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Posts posted by c49er
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On 2/4/2019 at 6:17 PM, 61polara said:
,WRONG. Check your shop manual. These are not GM brakes.
He might be talking about these retainer springs used on the heavy chassis Chrysler brakes... eight cylinder and wagon 12" brakes ...they are similar to bendix brakes...
There is a pin, rubber inner insulator, steel tube sleeve, spring and retainer cap.
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The reverse adj. on early M-6 1949 -50 Chrysler transmissions can be located either at the transmission shifter cover of at the shift rod at the fire wall...
If you over adjust too much one way or the other you will not be able to get reverse or too far the other way no forward....just remove the excess slop in the rod... no more.
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The 1949 Royal Woodie arm rests are covered with Tolex and are shaped different. So no they are not the same.
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Better join to get what you need.....http://www.rv-coach.com/current_category.181/Forum.39964/forum_thread_full.html
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I spoke too soon..... the seal you show is the OE correct style.
I thought mentioned was the later two piece as I mentioned...typical front crank seal with a separate external felt dust seal pushed into the back of the pulley.🙄
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No slinger or Felt seal is used on the Chrysler Straight eights.
They don't leak with a good pulley hub surface and the correct seal.
The felt washer was used on the 1953 on up 23" and 25" engines if the crank pulley had the recess and prongs in it to hold the felt dust seal from rotating in the pulley.
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Awesome!
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The "Town and Country" is a Chrysler built luxury car built from 1941-1950. All massive exacting fit and finish woodwork.
The Chevrolet "Country Club Kit" was a a wood overlay kit to imitate the Ford Sportsman and the T&C Chrysler's.
It does look good.
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lets see pictures of some of these parts....
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In 1968 Ralph opened up a new Chrysler Dealership (North Seattle Chrysler Plymouth) a couple miles from my N. Seattle parents home.
I was 16 then and had my 51 Plymouth. So of course I'd have to go in there and check out the cars and parts dept.
His loud crazy ads were on TV with him and his dog Storm.
Oh those were the days of good TV ads..
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I use use weight of oil that makes the oil gauge happy. Over all higher the better.
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The replacement Lockheed style cylinders now mostly all made in China are made incorrectly position wise and with all different types of piston depths and piston rubber cups..
This can cause the need for a shorter push rod.
Also too thick of shoe lining can be an issue on these old Mopars...... .185" max thickness on lining...... and linings need to be arc'ed to fit each drum...
A lot of things people need to know when working on these old Mopars and to do them right need some special tools or drive em till the shoes wear in to the drum shape and keep adjusting brakes till finally seated in 100% then they are awesome brakes and work extremely well.
Asbestos linings are the best for service but I will not go there.
Some pics of all these issues...
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1956 would be a 12 volt model of that clock.
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1955 DeSoto...
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Hope it's a Mohawk 2 post.
That would be a super steal other wise not so.
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R&R 'ing front coil springs on a 4 post is a snap using rolling jacks..
...raise the front of car off runways with rolling jack..pull tires..(jack positioned rear of front wheels) leaves work area wide open)
...set 8" X 8" block at outer end of lower A-arm..lower car down on blocks
..disconnect lower ball joint or knuckle support lower pin bolt and nut
..loosely safety chain spring to lower control arm for safety
.. raise front end of car till springs are loose ,
....A-arms hanging down .. remove spring/springs.
With two rolling jacks it's even easier.
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I too don't get how hard it is to work on cars with a 4 post. Sure you need rolling jacks (2) IMO.
I have done FWD axles, suspension, engines and trans on my 4 poster. Plenty of room between the runways for work unless a cheap import lift.
I have a real nice work pit below my 4 post lift and it is a hassle to work out of compared to the 4 post lift above it... like doing an oil change.
I also have a single post lift I have used for years.... good for wheel and brake work and some trans work.
2 post lifts when pulling engines/trans axles... changing the car or truck balance weight when doing so can be very dangerous ..requiring careful placement of support stands
Some classic open cars being lifted on any make 2 post you will see the doors pop or some times coming open!!! I always open the doors on any convertible on any 2 post lift so not to damage door latches or strikers if the frames do flex on a 2 post....
4 post no issues ...
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Doug Seybold..
Just got one for a 1941 Buick from him....
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hcc/2009/12/Doug-Seybold/2487571.html
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Look kinda cheap on a high dollar car. Looks like all plastic?
Vintage look metal housings would be nice.
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Need both rear Town and Country hardtop brown rear arm rests (2)... T&C Newport or NewYorker Newport 2 dr hardtop.
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I have two 4 posters ... total both 40" long.
Dual sliding jacks... a Rotary 12,000 lb and a BP 14,000 lb.
I have done engines, transmissions, exhaust and suspension on them...... 20" wide ramps /runways... widely spaced runways .... quick and safe on and off... very safe and stable
I have seen cars fall off two post lifts like I show below as I was driving to work one day....I do use two post lifts ... 4 post for my personal use with rolling jacks.
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Some more info...
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Mopars...1956
41 Packard polarity problem
in Technical
Posted
A good Packard does not need a conversion to 12 volts.....hackers.