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Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. I have a complete steering wheel assembly for a 1928/29 era Plymouth/Chrysler, has very nice wood 4 spoke wheel, all center controls, horn button, clum switch, tight steering box etc. $220+shipping. let me know if any interest. SOLD
  2. Thanks Narve, shows more or less how I plan to mount the spare. As for the car, not sure just how much CD8 is there if any. Cool racer tho.
  3. Such a timeless exceptional design from about 60-70 years ago! Many, including me, think Italian design firms had by far the best looking cars of that period, and perhaps ever.
  4. I am currently restoring 2 1931 cars, and more than the issue of "visibility" are the issues of noise and contaminants. While I have a 1.5 acre lot and am some distance from neighbouring houses (closest is about 60 ft from garage), I remain aware of the loud noise an angle grinder can make, zip cutters, reciprocating saws etc. I try to keep garage door closed when I can to muffle sounds, or do these chores on opposite side of house from closest neighbor. None-the-less, my neighbor has a new-born, and I talked to them and advised if at any time my noise was disturbing them to please let me know. A few months have passed and no complaints. As for contaminants, restoring involves all kinds of spill potential, oil, gas, varsol, lacquer thinners etc. Again care can limit this, but the odors sometimes are harder to control. Covering these issues is likely elsewhere in the ordinances, but common sense suggests be aware of your neighbors rights to "quiet enjoyment" of their property.
  5. Since neither car is a "sought after" collectible, the market place is just anyone wanting a nice older runner. You certainly couldn't restore/rebuild one of these for less than $20K-$30K each, but as I see it they are worth about $20K for both as is if he wants a quick sale. Tough market these days.
  6. Thanks Greg and Narve, I still have the luxury for a few more months to go in any of 3 or 4 directions re the front fenders and running boards, the only real changes I plan at the moment. I considered the Swig approach but figured it would be a copy-cat look and not as well done as his. Also considered an historic hot rod approach, leaving the as found 1950's setup, Cadillac/Lasalle/Auburn drivetrain and keeping the rest largely original. But it is a rare car and I felt should for the most part saved as such. Interestingly, a week after I bought the barn find I was offered more than I paid by 2 parties wanting to make a hot rod using only the body. And finally a custom builder encouraged me to go resto-mod, drop a modern rear drive Mopar drivetrain in it with modern electronics, discs all around etc. As we know from the many threads on AACA, there is no limit to what one can do with a barn find, only imagination, passion, integrity, money and time. I'll be 74 next spring, and would like to be able to drive this thru the summer. Fingers crossed.
  7. I count 72 spokes (24 outer, 48 inner), so that may be a clue. Bolt spacing may help further, likely from a pricey car, 1920's.
  8. In embarking on a rebuild of this rough but rare car, I've always stuck to the adage "do no harm". So as a consequence, the proposal I am planning will not prevent any future owner from going on to a "full historically correct restoration" without some alteration preventing it. As anyone in this hobby knows, making such a decision (go full restoration)for a rough but rare car can mean many, many thousands of dollars more and long delays searching for rare parts. Many parts for this rare car are virtually impossible to find, let alone very pricey if found. For example to consider historical restoration, I would need to find 4 very good fenders (about $4K-$5K I'm guessing), 1 decent running board for passenger side ($500 + rubber covers are not made by anyone), 2 more good wheels (about $500 min.), a correct windshield (mine has been chopped 1.5") been quoted $1000 for one in bare steel, correct top irons (mine were chopped 1.5") about $500 to remake to match original, a new set of correct oak bows (perhaps $1000), correct interior door pulls (I've never seen any for sale), correct front seat (with adjustable driver's back) and rumble seats (I've never seen any for sale), correct stop/tail light and stanchion (been quoted $2500 for light only), a correct Carb ($750 restored), a set of 4 correct rear deck cleats (impossible to find so far) and numerous other minor pieces. Then a full re-chroming of all brightwork, bumpers and wheel rings, a likely minimum $5000 job. Then of course there remains all the lower body patch work and the need for 2 fully functioning cowl side vents. the list grows everyday. When you tally up the further out of pocket expense to go "original" it adds up fast, perhaps $25K quickly. and that does not include body work, paint, upholstery and a few other finishing touches. So, I've decided someone else down the road may want to do that (so am doing nothing to prevent it) but I am doing my share to "save this piece of automotive history". I have married it up to a correct 1st series chassis and drivetrain, all of which are fully rebuilt, rebuilt gas tank and radiator, made a correct dash, collected all correct gauges, found correct outside door handles, rebuilt all 4 shocks, rebuilt suspension and brakes all around, made bows to match shortened top irons, etc, etc. So when I'm finished, the car should look great, yes customized front fenders, but otherwise a perfect candidate for some well heeled future owner to take to the next level. Just not going to be me. As usual, money talks.
  9. I've settled on the approach I will take in rebuilding the 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster. As some who have followed my threads know, the car came as a basket case barn find heavily modified, including having a 1.5"-2" chop to windshield and top irons, lowering roof line considerably. While Chrysler used a common platform (incl front fenders etc) for all its CD8 models in 1931, I always felt the large clamshell fenders didn't suit the Roadster as well as other models. So, for many reasons (scarcity of good front fenders, no need for 2 sidemount spares, no real need for running boards for these models), I plan to use a modified pair of rear fenders on the front as shown, and eliminate running boards. I plan to move side-mount spare (using one only, passenger side) back 6" or so, close to door edge, and also move it 4"-5" closer to body, sitting in a custom saddle mounted to a modified original wheel well bracket. This location allows more of the long hood to show. I will make custom side aprons running from rear fender to rad shell. I know some will say "why", others will hopefully be kind in their observations. The illustration records the proposed changes including a lowered roof line, and overall making for a lower/longer proportions. BTW, pulled the car shown off internet, best shot I could find for a full side view.
  10. I have the entire 205 issues of Automobile Quarterly (published 1962-2012, collectively likely the best researched and photographed general source you will find), including their 500 page publication "The American Car since 1775" published in 1971. I also have over 200 other hard-covered books on marques and automotive history in general. Taken together, they still likely miss some important aspects of the business or obscure information. Since the earliest meaningful automotive history as we know it began in Germany with Daimler & Benz circa 1885 (there were some other less well known early experimenters as well), any and most good histories will generally need to start around there. Ralph Stein has written several fine books on the subject, such as "The Treasury of the Automobile" published in 1961, "The Great Cars" published 1967, and "The American Automobile". All are wonderful reads. Others with good coverage include "The Age of the Automobile" by George Bishop 1977, "The History of the Motor Car" by Peter Roberts 1984, "History of the Motor Car" by Marco Matteuchi 1970, "A History of the World's Classic Cars" by Hough-Frostick, 1963, "Power Behind the Wheel" by Walter Boyne 1988, and a narrower but good read, "Runabouts and Roadsters" by Bob Stubenrauch 1973. Histories of the Automobile are getting more and more difficult to write/publish as one now has to cover about 150 years, a broad range of technological development, many different country's offerings, business, racing, specific marques, pioneers and hucksters, revolutionary advances and failures (deserved and undeserved) and on many such topics, debate still rages. Good Luck with your research.
  11. First car show in 53 years and picture of last one in 1966!
  12. Further pics showing work required to remake toeboard bracket and lower front door post, which will each eventually be welded to remade side-rails. As mentioned previously, the lower 4" of the entire body was completely missing when I purchased car, having rusted away or been removed by PO's. Even the doors as shown, need to have 3"-4" of incorrect work removed and new patch panels added.
  13. Update on progress: Having finished the chassis drivetrain, and installed the floor panels (including masking new plywood ones where old ones were), I've begun the process of trial fitting the body to ensure everything aligns. Put on one front fender and rad, cowl and both doors. Everything so far aligns nicely, and next step is to drop rear tub and rumble seat in place. That is made somewhat challenging as I have to mate it up yo the inner rear fenders already in place. As some may know, in the factory the rear tub was fully assembled including inner fenders and floor plan (spot riveted together) and then riveted to the side rails, spot welded in some places and fillet welded in others. Most likely a very precise jig was used to ensure alignment etc. So in continuing with the "reverse-engineering" approach, I will be bringing the tub down to the side-rails and inner fenders, using the doors as the reference point (once cowl location is nailed down and cowl is welded to siderails at front door post as per factory. Final step will be to weld rear door post to side-rail as per factory. Both the front and rear door post bottoms have flats and flanges that are ready to weld, just like factory. Since car was mobile, I thought It should get some fresh air, so trailered it to our club's annual car show. Lots of interest. More photos to follow.
  14. That should be spelled "1958 Simca Vulgar"!
  15. So here is where IO am today. After sorting out the chassis last week, I thought I'd tackle the body sub-sills and floor pans. After a lot of tweaking, I have the side rails very close to original. I used 18 ga steel to make inner fender pieces, which are part of body eventually, but are spot welded and riveted to side rails. So I am working in reverse up toward body. I pulled the rear floor plan from the CD8 Sedan "donor car, and it is perfect width and dimensions for the Roadster except I had to add a few inches at rear as Roadster body is longer over gas tank apron. All other holes align perfectly. Plan is to spot weld it to inner fender pieces and eventually mate it to upper rear tub. Many have helped me figure these elements out, Greg in Cal, Dave and Dave, Rob in MD, and my buddy Larry. Thanks all.
  16. When I found my 1931 CD8 Roadster in a barn in Oct 2014, it was in rough shape, after years of neglect the bottom 4" of the body all around was missing, having rusted away or been cut out by a PO. in 2016, David N in Maine offered me some rusty CD8 Roadster quarter panels which fortunately had about 6' of original steel angle iron sub sill. I understand Keizer31 also handled these precious! pieces in the past, they came from Oregon, about 3000 miles from me. Their details have been invaluable to me in understanding just how the sheet metal body was settled onto the chassis. Using them as a guide, I made a pair of side rails top match, which extend forward to about 3" short of cowl bolts, where back of fender meet them. More to follow, please read on.
  17. I'm guessing 1931 Chrysler CD8 for the steering wheel, here is mine, note three spokes, same controls, double ring around horn, grooves in rim, etc. Hub diameter seems smaller, so may be for the 6-cyl Chrysler CM6.
  18. More of today's car show photos. Although I'm partial to pre-war cars, this '59 Galaxie 500 Convertible was stunning, perfect inside and out. The Essex is an all original 10,000 mile car, including exterior paint which has most of its original pinstripe. 2nd owner.
  19. Thanks K31 and dc-8d. Yesterday I dropped the engine/trans into the frame and spent several hours assembling some finished components, like pedals, e/brake, starter, generator, plug wiring harness, manifolds and driveshaft, and temporary install of fuel pump, rad shell, steering assembly and F/R bumpers. All of that was to take the "rolling chassis" to the local old car show a mile from here. Not very often people get to see the "bones" of these old cars. I'll also post pics of a couple of other 1930's cars that were at the show. Hope to put cowl/rear tub on chassis next week and take stock of what needs doing over the next few months.
  20. After 2 days of cleaning and prep work, I have painted the engine/trans etc as well as a wide array of parts that came off it. Mentioned earlier that the 1931 Chrysler Blue/Green/Grey engine paint is not available so had this custom mixed based on paint remaining on transmission top cover. To make painting easier, I set engine on some wood blocks across chassis, plan to lower it in place later today. Transmission base/tower I think will eventually be over-coated in black, original appeared to be done that way from factory. BTW, I used the manifold gaskets covered with masking tape to cover mating area. Hopefully tape will come off them without pulling gasket material apart! May soak them in H2O before hand.
  21. Thanks for the advice, I did leave the seals in place to minimize that potential issue and when I got it back I removed the outer seals and checked for any fine stuff that may have gotten past them, there was a small amount due to my own fault, when I removed the brake backing plate and re-installed the outer seal, I did not draw it up tight to the axle housing stub, a gap of perhaps 1/100" allowed a bit of fine dust in. I plan to remove the rear bearings to get at the inner seals and check the pinion seal in next while and will further check for any grit that may have got in there when I clean and repack the bearings. Only practical way I had to get chassis blasted was as a complete unit, and so not much else could have been done I suppose except leaving the brake backing plates and hubs on. Learn as you go!
  22. Update: Rolled the completed chassis out of garage today, after completing install of re-arced F/R springs. I also needed one "silent block" which the local spring shop was able to access and press into spring eye. Overall, lowered car by 1.375", will make for a better overall stance, yet not create a "modification" issue (only you and I will know). The driver side fender bracket was badly mis-aligned (2" hor and 3" vert), car had been hit pretty hard many years ago, so I had to make a template of opposite side and heat it in several places to get it close. I have the engine cleaned and taped for painting. I don't have on-site" sandblasting option, so cleaned the non-engine parts (front yoke, bell, tranny etc)and de-rusted as best I could and painted them with spray-on Tremclad semi-gloss. Intention is to now overcoat entire assembly with engine enamel grey, and then brush on correct Chrysler color from a custom mix prepared by the local specialty shop. This is a bit of an experiment, the greenish/blue/grey 1931 paint is not available in engine enamel here, and something close (from Hirsch) is not able to be imported into Canada.
  23. Thanks to both of you esteemed gentlemen, I'm going to trial fit it on a wheel and confirm length is good and then get some made. Cheers
  24. When I got a pair of 1931 Chrysler CD8 sidemount brackets, there was only a single leather strap with the pair. Seems about right size and vintage, but is 7/8" wide versus slots in bracket which are 1&1/4" wide. Before getting 4 new ones made, I am wondering if anyone has an original they can measure for me? Thanks.
  25. p.s. chassis was painted 2 weeks ago before springs were removed.