c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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I restored a 1935 Chrysler CW Airflow with the 385 engine and it looks very similar to the truck engine....fancier of course but all i could definately see was the dip stick is rearward in the car but the block has a undrilled pad for the forward position dipstick....block web reenforcement looks the sam as does the high starter position etc...
Pictures of this 385 engine....
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You might hear excessive hissing noise from the modern air cleaner as you have no silencing chamber now.
Straight eights suck a lot!?
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There are two CB's on the steering column support brace back side of the dash....on all the NewYorker, Imperial and Town and Country's for 1950..
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That G80 series truck....a modified Imperial 385ci "8" and air brakes would be one rare find!!!!!
Isn't the 309 a seven main bearing six from the early Imperials ?
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Don't forget the clock fuse.....
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11 hours ago, Wallis said:
Just replaced my rear differential for Chrysler new Yorker deluxe Newport edition 1954 but seem to be unable to find correct differential gasket i tryed summit andy berbaum they kept sending the 10 bolt pattern but they dont line up did Chrysler make more than one rear end in 1954
You need the 11 bolt gasket..... as mentioned contact Olsen's gaskets in Port Orchard , Washington... good guys.
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This 1951 plymouth connecting rod and misc engine parts were buried back in approximately 1966 by my childhood buddies in their back yard to dispose of them.
They split the property up in 1995 and built a house.....doing the foundation and digging the parts up....... He called me up and gave me this connecting rod.
It was the very first engine work I had ever done! 14 years old!
I'm a retired mechanic and have done hundreds of engines since that one.... a nice trophy for me being lost for many years.
You never know what's under your feet or house?
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Generally all Chrysler Royal and Windsor "Spitfire" six cylinder cars1946-50 used the Carter Ball and Ball 1 BBL's. using the exhaust mounted "Sisson" electric choke.
E7L3 and E7L4 are the correct Cartyer Ball and Ball carb #'s for either a 1949 or 1950 Chrysler Spitfire Six with the Sisson Choke.
E9A-1 is the Carter Ball and Ball carb for 1951-52 Chrysler Six but has a built in choke on the top of the carb.... not a Sisson unit.
BBR's were not ever used on the 1946-54 Chrysler's that I've ever seen on cars or in the Carter Service and parts books.
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The Evans coolant sure has a strong obnoxious smell if leaking.
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3 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
The Cadillac that 46 woodie referred to also has the starter under the intake. Go read my post again. You do not have to remove "the whole top of the motor" to replace that starter. I've never touched a Lexus or Tundra, nor do I plan to.
I've replaced both.
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Have you done a Lexas or Tundra starter!
Under the intake and not a simple job unless you are a dealer hot shot tech.
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Good luck on that.
I think it's almost illegal to own one now days.
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You might try this....
I put the hood on my 1947 DeSoto today. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The springs are actually pretty easy. Here's how I did it. The hood was off of course.
With the hinge off the car, hang the spring from its groove on the hinge. With the hinge in the up position (hood open position) lower the hinge into place letting the spring hang down behind the fender. When the hinge is in place, loosely install the rear bolt. Allow the front of the hinge to go down behind the fender as far as it will go. You should be able to attach the bottom of the spring to its mount. If you are on the right side of the car, put the bend of your right elbow under the raised portion of the hinge (part that bolts to the hood) and place your hand on the cowl near the vent. Then with leverage you can push up on the hinge until the front hole lines up and install the front bolt. I did this by myself but if you have a helper it would be even easier.
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?????????????
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They show in my 36 Chrysler parts book...upper/lower oil control ring C7, C16 and many other sixes..
Not much if any value IMO. Complete sets yes.
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I'm not 100% sure of what that # is...658653...658663?
I have a lot of old Mopar parts books.
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You can probably jack the engine up 3/4" with out doing any trans removal...
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Buy one done as cost of restoring one will run your bank account dry. ^^^^^^^^^^
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You should join the National Airflow club.
I'm positive all the questions you have would be answered by those folks.
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How about a cold re-torque? I've done that too.
The head on a flat head engine IMO should be carefully re-torqued after the initial run in..
All the MoPars I work on are all mid 30's up through the early 60's. I don't want leaks or cracks?
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I'd say go maybe less after reading about@RichBad and his woe's too!
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I'd re-torque again... hot.
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1948 New Yorker 2 year road trip
in Chrysler Products - General
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Great job!
Appreciate you showing all your excellent efforts!