Gunsmoke

Thanks guys, very stylish for the time, middle of WWI, although picture may be later teens.

So what have we got here? Was thinking circa 1920, but make?

Today I decided it was time to make some leather corners for the hood side panels, as every time I raise or lower them I have to be very careful not to strike adjacent sheet metal, cowl/headlights etc. Not sure what was there originally. As shown, there are very large holes, about 1/4"+ hard to believe they would have used 1/4" rivets? As well, the corners are not 90 degrees, forward ones are about 95 degrees, back corners about 85 degrees. So that means none of the 4 leather corners have same shape. So with a bit of patience, I managed to figure out a pattern for them, with front two a mirror image of each other. Since these are temporary installations (may eventually be permanent), I found some suitable slotted screws with "T" nuts in my misc box, (think they came from an old hockey helmet, used to hold chin strap on)! They are fine for now.

I'm sure most if not all members on here will agree that restoring a car has been an "unaffordable" exercise for years if by that you mean "a financially negative end value". However, those same members will tell you the reasons for restoring a car or taking on a "project car" specifically are many. It may involve a car that means something special to them (had one 50 yrs ago, or have had since new and it needs to be redone), or simply be a hobby (like playing golf another expensive hobby with no return), it may be working for or with a friend or family member as a bonding exercise, it may be a car left to you by someone special, or it may just be a bucket list item. For some (like edinmass), it may be as an expert relied on by other people/owners. Regardless, we all have known for a long time, always better financially (if that's your only measuring stick) to buy something already finished.

Great work! OK I give up, you win!

Ok, so lets summarize, RARE or RARITY of a thing is defined as "not found in large numbers and consequently of interest or value". So the key element is "small numbers". When it comes to cars (old, or even relatively new), it should be noted that the definition says nothing about the age of a thing. Faberge Eggs were valuable and rare the day they were made in very limited numbers for Russian rulers. Bugatti Royales or Atlantics were rare the day they were produced in only a handful. Other cars become rare by definition as numbers surviving decline to a very small fraction of original production, particularly if they are cars of wide interest. Like most adjectives, it is up to the user to decide if it should be applied. I'm sure it would be hard to find a rare Volkswagen or Model T, or just about any mass produced car since WWII, but just about any Duesy could be described as one.

Here is the standard vent I put on top of axle housing on 1931 Chrysler CD8. I think these are still available, I have a spare if you cannot find one locally.

Pretty well covered everything. 600W oil (not 600 wt or weight) is equivalent to about 250-300 weight modern formulas. Install a vent in axle housing, quite a bit of pressure can get built up in a rear end during long drives causing oil mist to be expelled thru inner seals, affecting both the bearings and risking getting out to brake shoes. Assuming modern grease is used in wheel bearings, it is not likely to migrate much unless polluted by oil from rearend. Finally outer seal is as much as anything intended to prevent dust and road debris from getting into bearings, so does not have as demanding a role as inner seal. For my CD8 I reused old leather seals. Thoroughly checked them for wear, and that compression springs were still effective. Should be plenty good for the amount of miles our restored cars get.

The local 'rubber" suppliers had some 1/2" thick reasonably firm product, gave me a 2x6 scrap. Hard to find proper gauge sheet copper locally, so opted for some solid copper 1/2" plumbing clamps, the reinforced end was perfect for back end of the piece. Bent to shape easily using needle nose pliers. Cut rubber pieces to shape, leaving them large enough to squeeze into housing but not too tight for wedges. Lined housing with some silicone caulk to keep pieces in place and vice put them back to shape easily, and a couple coats of paint and they work fine. Doors close with a nice thunk.

Yes, MOPAR spare side-mount hold downs. Here is one for my 1931 Chrysler CD8, measures about 6.25" long. Note the roundish slot on one end fitted over head of an acorn nut secured to fender bracket. Center hole takes stud and wingnut. Square rubber imbedded end sits against wheel rim. Appears your example may have been cut off at wheel end..

Got some lighter duty rad hose at Parts for Trucks in 1.25" and 1.5" and hooked up simply by using a little soap and water to slip them fully onto inlet and outlet on rad and pulling back onto engine pieces. Decided to tackle a small job, making a wedge/dovetail for one of the doors (one went missing during body work) and rebuilding the corresponding post-mounted slots. Rob in Maryland sent me a couple of "close ones", but hole spacing off by 3/32" and they were too large, causing them to strike post before door would close. So sawed the wedge off one and welded it to a flat piece of 18 gauge and a little filing makes for a good piece. slots are worn sufficiently that there is no contact with wedge as door closes. I pried one open and copper mating surface was broken and soft rubber worn as well. Will pick up some proper density rubber tomorrow and look for some suitable copper strapping, about 1/2" wide x 16-18 gauge. Unrelated, my Volvo C30 sprung a power steering leak last month. The local shop diagnosed the issue required a new rack and quoted $1700 for parts and $550 for labor. After a day thinking about it, decided if I can tackle a '31 project, surely a steering rack cannot be that big a deal. Had a friend pull rack, turns out one of the 1/4" hydraulic lines was leaking (rusted out and not visible until removed from car) and for $66, the local hydraulic specialists made 2 new lines shown painted black. Now just a matter of reinstalling with fingers crossed. If it all works, will save me $1800.

Just my opinion, but I assumed the keyhole slots you show are only on outer pair of cleats (and yours should be at back end of cleats rather then front end) and were intended to anchor the leather tie down straps which are also attached to a footman loop at rear of seat. Leather straps would gave a chromed steel end shaped to lock into the slot . At least on the later CD8's that was the case. As for those saddle thingies, not sure why they would only be on outer ends and why they are necessary at all. Don't see how they would fit into those keyhole slots? Unless they have a gizmo on underside not shown? Someone must have pictures of the complete assembly, cleats, saddles and straps.

I was facing this issue 9 years ago when I purchased this 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster. I had heard about the car from my Dad in the 70's and 80's, a friend of his owned it and modified it in the early 50's, but the car had gone missing for about 50 years. Dad's mechanic friend had bought it in a scrap yard, rebuilt it with a 1947 Cadillac V8, LaSalle transmission and Auburn dual ratio rear end, chopped top mechanism and windshield by 1.5", Electroline (aftermarket) headlights, 1935 International truck bumpers, '32 Plymouth door handles, '32 Auburn front hubs, 35 Auburn rear hubs, 15" wire wheels in front, 16" artillary wheels in back. Classic 1950's hotrodding aproach, use what ever is avaIlable and compatible. Body at time was good and gloss black suited it. A classic 1950's hotrod. When I found it in a barn in 1914, the drive train was with it (engine and transmission sitting at back of barn), in overall very rough condition. The decision I faced was whether to (1) rebuilt it as it was in early 50's hotrod mode, or (2) rebuild using a modern power plant (318/automatic) or (3) rebuild it something close to factory. Needless to say, no option would be cheap as Cadillac engine was in need of full rebuild, and frame had been modified in a manner making it weak and subject to twisting. I decided to rebuild the roadster to 1931 Chrysler CD8 factory specs within reason (I found a rough sedan donor car), but have always felt any of the 3 options should have been OK with most clubs. I did manage to find some photos of the car from early 50's with Dad's friend sitting with it, and at a car show in 1966, shortly before it was "barned". Picture in primer is as I found it in fall 2014with a set of correct CD8 headlights I purchased at the time. Ironically, I paid $400 on eBay for the CD8 headlights, and sold the Electrolines without lenses for $650!

Tom Laferriere posted these photos on AACA back in 2009 of a Model 75 I believe he was selling, shows some of what you are looking for.

Interesting thread, will be interested in seeing how you make out. Do you have any of the sheet metal, woodwork or operating window mechanism. I help a friend build a coupe roof for his 1927 Pontiac from scratch, all he had was the steel top piece seen here, and 2 pieces of steel corners his Dad had made up 40 years ago. These rooves were wood framed, and then padded and covered in fabric. Window did not operate, and he had something approximate made by a local window shop complete with rubber surround, made wood opening to suit and fabric stapled/fitted neatly to it.

I had forgotten how difficult it was to get the radiator correctly placed in these shells. As seen in photo, the rad neck has to be absolutely dead center in shell hole so the very tight fitting rad cap/ornament will fit on. Clearance is about 1/32". After a couple of hours (more like 3/4) of swearing, prying, and testing (while being very careful not to damage the ornament), it was finally together. now it is installed it in the car and secured loosely . Working alone, I assembled just the 2 top leaves of the hood and center hinge and with a bit of hassle fitted them in place with X brace, and bottom bolts of shell loosely secured. I then put side panels in place one at a time, steel hinge pin rods went in reasonably easily. Some final adjustment of fore aft/side to side gaps and then secured X-brace and lower bolts. Spent a couple hours trying to shape the lower rad shell shroud to fit in place between shell and chassis. As mentioned previously, this shroud was distorted and some repairs made to it. While I felt it should go on top of lower lip of shell, there does not seem to be anyway to achieve that. Best I was able to get is shape correct so it can be secured in some manner to underside of shell. While 4 self tapping screws might work, I will explore other options and plan to put a 1/8" thick rubber gasket between the 2 surfaces to make up the 1/8" gap shown. Next stage is to fit the rad hoses. Lower one is always a tight squeeze, but can be done with rad shell secured in place, red hose goes in bottom, must look for a black piece.. Upper one is a different story. Last time I had some help and loosened x-brace by an 1" or so and was able to get hose on rad and gooseneck/thermostat. This time I will instead try removing gooseneck (just 2 nuts), then fitting hoses loosely in place on gooseneck and rad, and then re-bolting gooseneck. More than one way to skin a cat!

There is no easy way to reply to your question. Libraries (or orgs like AACA) typically have 10's of thousands of books and 1000's of clients, so a clear filing system is essential. However, for a small personal collection, (say 1000-2000 volumes), I would file by a series of means. First separate Trains from Autos. If some are a collection of same books (I have 205 hard cover issues of Automobile Quarterly), they must be filed in chronical order in same area. Specific make books should be filed together. History of the Automobile or Train should be filed together. Soft cover mags or pamphlets file together. Next comes size issue. Over-sized books are always a challenge. I file those in a section in alphabetical order. You will need some bookends to leave space in certain areas for further additions. I like Walt's suggestions on larger file holders for small, loose and esoteric stuff. Finally you will need to type up a catalogue of your collection, noting title, date of publication, author etc (and perhaps a sentence on content), and where it is filed (cabinet 3, row 4 etc), and keep it up to date every time you add, sell, lose or give one away. As a final suggestion, when everything is initially sorted, you may not like the visual image of the collection, and need to juggle things around to make a pleasant looking display. I agree with someone above who suggested the key is to have a cozy spot, well lit for reading enjoyment, and a table where several popular ones can be left out for frequent reference. Good Luck.

Great looking body sitting on it's chassis. Your workmanship and attention to detail is exceptional. The body colors are very nice. Enjoying your thread and learning a great deal about final finishing process. While black was likely standard for fenders/aprons for all color schemes (assembly line efficiency) did you consider doing the fenders in the dark reddish brown? Personally I think it would look wonderful in just 2-tone. You did not mention, but for those who may be doing a similar body placing, I assume you had the chassis sitting on 4 jack stands and level in all directions (especially side to side) (avoiding any chassis twist) before setting body on and during bolting down sequence, critical to ensure against twisting of chassis and good door alignment(as well as gaps) due to one spring weaker than another, different tire pressure, etc etc. I also understand if using 3/16" canvas belting for pads, and steel shims, bolting down is to be snug not hard. An observation on these vintage cars is noted when you see the clearance between top of rear wheel and inside of rear fender. I suppose the rough roads required a lot of clearance, but the smooth roads of today would have needed about 1/2 as much, potentially allowing lowering center of gravity considerably, an approach taken 3-4 years later.

3rd post today is regarding hood hinge repair. Mother nature (rust)or a previous owner caused 1/2-3/4" of original center hinge to be missing. As a result, when hood was opening and closing, top leaves would slide forward onto top of rad shell by 1/8"-1/4". So had to make a couple of complex small sheet metal pieces and carefully tack weld them to limited ends of old hinge. Never like working so close to finished hood panels. None of this shows when hood is closed. When everything was put back together, I was surprised at the1/8" gap that results originally between hood edge and center stainless hinge. Of course this will be less obvious when on car excepts for a bird's eye view. May do some last minute body work on corners of hood pieces to deal with the odd little wear and tear of 90 years. Plan now will be to reassemble rad/shell and hood and place on car, hook up rad, fill and check for leaks. Then I'll attend to the final hookup of gauges, oil pressure, water temp, ammeter, speedo and fuel. Then connect fuel line from tank to pump, re-install battery and plan to get engine fired back up to see what next. Current schedule would see car painted over winter, fingers crossed, and only if I can sort out front fenders, only a small problem!

Took the radiator shell and shutters to my painter for advice on possibly powder-coating in chrome and black (green tape indicates sample pattern as per original 1931 CD8's). He does not feel they can powder coat 2 different colors on same piece, they have tried in past with difficulties around curing second color, taping residue etc. Recommends doing shell in powder chrome first, and then do black when rest of hood is painted, using a special paint. P/C Chrome would only need a light scruffing before paint. This would also allow any small imperfections (pitting, etc) to be smoothed before painting. With powder coating, no filler (for pitting etc) can be on sheet metal beforehand as cooking process will cause issues. He will at same time blast shutters with a mild medium and paint it with same black used on shell. I show photos of internal workings of thermostatically controlled shutter system, adjustable rod goes thru rad and secures to thermostat on top of engine head. Mechanism is supposed to have 2 light springs on either side of rod to snuggly return slats to fully closed as engine cools. Both are missing. I stuck a spring from the parts bin on one side to give an idea of what I need, they fit over notched pins, probably about 1/4" diameter, 2.5" long.

A couple of updates. Took the very good looking radiator I brought over from Germany to the only guy (he's about 75 like the rest of us!) within 100 miles who has the patience, experience and willingness to test, flush and repair these old honeycomb jobs. The core was fine, no leaks but the tanks had signs of fatigue(his term) and needed a few hairline cracks soldered. Tested at 3 lbs with no leaks, gave me some special rad seal powder to put in coolant when I refill it as an extra caution. I sprayed the tanks several coats of semi gloss, and did just a light dusting on the core. Decided to expose the copper manufacturers tag, not sure if it was painted originally. Reads Perfex Corporation, Milwaukee Wisconsin. I'm showing several photos to indicate how complex these are with the V-shaped top tank, hole for shutter opening rod, and the unusual side mounting sheet metal. Note the brass stopcock is perfect, works like new.

The problem of the cost of shipping used parts out of state is not new. I recently bought 4 relatively rare 18" 1931 Chrysler Lockrings for $60 from a NY state vendor on eBay. He refused to ship out of country, even to Canada. I'm about 1000 miles from him. so I arranged for him to ship 2/3rds of the way to an old car friend in Bangor, Maine, cost only $30 via USPS. While I contemplated driving across the border to pick them up, the 600 mile return trip was not worth time and cost. So I asked my friend to have them shipped USPS to me. Cost! $93USD. So the $60 lockrings ($83 Canadian or $20 each) cost $183US landed in my yard, ($245Canadian, or $61 each). Fortunately, border agencies considered them only valued at $60 and did not charge the normal 15% Fed/Prov sales tax, normally charged on imported items over $60. For those stateside reading this, it may help you understand why us out of country folks press for the lowest possible purchase price and shipping option.

H 28 8 is likely casting date, August 28 1928, so could have been for a 1929 vehicle.

I understand this was first year for accessory wire wheels on Roadsters, Chrysler/Dodge may have used same/similar bolt for later years. Any hex head 9/16x18 bolt of right length will work in meantime. I'm looking for a pair for my 1931 Chrysler Roadster, 7/8" hex head, 1/2"x1.25"x20tpi per chance anyone has a spare pair.

So many variables, sounds like a power problem, compression, timing, plug wires, a cylinder misfiring, ...... plugs, fuel mixture.....and a dozen other possibilities. My friend 80 YR OLD Larry would have it narrowed down in 5 minutes (classic fuel, electric, air, compression quartet) (may also be a clutch issue) but he is not available on Saturdays! The fact it idles smoothly and can be revved smoothly suggests it is a power issue to me, but I'm not Larry..