Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. Axle nut is 3/4x16 castle type. I have a spare if you need one.
  2. Regarding plywood floor boards in general, they should be made so that the grain goes from side to side (frame rail to frame rail) rather than lengthwise (fore and aft). Plywood is much stronger and less likely to flex in the direction of the grain. Like any composite material, the strongest and most stressed layer are the 2 outer skins, so always consider that and direction of grain in making pieces. Just a suggestion for future floor makers.
  3. I have a NOS Dodge Brothers, Six Cylinder, 140 Series, Operation and Care book, 72 pages, first edition, first reprint, mint condition, was purchased at Hershey in early 60's, never used. Can anyone tell me what years and/or models it would be helpful for, i.e. 1928, 1929 etc and specifically if it would cover the 1928 Victory Six models? BTW, asking $50 plus shipping. Thanks
  4. According to the pre 1934 Chrysler master parts list there are at least 12 different radiator shells for Chrysler cars between 1931 and 1933, including difference for 6 cyl versus 8 cyl, Chrysler versus imperial etc. So as suggested, a serial # or picture may help narrow down what might work. While the shells in many cases look very similar, the differences are subtle but problematic for rad neck fit, hood fit, fender fit etc.
  5. Somewhat related experience to share. When restoring my 1931 CD8 Chrysler I needed a good 8cyl block and head etc. Although the Dodge DC8/DG8 and 3 series CD8's used virtually same engines except for piston size (4 versions from 2&7/8 dia to 3.25" dia), I was told heads were interchangeable. I eventually found a good CD8 block (3" pistons) and CD8 head (3" pistons). Head fit block perfectly, and I had a NOS head gasket I had purchased. While bolt pattern, head dimensions, etc was identical when I bolted everything up tight and filled with coolant, could not seal properly. Took back apart to find the cooling ports had changed between engine iterations slightly, and holes in head and block were identical but gasket was different. Had to order a specific 3" piston gasket (took part # off an original), which luckily Olsen's had. Even they did not realize the gaskets differed between the 3" first series CD8 engine and the 2nd series CD8 3.125" engines. The photos show the extra coolant ports in the later iteration. I gather they experienced over-heating issues at back end of the early blocks/heads, and so coolant holes matched for first 3 cylinders, but by time you get to last cylinder there are several extra coolant holes. So be careful to ensure block, head and gasket match perfectly including alignment of coolant holes.
  6. Perhaps if you posted a photo of your wheel people might have a better idea of exactly what the '75's actually used. Chrysler used so many steering wheel variations back in the day, often with only minor changes. I do note parts book lists it as a stand alone, Model R only, part # 301717.
  7. I have this excellent steering wheel I believe is 1929 MOPAR, measures 17"dia, 4 spoke, no cracks or blemishes of any kind, all original condition, got from a long time MOPAR guy several years ago who said Chrysler/Dodge. I have it set on another Mopar column, box and controls from an unknown year, perhaps '29? Would polish up nicely "as is" I suspect. Note clear tape is holding woodruff key for steering shaft. If any interest, send me a PM.
  8. I sent you a PM/message previously regarding a 1928 Chrysler Roadster Aluminum step plate I have available. Check your message file and let me know if you can use it.
  9. As you know, the 8cyl Chrysler rad caps were quite a bit larger diameter than the 6's although they used the same gazelle. Many may not know that the first series of 1931 Chrysler CD8's came with rad shell painted body color over top of factory chrome with only the raised beading left in chrome, supposedly to make hood look longer, copying from L-29 Cord etc,. As emulated in my pictures below, I added some electric tape to look at overall effect. I also show the plain winged cap as well as a rough Gazelle cap. Since my car is a first series Canadian built car (based on serial number), I plan to have rad shell body color, and use the plainer winged cap. I understand customers raised a fuss about body color radiator shell and within a few months all shells were full chrome. TMI!
  10. I'd give my eye teeth (I think I still have those) for one of these for my CD8 Roadster. I see prices are all over the map on eBay for them, $150-$750 depending on condition. Will send a PM and try twisting your arm! I would prefer to find a plain CD8 winged base (without gazelle) in similar condition, seems even harder to find.
  11. Marty R said "ZERO to 60 in 3.6 seconds ??" Not quite Marty. Wiki lists the Tasmin 280 V-6 at 0-60 in 8 seconds. The 4cyl Tasmin 200 was 9 seconds. Still pretty quick acceleration, on a par with period cars like Merkur XR4TI, base BMW's, etc. The long "wedge nose" is classic for the era.
  12. A cousin of mine out West (Phoenix area) had a TVR a few years ago, said it was a great "sportscar", wishes he still had it. DC-8dave, as for styling, borrows some of the cues from Ferrari Testarossa like Sonny? drove on Miami Vice, pretty common European styling of 1980's (Giagaro, Bertone and others). I must read up on the Tasmin power plant, sounds like they may have been a sleeper. The car I saw was mint, stunning condition.
  13. Yesterday I slowly came up behind one of these, a bronze colored convertible, (like this pic off internet), didn't have my camera, had to get very close to figure out the make. Tasmin's are pretty rare car, never saw one live before, not sure year of one I saw, but likely early 80's. Cool looking sports car. You see anything rare or unusual lately. Keiser31 usually posts his spotted ones.
  14. My '31's Chrysler driver side only had 7 or 8 nuts with large body washers 9about 1.75" dia) securing to imbedded bolts on inner fender, no braces. Same generally for my '31 Chevy, only bolts and body washers, but it has a small short (about 1.5"x 4" long) curved extra washer/brace at top bolt. Was just 1/8' flat steel curved to profile of fender and replaced the oblong regular body washer, had hole in center. Not sure it did much, when I got car 12 years ago there was only one on pass side. The key to good securing of rear fenders is the large washer. Yours may have been oblong/lozenge shaped ones, typically a pressed steel cupped style, about 1.25"x2.5". Can send photo if no one has pic of real thing.
  15. My '31 CD8 Roadster had these 2 brackets on passenger side to support the rumble seat step plates. Wide one piece goes center of top of fender, has 2 bolts into a threaded backing piece on inner fender, and also is supported by one of the normal fender bolts. The second bracket goes on lower end of fender, bolts up similar to the other one, and has an angled outer bracket that mounts on out side of fender to recieve the step plate. While I imagine '28's would be similar, have never seen any. as far as I know, there were never any brackets on driver side for rear fender support, in my car's case, rear fenders are bolted to inner fender all around, plus to running board, and to gas tank apron.
  16. There should not ordinarily be any "oil" in these areas, and grease seepage from bearings should be minimal. However, if a rear end/differential is overfilled, or not vented, or vehicle parked on side slopes, oil can pass through inner seal and wheel bearing area into hub area. I installed a differential vent on my rear-end housing during the restoration, they did not have one from factory. It relieves pressure created as rear end oil heats and sprays (and creates an oil mist inside housing) during operation and helps prevent the pressure created as hot air expands from pushing/forcing oil into hub area. Got this advice on here a couple of years ago. Here is pic of installed vent. Drilled and taped a hole in location opposite of the brake fitting on other end of housing.
  17. If it is similar to those on my '31 CD8, it has a leather seal backed by a circular spring that maintains a small amount of pressure against the hub, just enough to prevent dust from getting into bearings, and excessive grease/oil from migrating outwards from bearing area. If you are careful, usually the spring can be gently pried out of place and leather oiled a bit to make supple and spring re-installed. Then take seal assembly and slip it on back of hub and see if it fits snugly at proper spot. If so, it should be fine. Remember in these restorations, most restored cars will have very few miles put on them annually and in typically favorable conditions, such as no dirt roads. Most could likely run fine without these seals at all. I do have a pair of spare used CD8 outer seals, but may not have same diameter as yours.
  18. viv W, yes after sandblasting priming and painting the rear end, I pulled both axles out to clean, check and re-install bearings. I also removed grease nipple and cleaned it as well and checked condition of inner seal. On my car, the backing plate acts as the bearing retainer, and I can likely use a .002/.003 feeler gauge to check clearance when the 6 bolts are tightened. This can be done before installing the outer seal. I must say when I disassembled all these 90 years old parts their overall condition was remarkable, no signs of wear, corrosion etc, the tapered roller bearings were near perfect. Grease was still soft but chewy, so new grease will no doubt be welcome. Leomara, you may find that star-shaped gizmo with the 6 holes is the outer seal retainer, does not have anything to do with the bearings other than trying to keep the dust out of there. The tapered part of the rear hub fits snug against it's leather seal (at least that's how mine works).Thanks VW.
  19. I too could use advice on this. I removed my CD8's rear bearings (except for inner race which is back-shimmed at factory for correct end play so I left it in place) checked and regreased them. In meantime, I sandblasted, primed and painted (rustoleum) both sides of brake backing plate, which originally would have likely only be painted on back side. Regardless, overall thickness is now altered slightly. I installed the backing plate and the "outer seal" retainer using the thin paper shims that were there originally behind the seal, but have not paid attention to the query leomara is asking. I assume you tighten the 6 bolts with no paper shims behind the backing plate and turn axle, if too tight, remove and add a shim and tighten again, and repeat until it seems about right.
  20. Here is pic off internet of a Model 72 Roadster rear deck. I recall a guy (DPCDfan) named Gary R had some of these for sale a few months ago (Dec 17 2019) among a lot of 1930 era Chrysler parts listed a 1931 Chrysler CD8 Parts. Check parts for sale section. Should be easy to make, but might have a groove around edge? Here is pic from his listing? Good guy to deal with, California I think, he could send you measurements if he still has them. BTW, I think these were bronze castings made many years ago.
  21. The 4 rear deck cleats were missing from my Roadster and are impossible to find (have looked for 5 years. closest I came is a set of unfinished old bronze forgings, guy asking $200+ shipping. They would have required a lot of finishing work, then chrome plating, figure a total cost of about $800 ready to go. Originals I understand were polished aluminum castings (or may have been chromed aluminum?). A friend sent me the primary dimensions. So decided to make my own, a piece of hard aluminum 5' long cost me $12 and about 30 hours of my time and here we go, about $3 apiece! I initially ran the 3/8" aluminum bar lengthwise thru a 1/4 round bull-nose bit router on the table, then cut the pieces to length, about 11.5". Next ran cleats end-wise on belt sander gradually creating about 1/16" crown on top of cleats. Since rear deck curls upwards about 1/4" near seats, front of cleats was next bent in a vice using male/female wood molds simply made on belt sander. Next countersunk holes were drill-pressed, 8&1/16" apart (must be done after bending otherwise bar would likely kink at bolt hole during bending). Next step included using the disk sander to shape horizontal ends of cleats and then angle grinder with sanding disk to bevel the ends close to a series of pattern photos (see photo off internet). Final stages involved cleaning up with 120, 220 wet, 400 and finally 1000 grit wet paper. The spacers would originally have been part of the casting, but I made them separately, they are about 3/8" thick, 1/2" flat sides, rounded ends. To shape them, pre-drilled a piece of bar with 8 -1/4" holes spaced about 9/16" apart, then cut 8 pieces about 1/2" x1". I strung all 8 of them on a snug 1/4" bolt (4" long threaded rod covered with sufficient duct tape to make a tight fit) and clamped the set in a vice and sized and rounded ends with angle grinder sanding disk and then block sanded with 120/220/400 while still clamped as a set. Plan will be to eventually secure them to underside of cleats with mastic of some sort. The originals had a slight taper (wider at top, easier to remove from casting mold), but don't think I'll bother trying that. Also outer 2 cleats hjad 3/8"x5/8" slot for top cover hold-down straps, have never seen them in use, so don't plan to put those in at the moment. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do.
  22. I've been in touch with "Doorsills", prompt reply, he can make 'em, just waiting on some info before ordering.
  23. I have same setup on my 1931 CD8 Roadster, and no one seems to have any good original photos of the back of seat mechanisms. My speculation is that the seat back was split. A 3 piece articulated hinge allowed the passenger side seat back to be raised off the bench (which was fixed) to gain access to the RS area (for example if it got locked and you lost the key?). Also perhaps to transport long items, like skies, poles, etc. For 1931, the driver side back was also hinged, but they connected to a device used like a scissor jack type to enable the seat back to be moved forward and backward up to 3 inches (bench seat was fixed). So I suggest that is what the hinges are for. As for a "barrier" between seat backs and rumble seat area, there was just a light clip on panel, much like an upholstered door panel quality. It clipped onto the back side of that wood rail. As much as I know. Someone (Matt Harwood?) sent me this photo, and you can see the lightweight panel, but in this case it is not authentic as you can also see the original proper clips are still in place on the wood rail. Again, these are 1931 photos, earlier Roadsters may be entirely different. My Roadster has 3 pressed steel braces running from tub down to floor/toe space as shown here. However, 1931's had all steel body so if your's is wood framed, setup might be different. Hopefully someone has photos of this seldom seen area. I should mention that since these cars were also built in RHD, operation mechanisms for seats had to be able to be flipped. Edit: I added a 3rd photo showing evidence of 2 hinges on each side of original wood cross member. I do note hinges on passenger side were recessed into the wood, but not so for driver side?
  • Create New...