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c49er

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Posts posted by c49er

    carburetor missing something

    in Technical

    Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)

    The plug ball is just bigger than the hole.

    .It is pressed just to just slightly above the casting and staked in place.

    Last year I also rebuilt a carb with that ball missing...a core carb. I did measure the diameter but don't now remember the size.

    That is not a check ball. It must be in place to make the accelerator pump jet have a 100% strong squirt into the venturing area....otherwise fuel will spray up through the missing ball hole and do nothing but possibly cause a hesitation on quick hard acceleration.

    1952 Chrysler Fluid Drive

    in Chrysler Products - General

    Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)

    The 1951 131" WB NewYorker wagon is an extremely low production wagon of the 1951-1952 models. 251 were produced..it used the heavy suspension components and brakes/booster with the 331 Hemi. I have only seen one. The front end is six inches longer than the Windsor or Saratoga 125" WB cars and has more ornate die cast grille and front end chrome.

    The 1951-52 Windsor and Saratoga wagons are basically the same car on a 125" WB...not trimmed out quite as nice as the top of the line NewYorker wagon only built in 51.

    The Saratoga wagon had the 331 hemi ..the Windsor had the 251 or 265 flathead six. The 265 started in 1952.

    1967 of the Windsors and 1967 Saratogas supposedly were made in 1951-52 model years (70 Years of Chrysler). Front ends and trim is the same on the Windsor/Saratoga cars. The Saratoga having more performance than the Windsor

    No Imperial station wagons were ever produced in the 1951-52 model years.

    There is a or was a Windsor wagon just south of Seattle I used to see and the NewYorker wagon was in Rainier Valley in Seattle back in the late 70's. Beige was the color of both.

     

    • Like 1

    1953 Chrysler master Cylinder help needed

    in Chrysler Products - General

    Posted · Edited by c49er
    Incorrect information posted! (see edit history)

    I knock the 2 outer horse shoe clips off each end of the master cylinder pedal shaft using the two jaws of an open end 13/16 wrench hitting the other end of the wrench.

    Remove the 2 steel brake fluid lines..top booster bleed back and 1 rear line. Remove both pedal smaller return springs...

    Also remove both the clutch and brake adjustable push rods...NOTE

    Be aware to not let the clutch pedal slam down and whack you! With out the clutch linkage push rod installed on the clutch pedal if you push or pull on it,   it can slam down to the frame...watch it! 

    If it does leave it down or just push or pull it back up depending if you are under or up in the car.

    This only with the big clutch pedal assist spring still connected. As Keith shows and advises remove the big nut on the rear of the spring to relieve tension to remove this spring.

    Now remove the three master cylinder mounting bolts. With the three bolts out now you can remove the pedals and M/ cylinder up and out of the car with the floor panel removed.

    Then slip both pedals off the pivot shaft and press the pivot shaft out of the cylinder.

    I usually do not remove the floor pan for typical master cylinder replacement...no need and saves a lot of time.

    I just remove the cylinder from underneath by maneuvering the cylinder enough to slip each pedal off the pivot shaft (the horse shoe clips are already removed) leaving the pedals hanging in the floor pan.

    Then pulling cylinder down and out of car for replacement. This way does require horse shoe clip removal on the car.

    If you do remove the floor pan for access then the clips can be removed after the cylinder and pedals are pulled out from above.

    Take pictures and you will have to re- adjust both clutch and brake pedal free play on re- assembly so take note of both before dis- assembly!

    Shown is using the factory horse shoe clip tool and a cheater  open end wrench to remove clips.

    Horse shoe clip miller tool use (2).JPG

    Removing horseshoe clip With Open End Wrench.JPG

    • Like 2

    1952 Chrysler Fluid Drive

    in Chrysler Products - General

    Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)

    Grinding into reverse (a non synchro gear) means clutch is not releasing.

    So....is the pressure plate pulling back away from the clutch disc .020-.050" ?

    Is the clutch disc bent enough from improper trans install or removal causing input shaft drag..

    Maybe the pilot bushings are dragging on the input shaft..called up.

    Normally there should be 1" of pedal free play...lengthen the clutch fork rod just enough to get rid of the free play...if there is still grinding you need to pull the lower cast bell housing cover for more serious inspection. Fluids in the FD or trans won't affect releasing the clutch.

    Hopefully the over center spring adjustment has not been changed from factory setting....somewhat hard to adjust correctly with out the Miller tool which is not available.

    • Like 1

    1947 Chrysler Windsor no reverse

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)

    You didn't road test with the seller and know that reverse was pull back and up? 

    Rusty posted the correct shifter pattern

    Find an original owners AND Shop manual and read them so you will understand the basic operation and service of your C38 model Chrysler with the M5 Hydraulically Operated Transmission with the Fluid Coupling.

    You also need to have a very good

    E-Brake to prevent a roll away. 

    1947 Chrysler Windsor no reverse

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    It's in need of a shift rod adjustment. 

    The motor mounts are probably worn out and the engine has shifted.

    You like your old chrysler...better get the factory service manual so you can learn how to properly take care of it.

    Not many will know as much as you if you study that service manual. The adjustment is done on the only adjustable shifter rod next to the steering column....loosen the two 7/16" nuts...they probably need to be screwed up tighter to shorten the rod.

    1952 Chrysler fuel tank

    in Chrysler Products - General

    Posted

    That picture of the internal tank fitting was a picture I posted on another website and yes the tube nut is a special long tube nut. The tube end is a special bubble flare backed up with a flared.copper sealing washer. I posted pictures of all that. I will post them again if needed when back.

     

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