c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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The M-5 "Hydraulically Operated" trans needs no cooling... it's what it is and there is no way to plumb it for cooling. It will be fine.
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It will be interesting to see how the straight 8 pulls that trailer.
Keep us informed!
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Tough to find good tight ones.
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A 265 out of a 1952-54 Chrysler should already have a "Spitfire" head.
If it was a 1953 up Dodge 2-1/2 ton truck engine 265 it would not have the "Spitfire" head.... just a plain head.
Compression ratio for the car 265 ..... 7.0
" " for the truck 265 ......6.8
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Just remove the BIG 1-7/8" FD clutch plate nut-bend over the metal locking tab first...... this opens up the area so you can remove the upper and lower bushings.
Be gentle when handling the Fluid Drive unit as there is a copper bellows seal that is flexing a bit now that there is no main shaft installed into the FD unit holding the clutch driven plate firmly in alignment.
If you have access to good tooling ....Snap On, Kent moore etc.. use the correct bushing remover to remove the deep smaller diameter bushing and larger upper "Oilite" bushings. You won't find the original factory Miller Service tool.
So If you don't have the proper tools you can use two accurately sized wood dowels that fit the bushings or steel round stock.
You pack thick grease or watered bread down into the bushing... fill it full with no air pockets to top of the bushing being removed.
Pound the wood dowels or round steel rod down into the bushing till it pops up and is loose. Might require a refill or two of grease.
To find the correct bushings try Roberts , AMS Mopar or Andy Bernbaums.
Install the new bushings with a proper fitting drift.
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I guess he doesn't really need much help👎
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Is the front driveline yoke bushing fit worn /loose/wobbly even the slightest... that could cause a vibration at the rear of the trans especially with that heavy weight....
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Can you post a picture of it? Is it a 2 bolt exhaust flange?
Shipping could be very expensive as it needs to be packed in a wood box as it's kinda delicate and long..
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Knock some core plugs out to do a proper flush... get it all out.
Flush the heater core and rad separately.
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It is supposed to be a light tan... as for color code???? Don't know...sorry
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Easy to search if he has parts...
Enter your MoPar part# if you have it and it might show he has it.
He has a lot of parts. Huge building full.
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Len Dawson only carries clean good quality NOS Mopar parts. No junk worn out used parts.
I've bought from him for over 30 years.
I've been to his warehouse... super clean and very well organized.
He is in his 80's now. Generally he doesn't deal over the phone.
Deception pass Motor Parts
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I used to work on those cars when relatively new....not a very well built four cylinder car...
I think most scrapped.....engine and transmission issues.
Hope your dream of finding one comes true.
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I know exactly what it is....that's why I took a picture of it.
Someone else must know... if not I will tell.
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This is a wet melt down...
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Frozen clutch disc again...cold damp weather?.
With the engine off... wheels locked/blocked... put it in 3rd... push clutch in.... try cranking over starter.... if the disc was the issue it should quickly break free.
Heat, moisture, freezing can stick a clutch disc if the engine didn't get hot enough to heat soak all parts.
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No... Plymouth is different.
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I went through both my 1953 and 1954 Chrysler Shop manuals to understand this proper lube of the spline joint...
The 1940-52 Chryslers use grease on the splined slip joint. A grease fitting is on the splined yoke on the early cars.
The 1953 and 54 Chrysler made a change to lube as you have made me aware of....
Thank you on that.
Some info out of both the 1953 ad 54 Chrysler Shop manuals..
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No gear lube oil is used on any old MoPar center driveline carriers except maybe the 30's cars...BIG CW Imperial Airflow, LB Chrysler's CG's etc... see photo...
They take up to 2 pints of lube oil.
Also shown are the 1954 Windsor Six Chrysler "Winged U-Joints"....... very hard to find.
You can see the slip joint threaded cap and in the middle you can just see the excess grease bleed off hole...
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That's because the reverse/forward shift linkage adjustment is changing as the car is lifted... loose worn engine mounts are likely the cause but..adjusting the forward/reverse linkage rod and taking out the excess slop should fix this. As mentioned in the other thread already posted.
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A good Packard does not need a conversion to 12 volts.....hackers.
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Plymouth Suburban
in Plymouth
Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)
Split rear upper tail gates W/ 2 pieces of glass are 1949 plymouth wagon only.. 1950 plymouth uses a 1 piece rear glass like 1951 -52.
It's for sure a 1951 or 52 as mentioned'..... hard to tell with out any factory trim on it .
1951 instrument gauges have a black back ground.... 52's use a light gray back ground. ....if they are even in the car.. that will ID the year correctly.
P-23-..... is the original engine # above the generator.
Looks the be the cheaper line wagon- because of no chrome around the front windshield glass.... unless they stripped that off too!.
I had a 1952 upper line Savoy wagon years ago.