[323 oilpan won't come off - any ideas?]

They might have siliconed it on too. The pan on all the 323's come straight off...easily. Work it carefully off with a wedge type tool...wide thin screw driver etc.

The oil PU float tangs are bent wrong letting the PU float ride to high for the full oil level...

[50 Windsor]

I use a crow foot, 5/8 swivel and a short 5/8" combo wrench to pull starters on 46-52 Mopars.

[Clear coating a 1951 nos steering wheel]

It's made of recycled dog poop. That's why it smells like that.

But really it's the type of material used back in the day....cellulose acetate butyrate.

When it starts to break down it smells awful.

[big cube flathead sixes]

I have a couple of them...rare breed...

 

[Portable 6 volt jump starter]

I also use the same battery as above in most of my six volt cars and trucks... a group #4 six volt...long lasting and very powerful.

I have to make up new hold downs.

[50 Windsor]

You have to take the starter out to properly check it out and repair it...probably a solenoid issue?

[50 Windsor]

If the battery is over 3-4 years old get a new fully charged battery.

Don't waste your time charging an old battery.

Get a New group 2 six  volt battery.

Then try starting it before tearing into the starter.

The positive battery cable connects to the block as the ground cable.  Negative cable to the starter solenoid  

[National Drive Your Woodie Day]

Very nice truck!!!!

[rear axle removal tool]

You can also use the brake drum as a puller...slip the drum on with the nut screwed on a few threads. Then use the drum as a slide hammer.

I just did a 1941 180 Brougham that way a month ago. Easy peasy.

I was too lazy to get the slide puller out.

[Chrysler Plymouth Flathead 6 Broken Tappets]

They are a great company in my backyard (Seattle) so to speak!

I use them a lot.

[1956 Windsor, mushy brakes]

Modern hard brake linings do not work properly on these old drum brake systems IMO. I buy NOS linings for all my old MoPars now off Ebay.

As mentioned old stock asbestos or equivalent lining material makes the old drum brakes operate and function well as they did when new.

Safe, high, firm pedal and the ability to easily lock em up if you wanted... not that you would want to for safe quick stops though!

[1956 Windsor, mushy brakes]

This 1956 Windsor does NOT have Lockheed double anchor brakes (1946-1955 Mopar cars) requiring the Ammco 1750 or Miller MT 19 special shoe adjusting tools.

It has "Total Contact" brakes.. the shoes self center in the drum..they float in the shoe support plate so to speak.

The shoe curvature needs to match the drum curvature .  This.......... fitting the shoes to each size of drum if they are new shoes or they do not accurately fit the drums.

There are two 7/16" hex cam bolts on each wheel backing plate  that are turned the same direction as the forward wheel motion.. tire needs to be off the ground to spin it then turn each adjusting cam as mentioned till the wheel locks up... back off just till the wheel spins.

I wouldn't waste my time honing cylinders that most likely will leak in a year onto the linings or into the booster ...I'd sleeve them..do it right.

 

 

[50 Windsor]

Have you ever had it running? Is it a new car to you?

The starters on a 1950 Chrysler can have problems with the solenoid contacts.

They are very costly starters and difficult to find.

Hooking the cables up backwards won't damage it...

Possibly the starter pinion gear is not engaged into the fluid coupling ring gear and is just spinning at 4000RPM  causing the humming sound.

[Waterless coolant experience]

If you have a small coolant leak with Evans product you certainly will smell it.

[Recommendations 4-post lift?]

I have two 4 posts- a Rotary 12,000 lb  and a BP 14,000 lb... 270" long...extra long  limo lifts. Dual rolling jacks...One extra tall 80" lift.

Drive over and under them. Work on them......Never an issue with either.

[driveshaft adjustment 49 chrysler woody]

I'll post a pic of a late 50 M-6 shift linkage adjustment then...

I looked at all three of my Chrysler's shifter linkage... they all are as shown above.

[driveshaft adjustment 49 chrysler woody]

It's your shift linkage adjustment or...

If you took the side cover off the trans it was installed back on wrong.

The bolt with the lock nut on the rear transmission  shift lever is adjusted shorter or longer to get reverse on a 49 Chrysler.

Shop manual explains it.

[‘53 Fluid Drive sticking]

Proper idle speed being slow enough lets the direct speed blocker ring sync up with the input shaft.... causing the up-shift.

[‘53 Fluid Drive sticking]

Too high of Idle speed possibly.... needs to be around 450 RPM...

Governor points could be dirty too.

[What are you using for Gasioline these days]

Give in... we are all going to have to.... get an eco friendly electric car..

That's what is the right thing to do for our kids and grand kids... on and on.  Global warming is a huge issue you know.

[align input shaft from tranny to clutch and engine]

Be gentle pushing the trans in on a FD coupling... the graphite seal ring or bellows if the older seal style can be damaged.

[align input shaft from tranny to clutch and engine]

The throw out bearing accurately slides over the input shaft bearing retainer sleeve...

The clutch fork has two curled springs that hold the release bearing sleeve to the clutch fork.

It's imperative that the release bearing that's already assembled to the fork is centered properly on and over the three fingers of the clutch pressure plate.

Double check this by looking thru the release bearing hole into the splined hole of the clutch disc..... being sure it looks centered with the disc splined hole.

I usually force the release bearing and fork assembly up slightly against the three fingers of the pressure plate by lengthening the clutch fork adjustment rod.... just enough to hold it in place centered on the pressure plate fingers.

That M6 transmission uses two 7/16" X 14 threaded 3" studs already at the bottom two mounting holes in the bell housing. A lot of times they unscrew out of the bell housing and remain with the nut in the lower mount holes of the transmission.

Put them back in the bell housing and use them as your installation/mounting guide studs.

Installation pictures below are shown on a X- Member convertible hardtop frame....very tight angle installation.

All other Chrysler models as yours are wide open straight shot into the bell housing.

[align input shaft from tranny to clutch and engine]

Nothing unique about inserting a M-6 into a fluid drive coupling... same as a 55 Chevy 3 speed job.

A good tranny jack and flat smooth floor...pull it out re-align go in easy with it in low... rotate the drum back and forth till in goes in... watch the clutch fork and bearing position.

 

[Anyone In Clarkson Washington Able to Check Out a Car For Me?]

4-1/2 hours too far from me... been there a few times though

[1948 Chrysler Windsor questions]

You won't find an OE factory mat.

Buy the one from Bernbaum as listed above... close as you will get.

I've looked for 40 years.