c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Be careful pressurizing these old MoPar radiators-the chrysler was maxed out at 4 lbs pressure. You get it tested at too high a pressure and you will find a leak- a new one!
Bob
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Here are a couple pics.
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Your measurements are exactly the same as my Edmunds dual carb Intake for the Chrysler flathead 8.
Bob
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The fluid coupling is accessed/filled through the oval plate held with 2 phillip screws on the floor hump-pass side. Then under that is the round 2" plug on the bell housing that gives access to the 3/4" fill plug on the fluid coupling which is very slow/difficult to fill. If it needs fluid more than once every in 5 years of service of any amount it (the fluid coupling seal/bellows or graphite ring assm.) needs to be fixed! If the coupling is low on fluid the car won't move too well if any.
The trans is filled through the fill plug on the passenger side with 10W as in any standard transmission. If it is low it won't upshift. This M-6 transmission is not connected hydraulically to the fluid coupling in any way.
There is another system used on chryslers with the M-6 trans called "Fluid Torque Drive" referring to the coupling unit updated to a Torque Converter for improved acceleration-this design is much more complicated and somewhat prone to trouble. I assume you don't have this setup. If you do we need to start all over!
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There is no front input shaft seal on the M5/6 transmissions. Sure he didn't mean the rear seal? As Rusty says-possible high idle can cause a no or delayed auto upshift. The 2 Fluid drive input shaft "Oilite" bushings could be worn/damaged causing the input shaft to keep spinning even with the clutch pedal depressed and cause a grinding reverse. You need to check clutch pedal free play- at 1" or abouts.
Bob
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Check trans 10W oil level and worn motor mounts/ shifter linkage.
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I'm not exactly sure on a 48, but on 49-52 models the heater was located under the hood. It was a black box that sat on a shelf on the right inner fender. The heater hoses ran to it, there was a blower fan beside the rad, and a cardboard duct that took the hot air to the interior of the car. There was also a valve or temperature control on the firewall that the heater hose ran to.
Possibly this is the fixture between the rad and engine you refer to?
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Update: I did a quick Google search and the 48 Chrysler seems to have a different arrangement with the heater behind the firewall. So the heater theory seems to be shot to blazes.
The heater or if dual heaters are mounted under the dash for all 1941-8 MoPar cars.
Bob
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On a 1948 Chrysler there are no Fluid Drive hoses to the radiator. Maybe you are referring to the heater hose connections either at the rear of the head or at the top of the water pump. Only on 1951 and up Fluid Torque Drive cars, they do have a oil cooler up front connected to the engine from the TQ. You car won't have this.
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There is or was a restored 1951 New Yorker wagon in Spokane Washington. Real nice car with MoPar wires on it. Red lower-upper beige top. Years ago saw a beige 1951 NY wagon here in the Seattle area- it disappeared one day. Maybe it's the one in Spokane!
Bob
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WOW, That is a nice wagon! They usually are so rusty!
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The trunk handle is retained to the big die cast housing by a crimped 7/8" tubular retainer ( you will see (2) 1/4" depressed crimped spots- they keep the sleeve retainer firmly holding the handle in place, it's down inside the large housing just below the 3/8" square shaft. If you can get at it use sharp jawed pliers to twist this round retainer 90 degrees then use a rubber mallet and tap the handle out of the housing. If you cannot rotate the retainer just carefully and firmly tap the handle and sahft out-it's the only way. Have done lots of MoPar door and trunk handles like this. There also is a wave washer under this retainer sleeve to keep the handle from being sloppy . Putting it back together is another story-use a setup to force the sleeve and wave washer down firmly with a deep socket or piece of tubing and use JB weld to hold/ glue the sleeve permanately in place as you cannot replace the sleeve with a new one. Also it's hard to re-crimp the sleeve tightly as done by the factory back in the exact same spot. JB weld or a Devcon product works 100% to hold the retaining sleeve..
Bob
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I have quite a few Chrysler products 46-52 all the antennas are on the left fender or left side cowl
Jay
As are all mine-antennas on the left front fender or cowl depending on the year. Up to 1948 on the cowl after on the fender.
Bob
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Autolite parts book shows CR-4001 for 46-8 8 cyl. You might try seaplym on ebay who might have a NOS coil.
Bob
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#1123522 for early cars-8 cylinder conv T&C engines. 1300667 for after early # 8 cyl engines. 4 door T&C 6 cyl. engines are a different . Any 6 volt coil will work but you need to modify the bracket and change the coil lead end to make it work. I have had failure issues with NOS OE Solar Spark coils not lasting. I now use modern day good quality 6 volt coils-USA made for my MoPar flatheads myself and use the original brackets. A lot of work though. Don't know why so many part#'s though. Maybe Joe can educate us on this issue.
Bob
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I am so happy to see the results! I won't have cancer now after years of restoring these old chryslers!
Bob
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I've had 2 Misco's, a Leica and now some $90.00 refractometer from who knows where. The genuine Misco's have a optional battery operated back light which is very nice. My Leica brake fluid testor died from fluid getting inside even though I always wiped it dry. I bumped/dropped the Misco and it got out of calibration after 4 years.
For less than a $100.00 you will probably have to get a Chinesey one. The good big brand ones are $145.00- $300.00 and more! Refractometers are the way to go as you can check battery electrolyte charge , and both types of ethylene and propylene antifreeze.
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Sorry but they are not a part that commonly needs replacement.
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I've done lots of parts/junk car engine starts- 1st make sure cables and starter are there. Pull plugs dump oil down cylinders. Install strong 6 volt or 12 volt even better for use on a parts car, if no key hot wire starter-if starter just clunks with a thud-engine is severely stuck-go no further with trying to get it to run. Way too much trouble. If it does turn over freely do compression test-they all need to be even and close to at least 100lbs for it to sart and run decent, then continue with your plan to get it to run.
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If it doesn't leak now I'd definately leave it alone. Have seen a couple people think they should change the fluid- after the change the graphite ring and bellows seal leaked!
If it is low on fluid use the info Rick stated. Never use ATF! Fluid drive couplings that don't leak IMO should be left alone- just check that they are full.
Bob
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If the engine is that stuck- time for a complete rebuild to do it right! BTW to force a engine to turn over use the flywheel teeth with a large screw driver to turn it over, way more leverage there that the crank nut. Looks like the rings/pistons are rusty as are the valves-way bad!
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I have done this repair quite a few times on the MoPar flatties. I use a Oxy/Acetelene torch and heat the remains of the spark plug red hot really quickly -and insert the proper easy out and they always back right out! Always. I have done this probably 10-15 times too on core engines. Now with the ceramic still stuck in the base of the plug you probably will have to pull the head. I take it this engine has sat not running for years for the plugs to rust away that badly. If so some of the valves are probably stuck too. Thats been my experience.
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When did Chrysler Corp make a six with seven mains? They made a 198 CI slant six but it had 4 mains. Every flathead six I have seen, had 4 mains.
All the big Dodge truck Moly block flathead engines for the trucks had 7 main bearings. At least from 1940 through 1956.
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I agree with Rusty_OToole and DeSoto Frank--- Keep it 6 volt. V-8's and 12 are the easy way out now days. Make sure you have BIG proper high quality 6 volt battery cables-not those skinny little 12 volt cables. And get the factory shop manual and learn from it how to keep your De"Soto" running properly. They are a joy to drive in the stock form too!
Bob
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Thanks for replies....Apparently, the transmission needs non-detergent 10W oil, but the torque converter uses hydraulic tractor fluid which I found at the local farm supply store. One suggestion for the transmission; drain old oil, remove and clean the filter screen which is at the rear of transmission. secured by two bolts.
There is no "torque Converter"- Only on 1951 and later certain cars---Just a fluid coupling on 1950 and back cars. Also the round filter tube screen is only externally removable on the M5 1948 and back cars . M6 cars1949 and later you have to remove the rear extension housing to gain access to that filter screen. Normally it never needs servicing unless other trans work is required.
Bob
d-ancer
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
You don't need 12 volt if you are keeping it stock. Stock works well if maintained properly.
Bob