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Posts posted by c49er
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Remove the pump as Rusty said... remove the three nuts and lock washers then lightly wack the side of the pump housing with your fist to loosen it.
Don't be a pansy and use a mallet.
Then carefully work the pump off the three studs. There is a four notch rubber generator to P/S pump coupling... be careful that you don't damage it. It is common to see them damaged from a P/S pump oil leak..that softens and swells the rubber coupling making it swell in size.
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Those cars stop very very well if the brake job is done properly.You can lock em up easily if you want.
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I've never seen a small bolt pattern Chrysler wagon through 1954.
My 1950 Chrysler wagon has the 5-1/2" pattern with 12" brakes.
The wagons have heavier bigger suspension parts and drum hubs. Same as the Imperials.... not the Crown Imperial Limo's.
You should measure the pattern to be sure.
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The "Hydraulically Operated" 1946-48 Chrysler/DeSoto transmission .....AKA the M-5 is upshifted using transmission oil pressure where as the..
"Vacamatic" 1941-42 Chrysler and the 1941-42 DeSoto "Simplimatic" AKA M-4 transmission are up shifted by a vacuum controls.
Two different transmissions.
The big 1941-42 chrysler straight eight cars used the overdrive transmission I believe. Not 100% sure on the eights though... pretty rare cars..
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Yea... I'm even totally confused now!
I posted on both .... the header subject changed 1/2 way through while I posted.?????????????????????????????????????????????
What's Buttes on a dash?
I've worked on a 1942 S10 5th Ave convertible and a S10 3 pass cpe though!
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Can you post a pic of this transmission...I have seen only one... very rare... but it was a 1951-53 M-6 with OD on the back of it. It sold on E-bay a couple years ago.
1942 DeSoto's (say the S10) used the M4 transmissions....using either diaphram type (early) or piston type shift mechanisms.
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I know this topic has been thoroughly answered before.... but I need to say It's not about will other MoPar springs fit his convertible... it's about the ride and proper ride height for correct front end geometry.
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They sure did... I have hundreds of pages of them late 30's thru 40's....
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I would not change the Fluid Drive fluid either.
Never have changed it in any of my 11 Mopars over the last 35 years. Never a leaker or failure either.
I have seen a couple leak after a change though.
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The stainless mounts to the front body pinch weld before the rubber and glass are installed.
Hate to say it but maybe your is wrong. Normally I would never say that....
The factory Chrysler manual should state the proper way to install the 46-48 Chrysler glass and rubber as shown below.
The chrome is pressed onto the pinch weld first and lays under the rubber lip partially exposed.
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The rear rubber certainly has a groove for the rubber.
I worked on a N-Yorker 3 pass coupe that the rear glass was installed in recently.
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As I recall the windheild stainless trim stays on the car even before the glass and rubber are installed as a unit.
The glass is installed into the rubber is pushed into into the windshield opening from inside the car by one person........ then the rubber lip is pulled out and over the chrome trim around the windshield opening by the 2nd person from outside the car using a small diameter cord.
There is no groove in the rubber for chrome trim like on later 1949 and on MoPars.
This is stated in the shop manual I believe.
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Those seats in that low mileage Chrysler don't look like the original cloth. Looks like Mohair? That was not used in 1946-48 Chryslers.
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The old time full time "real" radiator guys are just about all gone.
Most radiator shops are closed because of the EPA.
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Radiator work today consists of replacing radiators with aluminum core and plastic tanks on the newer cars- not fixing them.
More and more pretty import aluminum radiators ( fits close enough with room to drill more holes) are being sold for those who don't want to spend money and do it right with copper cores on the old cars..
Import after market aluminum radiators are not all that long lived unless excellent cooling system maintenance is performed and cannot not be repaired easily if rotten.
Who will be around to fix them.. or even want to?
But there are the the hard to find real service shops that can do extremely technical restoration of old radiators.
They are the few and far between and have earned the right to charge the big $$$ for top notch work..
That's who I prefer to use.... do it once... do it right.
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Excellent buy as long as it doesn't have asbestos in it!
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Better be more scared of our old cars and asbestos...Jesus save us.
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A 56h?
I thought you were talking about a 344 Buda.....
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It's bound up somewhere because of Dust/dirt.
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The set of six pistons was $1100.00.
W/ 1-1/8" H-duty pins and ring set.
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I have had several of these 1946-48 Chrysler clocks not working.... open the back up.... carefully clean the points....they continue to work fine.
I did this to the one in my 48 woodie 35+ years ago... still works fine.
They are a good quality clock too.
Chrysler Windsor: Can't remove generator from power steering pump
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Hand hub cap installation... yes... very hard on the hands..... early MoPar P/S pumps off generators .... requires a very very light sideways wack...no arthritis here either ..close to 70.