c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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I guess you should believe what you see on YouTube.?
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Was the starter painted where it bolts to the bell housing... causing a poor ground?
Did you tighten each wiring nut?
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Modern hard linings or soft woven....I did a 1508 with woven linings to correct erratic braking.
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That is so cool!
Wish I could cut an engine up to do that.
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You better check for cylinder taper.
If the cylinders have too much taper... over .010" the rings still won't be able to stop excessive oil consumption.
You need to also check the piston ring lands for damage and wear too.
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"When two incompatible greases are mixed, one of two things generally happens: the mixture hardens and will not release any of the oil or the mixture softens and releases all of the oil. In either case, the end result is basically the same; there is effectively no lubrication.:"
It's best not to just add more grease to a precision bearing.
Wash it out and add the proper amount of grease...should be good for a long time on the rear axle bearings as long as the seals are good and proper amount and type of grease is applied.
]Suspension components can be greased with most any grease as long as done at proper mileage.
JMHO?
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Me and my 1952 Dodge Business coupe I paid $50.00 for in 1973.
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Change the oil ... add some MMO and start driving it regularly ... the valves should not stick anymore.
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6 hours ago, keithb7 said:
I don’t consider myself a low baller. I’m an educated realist. A car with smashed windows in a field rotting for 47 years? Someone paying a tow truck to remove it could be considered a gift.
You are taking my comment wrong. I should have worded it better. Sorry on that .
I would bet your offer was more than fair for the market of a 49 -50 Chrysler NewYorker parts car in very rough shape which is very limited... condition probably a #6 or worse..
I am a low baller and have been for many years on cars and parts that I feel won't sell soon because of low demand or the items are just not worth much....Nice stuff I will and do pay full bore.
I don't ever want to tick off the seller either.
He might end up calling you back.. sit back and wait... keep an eye on the car and more than likely if the seller thinks it finally needs to go and he has your # he will call you. I've had this happen so many times over the years.
You might be done and over with it by now.........anyway
Good luck on it.?
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10 hours ago, jyinger said:
Any trick to getting the IGN switch out?
There is a cap and a hole directly beneath the IGN SW. Up in the hole is a phillips screw.. remove it. Then the rest is to remove the wires from the back of the switch.
Remove the firewall grommet , armored coil wire lead @ the relay or coil and remove the switch and armored cable assembly from inside the car.
The door lock removal is easier as long as the key fits both the door lock and IGN SW.
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Take the IGN switch out or a door lock out and off to the key shop.
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He won't have many if any buyer unless a low baller like you. He'll still have it for you to come back.
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The exhaust manifolds are valuable... intake not so.
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2 hours ago, lucky 69 said:
no it is all apart right know ,but it was not running or driving when i got it .basicly a project..but all parts and pieces are there .
Then I don't think you need to change anything to improve it.
I hate to say this but....
You will probably get in over your head and the car will end up on Craigslist like I see too often on these 1949-52 Mopars.
If you really need 12 volts put a front clip in it and a 440/Torqueflite with a Holley double pumper...will make it fast and easy.
Ooops.... and Scarebird disc brakes with a Cherokee rear end.
The M6 trans with FD... no one under 60 understands or likes them.
I'm over 60!
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Does your C 51 Windsor car look nice run and drive properly and or has it been sitting?
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Lucky for you... no crush sleeve on your Dodge.
Still prick punch your pinion nut, flange and drive pinion shaft to re-tighten the nut to where it was + a tiny tiny fraction of a turn tighter.
Install the cotter pin in a nice way too!
If you don't have an impact gun to remove the nut you will have to figure your own way to firmly hold the drive pinion flange from turning while removing and installing the flange nut.
I always install pinion nuts by hand to control and feel the install.
I use a professional holding tool. If you are handy you can make something up. If you just try blocking the tires and try to remove/ install the pinion nut the car will move up on the chocks.
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There is a small capped hole directly under the IGN switch on the lower dash.
A phillip's head screw holds the IGN switch in place. Remove the phillip screw.... pull the switch rearward out of the dash about two inches..but first remove the firewall rubber grommet that locks the armored cable to the firewall....then pull armored cable and switch through firewall and into the the car.
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Good riddance Sears... they wouldn't exchange a mis- packaged band saw blade a few months ago. I was a customer for over 50 years.
I threw the blade package at the sales counter as I walked out the door in frustration... this after after trying/asking begging to get the correct size blade... no dice ... it landed on the counter...the clerk didn't flinch.
I've never been back. The huge store is now gone after being there for over 50 years. It's being chopped up into little outlet stores that will come and go.
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Man...!
You've got more than plenty to keep your self busy for the rest of your life!?
Keep at it!
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The only 323 eight cylinder crank gear I ever found new was back in 1975.
I recently found a new cam gear and chain a couple years ago for my 48 T&C. No crank gear.
I'm always looking for these gears too. I've been into 1946-50 Chrysler eights for over 40 years.
There are two types of chains and matching gears.
They are a tough item to find as are several parts on these engines.
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You have to remove the five Phillips head screws that fasten the delicate fiber heater duct to the firewall first.
Then use a putty knife to work the duct loose from the firewall.
Lift the firewall end of the duck up and off and away from the heater box.
There are four bolts./nuts.... two of each that fasten the heater box to the inner fender panel. two 7/16" bolts at the front...two buts that retain the rearward band clamp at the bottom.
remove those and the complete box can be lifted out with the core.
The other way to remove the core is to remove the heater box side cover after first removing the top linkage.
I would try to save your heater duck if it is in very nice condition.... the replacements don't look quite like the factory ones.
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Chrysler Flathead eight and six engines used brass core plugs at the rear of the block between the rear of the blockand bell housing and also behind the front engine support plate when the engines were new.
This... as to replace leaking steel plugs as factory installed on the side of a flathead is easy... not the front or rear of the block. So I always use brass as I have seen way too many steel plugs start to corrode and leak... especially modern day Chinese core plugs.
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Were the points oily ?
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Idle speed at 450-500?
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1151914 upper grille bar - 46-48 Chrysler
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
1946-48 Chrysler center grille... two required.