worm gear steering. At the time of the AQ article in 1991, the Roy family still owned 3 of the models, one was owned by the Browning Corporation of Utah, and 2 were owned by Richard Teague. former VP of design for American Motors. Pick up an issue of this book, this article alone is worth the price.
  16. and now I can't get it to come up... Bud, a lot of us are dealing with this!
  17. apolo1100 said "'but zooming in looks like a Chevrolet". Radiator is indeed 1931 Chevrolet, but headlights and cross bar are not and back tub does not remind me of Chevrolet Phaeton. Might be a mutt.
  18. Tom99, that's quite a well cared for and impressive collection. What to you do with your spare time!
  19. The cars were powered by a turbocharged 2.3 liter 4 cyl, giving them great fuel mileage and great passing accelleration. I owned 5 of them between 1985--2001 when I bought a very low mileage Nissan 300ZK as my toy. I drove the '85 and '88 models, the other 3 were parts cars as Ford ended sales in '89, and parts supply about '96. Also had 2 Merkur Scorpios, (the 4 dr version, my wife's cars actually) which were about size of full sized Mercury. very well appointed luxury car, but not much fun to drive. While the cars are long gone, I still have a factory issue 1000 page Shop Manual for both, if anyone reading this item is interested!
  20. For a visual look, here are the exposed top irons for my '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster. While the shapes of the various folding parts are no doubt diferent, the principles are the same, when erected, they only secure at a chrome knob at rear door post and 2 clips at windshield. Fabric top is clipped to rear deck to anchor back of top. While my top irons started life as originals, a PO in the 50's chopped them at several strategic points and re-welded them in order to lower top by about 1.5" overall, makes for a nicer look, but not original. He also cut windshield by about 1". I plan to leave all this 70 year old historical effort alone. Wood bows for mine were missing (replaced with bent steel pipe), I have made some from odds and ends, may use "as is" or eventaully get some steam bent. That task is well down the road. I also include a pic of an original set of Chrysler bows. In trying to rebuild my car, which had been massively altered over 80 years, I decided to aim at keeping it 100% 1931 CD8 Chrysler, but not spending a $1M getting everything factory. For example, the 1st and 2nd series CD8's had side vents at cowl while the 3rd series did not. Since those on mine were shot, and restoring to original was $2000+ in metal fabrication or so, I'm opting to delete them. Car has vent on top of cowl, which I did have rebuilt.
  21. another rare model is this 1935/36 Mercedes 500K Special Roadster, a kit I purchased about 25 years ago in a bag with instructions. The seller had started work on the engine and gave up. Not sure who made it. Probably about 1/16" scale, it is 12.5" long, note the 4 part folding hood. Having worked 1/32 scale, 1/24, and 1/20, (as well as 1/8), I think the 1/16 scale is most enjoyable, parts and details are better, and you can do more in regard to finess if you wish. None of mine were ever intended for anything other than personal satisfaction and enjoyment.
  22. I would like to see members posting some of the more unusual car models they have tried. Among my rarer ones are these 4, 3 of which I completed about 20 years ago. Brass is Best and some other members may prefer this vintage! The 1886 Daimler (who along with Benz is person zero in this whole sickness of ours) was a difficult build, very delicate, has steerable wheeels. The 1907 Itala "Paris to Peking" also has steering operated by the steering wheel via a gear box, but note in assembling years ago I inadvertenty put tie-rod at front of axle. I painted this one cream based on a museum photo, but most pics I have seen have the car a light grey. The 1912 Hispano Suiza "Alfonso" is a great kit, but steering is not by wheel. Finally, there is this Rolls royce "Ballon Car', 1/16 scale, which I started about 15 years ago and have not gotten back to since. In building these, I put modelling clay in every possible hidden space to add weight, makes them feel more substantial. I think all of these models were Entex kits from the 70's.
  23. viv w wrote "my advice to you before you go any further is to mount the body onto the chassis frame, and finish the bodywork on the frame. Yes, (or build a proper jig), but if you mount on frame/chassis, put 3/16" shims at 4 or 5 points along length each side and clamp lightly in place so nothing moves around. Before body is set on chassis, make sure chassis is perfectly level fore&aft, and side to side, both at front and rear. You can use jack stands and wood shim on the stands, but it is important that nothing is moving around when you do this. If you use this method, once everything is together, slight additional shimming (adding/subtracting 1/16" here or there) should enable perfect alignment of doors, hood etc. With these cars, the first order of business is to get the rad shell, hood and cowl aligned, you want a uniform gap at both front, back and sides of hood. Depending on method of bracing between rad shell and cowl, there are specific proceedures for this. Once that is done, then you work backward, getting the 2 front doors aligned/gapped (work both at same time). In most of these cars, the door edges are perfectly vertical at hinges, so you may have to raise or lower back of car slightly to achieve that. And finally the 2 back doors are fitted, doing both sides at same time while constantly checkng front doors stay in line. I've seen guys spend 2/3 weeks or more tinkering with these parts on 4 door tourers before everything is close enough to button up. Patience is your best friend.
  24. Great looking stuff Billy. I made about 100 pre-war plastic kits over the years, mostly Monagram, everything from Auburn to Bugatti, Chrysler to Duesenberg (A,B,C,D ...), sold them a few years ago to a serious kit collector who did not have any pre-war stuff. But I kept this one. I bought a 1985 Merkur XR4TI in 1989, wonderful car, same color as this Tamiya kit (actually the British Sierra, thus the sun roof an option not available in North America), and included a "bra" on front to make it even more excotic. Drove it and a later 1988 model for 15 years. Bi-plane spoiler was always a conversation piece with the younger crowd. The Tamiya kits I built seem to have better detail than most, and these have soft rubber tires.
  25. Further to my post above, here are some of my miscellaneous built models. The 5 "Revival" kits are 1/20 scale, mostly metal from their Grand Prix series, come out of Italy, some of these date to the 80's, nand involve quite a bit of time consuming work to assemble, mostly with 2 part epoxies. The Pocher Fiat is 1/8 scale, one of the easier Pocher kits, only 800 pieces compared to 3000 pieces for some of their kits. Same for the Wrebbit Mercedes which is all cardboard. The Bluenose Schooner is a internationally recognized symbol of our province, also on our national dime, built it largely from scratch over 10 years. Of course more recently I moved on to full scale car rebuilding, but the challenges are the same, authenticity, fit and finish.