-
Posts
2,555 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by c49er
-
-
Does the choke work too well? Does it even pop?
Does it crank over fast?
-
Fuel Pump/Trans Relay?
-
1
-
-
That's an original 1941-48 Chrysler only 8 cylinder tank... 20 gallons at that... nice tank!
You need a good ground for the sending unit... sometimes when R&R'ing a tank the sender won't work.... loss of ground.
-
1
-
-
If you're running a business and want a good reputation fast communication with the customers is necessary.
A nice guy in this case isn't cutting it.
-
I bought over 200 of those Dealer Ross Roy filmstrips/records and tech booklets back in the early 70's and used to watch/listen to all of them including the car and truck sales films.
They taught me everything about the 1948-52 MoPar cars which I still have today and I still have all these filmstrips and records.🙄
But now that they are on the internet it only takes a few moments to find one online to look at!
Mr tech sure is smart! He's the man.👍
-
Go to mymopar.com and search for factory training films. The one I mentioned volume 4-1 shows the 1949 chrysler transmission diagnosis..
All the factory service films for your car are there.
... there are 3 filmsalone on the M-6 trans and show downshifting issues and idle.
As already mentioned you should check the transmission governor points for oil saturation... carefully clean them with electric contact cleaner....
If it only dies when you feel it downshift automatically coming to a sto................ yet you can leave it in gear idling smoothly say in the driveway.....
Then it's probably a transmission circuit issue that's groundingthe ignition points too long on down shift.
-
This question on checking the fluid level and what type of oil to use comes up every few months about the Hydraulically Operated Transmission (M-5) and the Fluid Coupling
You need a factory shop manual to help answer your questions.
Or if you cannot afford a factory shop manual go to My Mopar.com and look at the dealer service films on how to service your Chrysler.
Do not change the fluid in your Fluid Drive coupling....... if necessary add to it with ISO 22 or ISO 32 hydraulic fluid.
If you find it low on fluid after you learn how to check and fill it the bellows seal is damaged , split, or cracked and will be very costly to repair if it even can be fixed correctly.
The separate M-5 transmission uses 10 Weight oil... about 3-1/2 pints. You can change that out with new oil if you want.
-
Neil Riddle.....(206) 285-6534.............. 1949-54 Plymouth parts dealer
-
The Upper bearing is usually the reason for hard shifting as you are finding out.
cars not driven much have this issue. Hot weather driving also cures it from here in the Great NW.
-
For years and years on the old 40's 50's 60's cars I never bench bled the M/Cylinde. It was not even mentioned in the older cars shop manuals to first bench bleed the Master cylinder.
I think the bench bleed the master cylinder procedure started as I recall in the middle 70's.
I practically never had issue's bleeding the brakes. I usually would air burp the M/cyl using the pedal several times then start the proper pressure bleeding process.
With a commercial pressure bleeder ( not a pump the spayer type DIY'er) it's very fast bleeding all the 70's and back old cars... even with frame mount boosters.
I have both vacuum and pressure tank professional bleeders.... the pressure type is the best and fastet for the old cars.
-
On 11/5/2018 at 3:38 AM, mikeyz123 said:
So i have a 1949 Chrysler windsor, vehicle doesn’t start up right away, took of carburetor and sprayed it with carburetor cleaner. Also used some starter fluid. I changed the spark plugs and i know there is also an exhaust leak and radiator leak but I don’t think that would prevent the car from starting. Also a new battery. Any suggestions would help.
How long has this starting problem been an issue?
Have you even been able to start the engine and get it running for any lenght of time?
If it did eventually start and run did it run smoothly?
-
-
It's odd that 128Th is listed as the street address for Bud Meadows as Aurora ave at 130Th St is a major street intersection.
The back entrance into the garage is on 128Th St.
The way the public enters is right at Aurora and 130th st.
I used to walk by that dealership every day on my way to and from school.
-
-
-
1950 Chrysler eights don't use a phenolic spacer and don't really need one.
It also would create problems setting up the Sisson choke linkage.
I know the 1953 and later MoPar sixes did use the spacer and shields on certain model to prevent carb heat soak.
-
Pressure bleeding is the best way..^^^^^^^^^^
I've had the same issue's trying to vacumn bleed using 160 lbs air supply on a couple 50's cars with pro shop bleeders....didn't cut it...pressure bled them quick with a commercial pressure tank bleeder..
Both cars DOT 5 withframe mount brake boosters.
-
3 hours ago, mikeyz123 said:
Why is that? I did use them, i used a cast iron rated one.
THE USE OF "SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS" -
WHEN CLEANING ENGINE GASKET SEALING SURFACES, AND/OR CLEANING PARTS FROM AN ENGINE WHICH ARE TO BE REUSED; SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS (TYPICALLY A WOVEN FIBER PAD DESIGN) WHICH CONTAIN ABRASIVES, SUCH AS A HIGH AMOUNT OF ALUMINUM OXIDE, ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.
THE USE OF SUCH SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS DISLODGE ALUMINUM OXIDE (FROM THE DISC) AND METAL PARTICLES, WHICH CAN LEAD TO PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE.
THE PRESENCE OF ALUMINUM OXIDE IN ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN SHOWN TO CAUSE PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE. IN SOME CASES THIS FAILURE OCCURS IN AS LITTLE AS 1,000 MILES (2,200 KM) OR LESS AFTER THE REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE.
SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS MAY GRIND THE COMPONENT PART MATERIAL AND IMBED IT INTO THE DISC. THIS CAN RESULT WHEN MORE AGGRESSIVE GRINDING OF THE GASKET SURFACE TAKES PLACE.-
1
-
-
Time to take it to someone who knows the old Mopar flatheads....hope you didn't use the Scotch-Brite Roloc disc's.
-
Use a mechanical switch with DOT 5 if the need be.
-
Excellent advice X 2!
I'd also say fix the engine with excessive blow by... don't band aid it.
-
1
-
-
Flush all steel brake lines 100% with denatured alcohol after removing all rubber parts in calipers/wheel cylinders and MCyl.
Replace all rubber parts and hoses, refill with DOT 5 ... bleed system carefully and slowly.
Done right.
-
Fine thread grade 8 bolts as shown above... not course.
-
1
-
-
How long have you owned the car? Did the car use to down shift OK before?
Is the transmission wiring all original and in good condition?
Does the engine idle really smooth in nuetral?
Pilot bearing lubrication
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by c49er
spelling (see edit history)
Never Grease a "oilite bushing"... maybe add a couple drops of oil to it.
I have greased them in the past and they made a odd sqauking? noise.
The pores of the oilite bushing were plugged up with grease and the pilot shaft galled the bushings.