[1948 New Yorker 2 year road trip]

8.20 X 15" tires are original for your 1948 NewYorker.

Diamond backs are what you should buy..... 

[Odd tool]

The chain tool.... maybe for greasing leaf springs with covers.

[Brake drums powder coated]

The shoes need to rub against raw metal!

[Congratulations Rusty'!!!]

Thank you Rusty on trying to endlessly educate people on Fluid Drive couplings and their related transmissions. You have so much patience!

Thank you for all the other great advice too!

[1956 Chrysler axle type?]

JC Auto Restoration in Seattle area will have what you need.

Does mainly 1955 thru early 60's Chryslers.1- (425) 672-8324

[Fluid Drive Stalling]

There's not much in a fluid drive coup[ling to cause your problem.Leave it alone...I've worked on many with seal leak issues.

Don't let anyone cut it open to rebuild it or you will be possibly in a world of hurt..the vanes don't bend and if the bearing was bad you would feel and hear it.

[Freeze Plug Sizes??????]

The block plugs are 1-5/8"...head 1-1/16"

[Water Distribution Tube/Overheating]

To be sure everything has been done right... no guessing......

.You need to remove the lower two engine block side core plugs to really clean the sludge out of the lower part of the block. .

The radiator needs to be flow checked by a radiator shop...if you can find one nowdays to be sure it fully flows and is not plugged up.

And while there pull the water D-tube to check it is not plugged or corroded.

Use the correct OE design thermostat. 

[Dangerous hydraulic jack]

5 hours ago, joe_padavano said:

Newsflash: most of the stuff you think is "quality" ( like NAPA) is also made in China, likely from the same vendor.

95% of what Americans buy is Chinese except animals and some vegetables

Everyone please buy more Chinese.

Good for you pocket.

[Fluid Drive Stalling]

The engine probably needs a good compression check and the tune up parts checked over and maybe replaced.

As mentioned it sounds like a accelerator pump leather is weak.Possibly plugged pump jet. Cause of hesitation when accelerating. Step up piston gasket could be missing or damaged too.

Basically some careful yearly maintenance might be in need.

[Dangerous hydraulic jack]

2 hours ago, joe_padavano said:

I find that the biggest critics of Harbor Freight are the people who have never bought anything from them. Do they sell crap? Yeah, some of it.  On the other hand, much of their product line is perfectly fine. I've got a very heavy duty transmission jack that I bought from HF over ten years ago for $150 that is still working great.  Replaced the ram on my engine hoist with an air-over-hydraulic one from HF and I love it. Their walnut shell blasting media (made in US, no less!) did a better job than the expensive walnut shell media I got from a brand name supplier. The list goes on.

 

If you lose sleep at night about the safety of their jacks, don't buy them.  The rest of us are just fine.  FYI, the incorrectly used jack that started this thread wasn't even bought at Harbor Freight!

That jack was made in China... same wimpy thing as HF sells..

[Dangerous hydraulic jack]

I would want a quality large frame.... more professional jack to lift a big car like your 37 Buick.

That jack is a little Alibaba import looks to me. Even with the small 3" saddle it looks scary to use under the big old heavy cars.

That little jack is made to lift up Corolla's and maybe even a Pinto.

I'd be careful with that little jack with the tiny saddle.

[53 b 3 outside door handle problem]

 The shop manual describes this issue... too long for me to type it all out.

You have to remove the glass channel runner.

[Brake Shoe Adjusting Cam]

Not reliably IMO. I'd find other good backing plates...Try asking or an ad on the P-15/D24 board.

Tough area to put heat to with out damaging the spring clip.

Using  mig or stick weld to the hardened pin will just crack and break at the 3/8" pin area.

The cam is what breaks loose from the hardened height pin.. 

 

 

 

[Fluid Drive Question]

 You can look into the bell housing through the vent screen to see if it's oily in there... meaning a bellows seal leak.

But of course the right way is to remove the lower bell housing cast iron dust cover.

The FD unit holds around 10 quarts.

[6V Starting and Charging Issues on 1954 Windsor]

Could be the  the solenoid  copper contact disc to the  two studs resistance is too high from high wear. Easy to fix by someone competent with automotive electrical work.

The two copper bolt studs and copper disc need to be removed to clean file or rotate to provide a clean flat new electrical connection surface.

The pinion gear to solenoid plunger adjustment is critical too. If not right the starter motor will not spin over... just click.

[SHOW US WHATS IN YOUR GARAGE]

Beautiful P15 Woodie wagon!

[So I guess I'm a Chrysler guy now]

Hope you didn't purchase a new Chinese regulator! NOS factory Autolite is the way to go. Especially on that nice car.

[6V Starting and Charging Issues on 1954 Windsor]

If that's a new 6 volt voltage regulator that was run on 12 volts it's most likely now a No Voltage Regulator. Might need a new good quality one made in the USA.

[Aluminum Head Info]

1939 thru 1941 Chrysler...aluminum head. Right out of the Chrysler parts book.

[6V Starting and Charging Issues on 1954 Windsor]

On your 54 Chrysler... 6 volt factory positive grounded car...

+ side of coil connects directly to the distributor

- (negative) side of the coil is the 6 volt power supply (hot wire) from the Ignition switch.

That's the way all 6 volt Mopar flathead cars are wired up for the coil and distributor.

Make sure the points are not burned from the 12 volts. Was the key left on?  

Warning... Modern new distributor Chinese condensers and points are no good! NAPA parts too.

Just check for spark with the coil tower lead pulled out of the dist cap and held 1/4 to 1/2" away from the block while the car is cranked over... should be a audible snapping bright blue spark.

If so and the rotor and cap look good the engine should fire. All that as long as the plugs are not soaked in gas and black.

[Chrysler Windsor: Can't remove generator from power steering pump]

That generator has a red tag on it... meaning it's a 6 volt generator. Was it run with 12 volt battery? If so you need to be sure no damage was done to the generator and voltage regulator.

Any new wiring on the car? Plastic covered etc.... messy looking? If so the whole harness needs to be carefully checked to see it's as factory if staying wit 6 volt postitive ground as was the car when new.

You need a factory shop manual...Ebay and use it.

[1950 Chrysler Trans swap]

Get it back to stock... forget the 12 volt. Another M6 12 volt conversion debacle.

[1949 New Yorker Bumper]

According to the 1949 Chrysler parts book the right and left portions of the rear bumper are for model C46 Town and Country only. No mention of early and late.

[So I guess I'm a Chrysler guy now]

Got to use high quality parts and keep up on the maintenance for sure.

Your 1954  T&C of course has the booster under the floor and I've seen and had my share of complete instant failures with those boosters. Never a instant  M/cylinder though.

With the old cars I drive very cautiously because of all the fast and crazy traffic.

Old cars can never compete with new cars in acceleration handling and stopping. Even with un-engineered upgrades