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Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. I'm restoring a 1931 Chrysler CD8 and needed the 3 pieces of 18" flex brake hose, 2 for the front wheels and 1 to go to rear axle union. Found/bought a 3 piece repo set on ebay (Mopar-Direct, Andy B), and also found a pair of NOS hoses on ebay which I also bought (see photo of one of each). I noted that the new set was advertised as "made with modern materials". That got me thinking that there have probably been changes/improvements in materials and brake fluids over the 90 years, and that the older hoses may not stand up to modern fluids. I was advised to use Dot 1 fluid if I was going to use the 2 NOS hoses (they look more original on exposed front wheel locations and I also am using NOS rubber seals I have for the 4 wheel cylinders), and that Dot 2 might also be OK. But not to use modern Dot 3 fluid with these old rubber products (silicone content?). This is a new area of expertise for me, can someone confirm the best practice if I elect to use the NOS hoses?
  2. $0.00 would be a good deal IMHO. Unlikely anything there of "parts" value more than $200.00, so by the time someone unearths it and hauls it home and dismantles it, I'd be surprised if there is any potential to get your money back. If someone wants to make an old truck, there are lots of much better rolling chassis out there for circa $1000-$1500.
  3. I'd start with a thread chaser/die, any good machine shop should have one that size, and you appear to have 2-3 good threads to get it started. I've always been amazed at how a good die can correct such damage, and the main advantage is they do not alter pattern and avoid filing off excess material. A split die would be even better, but I doubt you would will find one that large. I had some poor/damaged threads on the ends of several of my 9/16" fine thread shock bolts. I cut a corresponding nut in half and clamped it on the threads with a vice grip (not too tight just able to turn), with bolt in my vise, and amazing how it cleaned things up. Machine shops have those long heavy duty handles to make the job easier.
  4. Appears to have mid-Twenties Bullnose Morris rad shell, the cantilevered rear spring treatment also suggest possible British roadster type chassis. Like many racers of the day, original builder may have started with an idea and built it from what was readily available or could be assembled with some basic mechanical and welding skills.. Nice project.
  5. Script looks like Jackson, but fenders not perfect match for 1913 Jackson I see on-line.
  6. It's the old "Queen Anne front" and "Mary Ann Back" adage. While no doubt the workmanship and effort is there, it remains a big misfit, 2 different styles, 2 different eras, 2 different functions (car or truck), who would ask for this? That Stude nose was never a hit in the late 40's/early 50's, still not. Thus the price!
  7. Interesting car in trees in background, looks about 1929/30, perhaps Chevrolet or Model A Ford.
  8. I cannot tell from your ask if these are (1) "sidemount hardware" (designed to secure the spare in place) or (2) a fender wheel well support bracket (designed to add extra support for the spare), or (3) part of an accessory spare wheel locking or clamping system. Picture in place would help. My Chrysler CD8 for example has twin sidemounts. The fender in addition to the wheelwell has 4 steel pieces on underside in that area to brace wheelwell to frame and accept hardware connections and locking mechanism. The side-mount hardware has the usual clamp & leather straps coming out of side of cowl, but also has a 6"clamp&wingnut on back side of wheel and a lock and bar going thru wheel spokes from outside of wheel and into a reinforced hole in wheel well. So a pic of what your part does may help. Based on 2 small holes and larger end hole, this looks like some sort of "securing" bar to receive a vertical side-mount rod or locking bolt, but purpose of 2 small holes is a mystery, and there does not appear to be any purpose to the S curved end except to perhaps insert into a locking hole. Make of Car? Why 6 of them?
  9. A wee bit of gender bias there Marty, just sayin'! But always enjoy your input to the forums.
  10. A number of years ago there was a report compiled on " Where is the best place to retire in the USA". The authors looked at a couple of dozen areas (or more) and compiled a rating looking at many factors retirees look for, cost of living, crime rates, purchase price for housing, climate, air quality, availability of services etc. If I recall correctly, the #1 recommended place was Tuscon, Arizona. One factor that put it at the top of the list was climate. It was considered tops for having a climate that minimized senior's health issues like asthma, issues with large temperature fluctuations, and the dry air was considered a big plus. Now I have no dog in this fight, don't live in USA, although I had cousins in Phoenix area. So you might want to look for such a report, I'm sure there is one out there.
  11. In my opinion if someone got that for free, they would not be able to turn a dollar profit no matter what they do with it. While a part or 2 may be salvageable, by the time someone incurs a few hundred dollars to haul it home and dismantle it, there is no margin, even if he is lucky to find a buyer for a door or a rusty rear box. JMHO.
  12. So knurled cap fronts work perfectly, so I am going to clean up and use the full set of knurled shocks from a later series CD8. I'll likely part with the other 4 "hex end" shocks, 2 work great (the fronts), rears need some attention, if anyone is interested, send me a PM. and thanks all for the advice/encouragement. Cheers
  13. Toe-in, draglink play, steering box slop, etc, wobble is usually due to some play somewhere that allows a modulated frequency to occur (similar to a wheel out of balance) and requires a slow down to stop it. I've never had to deal with caster on these old cars, but s'pose it could be a factor as well. You said "King pin play seems reasonable"? When front end is jacked off ground and front tire is grabbed at top and bottom and flexed vertically, there should be no discernable play. If noticeable play, you may have the culprit.
  14. Thanks for that PFitz, I wasn't sure which came first. Sounds like perhaps the CD Deluxe, the so-called 3rd series (which had a million changes from the earlier series), may have worn these knurled end units. The knurled front shocks have a different bolt pattern than the hex cap fronts, and I understand they were mounted to the rear of the front fender brace (instead of ahead of it) thereby making them more hidden. I must check the knurled fronts and see how they work, I could easily drill a couple of 9/16" holes and use them instead, no one will know!!
  15. Today I checked out the other 2 rear shocks I have, the ones with the knurled end caps both ends. Both work very well when filled with hydraulic oil (one was still full), good resistance in both directions, no leaks, even though sitting for many years. While they are slightly different vis-a-vis design/looks, mounting bolt size (9/16" versus 1/2"), and mounting bolt alignment (straight line versus offset), bolt spacing is same and lever arm length and end socket is same, so they will work fine. Only requiring slight enlargement of one mounting hole and drilling a new hole for the second bolt (I may weld slug in old hole). Interestingly, the offset bolt pair (with hex end cap) and with an S curved arm came directly off an early CD8 Sedan. The knurled end cap set came from Rob in Maryland and had very old tag reading "1931 Chrysler CD8 rear shocks, came off parts car with no body". May have been from a model 77 or similar model, who knows, I understand they were removed as parts decades ago. CD8's were subject to many changes over their manufacturing run from summer of 1930 to spring 1932. Since the rear shock is completely hidden up under chassis and behind rear wheels, no one is likely to ever notice difference from front shocks. I'll retain originals of both sets of 4 in case a future owner 50 years from now gets picky!!
  16. I never knew of this make Holmes. However, the Holmes name is a revered one in my ancestry, and I wonder if Arthur Holmes, who started this company is a distant relative. My GGGGGrandfather Stetson Holmes (b1753 d1824, and named for an ancestor of his from the Stetson Hat people) was born in Pembrook Mass, his family later moved to New Hampshire. Although he was a tea party supporter and served in the Revolutionary Army in 1775-1777, he did not favor independence. He married Anna Shurtleff (whose ancestry included Henry Sampson who arrived on the Mayflower), and eventually, as a British Empire loyalist, when NH joined the union, he moved his family of 9 to Vermont which remained a British territory. He became a selectman and prosperous business leader, but when Vermont joined the union in 1791, he felt out of loyalty he must move to Canada, settling in Cape Breton Nova Scotia around 1800, bringing 5 of his 9 children with him. The area where he settled became known as Homeville after this revered ancestor, and his children were instrumental in populating a newly settled territory. The small community still bears his name. I realize this anecdote is not car related, but I am always interested in making ancestral connections. Thanks for bearing with me.
  17. So today I tackled them. First the good news, I removed the fill plug for both front shocks and drained out the old oil which was in near perfect condition and almost full. Amazing considering these shocks have been sitting on a car for about 60 years un-used. I refilled them with new hydraulic oil and they appear to work perfectly, no evidence of any leaks, and stiff on rebound, less stiff on upwards movement. So they may be just fine. One rear was dry when filler plug was removed, but had full movement. When filled with oil, decent/acceptable resistance in both directions, but is leaking at shaft/arm seal, so will need some attention. The second rear was also dry, and it has only partial movement, when filled it has no resistance in either direction. We removed the valve plugs and the valves are clean and working, so suspect piston is seized in cylinder, so this one will need full dis-assembly. So about 65% good news. Will post some pics once I have one fully dis-assembled. If that job goes as easy as edinmass promises!! I may take them all apart eventually.
  18. Thanks for further dis-assembly info PFitz and for the DIY encouragement edinmass. Will keep you posted once I have one opened up. Have a colleague with a nice press, so he should be able to separate arm and shaft if necessary.
  19. Pfitz, in your original post you said arm needs to be "removed from it's shaft". I assume you also mean shaft has to be removed from housing (can that not be done without separating arm from shaft?)? If yes, I assume shaft is a press fit into housing, and can be pressed out after side plate is removed, using a vice or hydraulic press, etc. I'm still thinking I may drain these (by removing valve assemblies), slosh around some suitable solvent (like lacquer thinner), clean with compressed air, and clean valves, let them dry out, and try just refilling with hydraulic jack oil and see what happens. Would be nice if I don't have to fully dis-asssemble. Car they came off had 31,000 miles, so these were not long mileage units.
  20. Looked on Apple's on-line site, their posted price to rebuild is about US$350 per shock plus 2 way shipping, so perhaps close to $2000 for set of 4, yikes. Thinking it might be worth a few cuts, bruises and bashed knuckles to try it myself! May just clean them out and re-fill and see if any leaks. Cheers
  21. Thanks Spinneyhill & PFitz for the leads, I've copied the patent pdf info, good explanation of how they work, and also had a look at Taylormade's thread. His are not at all similar, more like the single acting shocks on my '31 Chevrolet. Between the various threads I should be able to figure out how to disassemble them carefully (not mixing up the small parts for example), and see general condition inside. Not sure if there are seals/gaskets etc other than under the end cap and access plate. I may take a couple by the local hydraulics shop and see if they rebuild them and price. BTW I have a second somewhat similar set that have knurled end caps without the "allen' head hex.
  22. Planning on rebuilding/refurbishing the 4 Delco-Lovejoy "duodraulic" shocks off my 1931 Chrysler CD8 project, one each for front and rear shown here. I don't have any literature on them, note they have a large "allen type" end cap. 2 large access screws (to get to valves?) and a smaller screw (for filling?).Also have a gasketed plate secured to side with 4 screws, giving access to end of lever shaft. Anyone have a "one-pager" on rebuilding/servicing these? or any other advice? Are rebuild kits available? I see Steele's sells the rubber grommets for connecting rods. These shocks were sandblasted, but have been dormant for 50-60 years or more, but arms move up/down. May need to apply some heat to free up screws/endcap. Thanks.
  23. 1928 Plymouth/Chrysler Wooden Wheel and assembly has been sold, thanks all.
  24. Gary-Ash, I looked earlier at S-W's book and specifically the 1982-83 GM Truck color called Black Cherry, #A-34-32350-Y, appears darker on the color chip than you show, but a nice color. I guess the Cherries get darker as they ripen. The OP photo has more of a Terra Cotta tone, red/brown/orange.
  25. I have paint sample books covering cars from 1949-1985, Sherwin Williams, Ditzler, CIL, etc. Maroons, Browns, Reds galore, a million different shades and names. Your color does not suggest Maroon to me based on a quick look at the dozens of Maroon variations, looks more brownish red. In 1983, S-W shows GM had an "Autumn Maple", A-3433075-Y and Dark Carmine, A34-30086-Y. If you wanted a real GM color close to this one you picture, the S-W QpexFleetx book for 1948/9 shows GM colors "Wiltshire Maroon Code#902", or "Commercial Maroon Code3933", and Mikado Maroon Code#802" and for 1941/42 they had "Rex Maroon, code 142&242". I suggest you look for an old time paint shop who might have older period paint catalogues, the chips are usually perfect, been kept out of the light, and will give you too many colors to choose from. Would be nice if you could tell future admirers that it is an original period GM color. JMHO.