c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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7 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:
Um, the charts show a higher torque for fine threads compared to course threads. e.g. 7/16-14 are 32 ft.lb while 7/16-20 are 36 ft.lb.
I use the values specified in the factory Chrysler,Dodge,DeSoto and Plymouth shop manuals when working on these MoPar cars...
Head studs with nuts are a lower torque value as shown on the six engines and also the same on the eights if studs are used.
On the eights
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Air in the system burped out.
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Some more things to look at....
Fluid Drive coupling bellows seal possibly leaking oil on the clutch..
You need to also look at the two input shaft bushings in the FD coupling ...check for excessive wear.
You also need to check for the alignment of the clutch fork to throw out bearing... there is a ball stud pivot that can sometimes snap off.
This will prevent proper clutch fork to release bearing operation.
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Pushed in....
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A picture of the style U-Joint your car uses would probably help others know what one you need.
There are two styles in 1953-54 Chrysler Windsors....
One style uses two curved bolt on clamps to retain the U-joint to the mount flange...I call them the bat wing style
The other style U-joint uses somewhat typical round joint caps that are retained by U-shaped retainer clips... the end caps have a slot or groove across them.
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Starters on the straight 8 Chrysler's can be troublesome after many years of service but.... check those battery cables! This if it cranks over slow.
They need to be thick... not cheap Chinese low strand count replacements.
If the cables are old, or too small I recommend using # 2 welding cables made up with commercial grade terminals.
But first as mentioned some proper tests need to be done...voltage drop/ amp draw etc.
Your Chrysler starter is a tough one to find parts for... even for the re-builders so don't just assume that's the trouble. You'll have more when you find out how expensive that starter repair can be or if you even find parts say like a solenoid. That alone could be 3-$400.00!!!!
Don't throw parts at it. This from a guy who has had and still does own several 1946-52 eight cylinder Chrysler's.
Good luck... you will get it fixed!
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Set the E-brake or hold the brakes on...Push the clutch pedal in, shift the car into 3rd... bump the starter and see if it will brake loose... the clutch disc that is... That's how i do it.
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Roberts, Bernbaum or Neil Riddle will have that rubber bushing.... Google them.
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I had a sleeved wheel cylinder that leaked between the new sleeve and cylinder.... not too common.
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Actually that is for a 1949-1950 Chrysler 4 door sedan ash tray. it goes on the back of the front seat.
It came in different colors. I have both tan and blue colors with the Chrome lid.
That 1296314 part # came out in 1949 for MoPar.
1951 and 52 Chrysler had a ash tray that flipped out when you pulled it open. Not nearly as nice looking as yours.
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Master cylinder piston returning 100%? Are the rubber M/cyl cups blocking the return holes?
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Beautiful original C38 and C39 sedans!
The T&C looks nice too.
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There is the "B" pillar as noted on both the 8 passenger sedan model and the limousine'... some can be removed ''
I am not sure that there is a divider window on any model of these low line Royals.
626 Royal 8 passenger sedans were produced....169 Royal limousine's were produced.
I don't think eithermodel of Royal would be money wise to restore as the Royal is the lowest end Chrysler.
A 1946-48 Crown Imperial limousine sedan might be worth the investment if all there and not rusty. That's a big might!
Years ago I saw a nice original sell for in the $90,000.00 range . Does not mean that's what one of those eight cylinder Imperials is worth that!
Some pictures of Royal LWB cars...
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??????????????????????
More info needed..
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I looked the serial # up in the W-series DT parts book...
Looks to be a 1946 WC.
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Studs and nuts are generally torqued less than head bolts.
This because the bolts are course threads into the block.
The studs are fine thread at the top end with the matching fine thread nuts.
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That car ad lists my old neighbor hood dealer where I used to buy parts from back then... S.L. Savidge... down town Seattle
Evidently it was a painfully slow Nissan six. oh well very rare!
I just read a bunch about your car ....Great story on your Dart.
Some info on it...http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/articles/Diesel_Dart.pdf
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Door panel slides up complete with arm rest.
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I'd use the flat brass plugs... 1-5/8". I use a special miller drive tool for these plugs as I do so many.
I'd say carefully clean the block bore recess then pound them in with a blunt ended 1" steel round bar. The steel has mass to help drive the plug near flat and expand it enough.
The ball peen with another hammer works too but IMO sometimes does not expand the plug enough and they can blow out.
Seal em with Permatex hardening # 1 .
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I've done several Mopar flatheads while running...no danger nothing exciting happens.
Just keeps hands and wrists away from the hot manifold.
If the truck has the original engine set the valves to the factory specs.... but .002" wider won't hurt it at all say for heavy use..
Just don't set them too tight.
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1946-48 Chrysler passenger side high note horn
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I'd take the 1951 Plymouth 3 passenger Concord coupe... looks like an original car... door panels dash etc.
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Two styles of dash controlled water valves were available on the 1946-48 Chryslers... depended on which model of heater/ heaters the had.. IE #36, 53, 54, 55 etc.
One was a brass single outlet and used for single heaters the other a aluminum dual outlet valve for dual heaters and also used with under seat heaters.
Base heaters did not use a dash controlled water outlet valve.
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Head bolt torque specs for '31 Chrysler Straight 8
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
I will say this...
I know a person who has a C2 Airflow. .
It had the 323 Straight 8... he torqued the head nuts to 70 lbs.( 7/16" X 20 studs and nuts)... head replacement...
On the middle to rear drivers side of the block slightly below the studs a 3" long crack appeared a couple weeks later.
The over tightened studs pulled up the top deck of the block.
The block since has been "Lock-N-Stitched and now is fine.
I'd be careful especially on the old engines so as not to over stress the castings... JMO.?