deaddds

Nice design but asking and actual selling price may be quite different.

That 3rd photo of the speedster or race car is badass. It looks HUGE. Funny how he's still in a suit with a car with no fenders.

Also noticed the manual 1/4 windows. That seems odd with only front power windows on a Caddy?

Yeah I saw the Marlboros on the floor. Suppose it could still be non smoker car but used ashtray or fabric burns will be obvious.

Did they use real wood veneers in these cars or plastic looking wood? I really like the rear seat curved bolsters in wood look.

Those fit an Oldsmobile?

If it falls through I’d take them. Drop me a line. Regards Pat

Interior, engine bay photos?

That has to be a rush feeling that boat rise out of the water

I’ve had 2 quotes for my 1919 Olds radiator and both were just over 3K. Only difference was the one fellow when told the leak was up high said just use it unless/ until another leak occurs where it clearly effects the coolant level. That was a couple years ago and so far I’ve held off.

eBay has no desire to get it right. Actual common sense does not play into it. Just as many fees as they can get. I just got stuck with not only return postage fees but final value and original shipping fees on a part I was forced to accept as a return. Ad was for an nos trim piece and guy was upset the part was not sealed in the package. Huh? How did he think I got a photo of it on the GM package so he knew what he was buying? eBay dismissed this, sided with the buyer and when I questioned the month invoice with me getting jacked with these fees, they said since they ruled against me, it is a penalty fee to encourage me to list better! Now I’ve got that to fight out with the cc company to dispute it. So they will let it go and if a buyer actually gets the part and is happy, they make the commission. If he wants his money back with a bs sale, eBay has the sellers cc info and will bill it that amount anyway. Nice system right?

Uhaul has several truck sizes.😁

So my next ? is, there isn’t a manual for this truck with torque specs and such. The front wheel can easily spin so I think I have the castle nut and cotter pin pretty decent. However the rear is more complex. After the rim/brake drum/ gear assembly slides on the spindle and engages the drive axle, the Timkin bearing slides in and then this threaded special washer. There must have been a tool to spin it from 2 opposite holes. There is a dowel that gets lined up with another washer that can only go on one way, indexed to the spindle. Then the castle nut and cotter. Since the wheel really can’t free spin due to the axle and driveshaft friction, any thoughts on how tight to put the first threaded washer against the bearing and same for the nut? I will post photos of the pieces.

Got one side finished. Before and after shots.

I will donate my 1917 Olds as a pattern for you to fartknock around with to do the woodwork and metal if you really want to hone your skills. Of course Id like it back when your done.

Earlier today.

Yes, I saw that video as its the only one I found. I thought it didnt seem right either. I found some old timers near me that really know the prewar stuff and had the tool. It would really be a hassle myself but a buddy will make it go quick. It took probably less than 10 minutes to get it on. They pointed out the PITA is the stem was designed too close to the latch or it would have gone quicker. So Im on the hunt for the tool and can get the other 3 done.

I mistakenly measured the inner fellow. Where that tool will grip is 26.5". Anybody got one that big?

Edin, the tool looks pretty self evident but is there a specific technique I should employ? I dont have a spare rim so I dont want to dick it up. It looks like I hook one of the three a little in from the beveled end with the clasp. Plan is to slowly crank on the tool until it just slides into the rubber bead area and then slowly release it to align and turn the lock.

Yes its 25" across. If that tool will do the job I'll take it. How do want to procede?