c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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You Might take a careful look at the connecting rod cotter pins for looseness or missing ends too.
They should not be loose and flopping around as the ends camera and fall off.
Such a wonderful car!
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I bought my first car for $5.00 in 1967...a 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook.
Six months later a 52 Cranbrook and I'm not even 70 yet!
Both were sitting...got one running took the OD out of the other to put in my brothers 51 Cranbrook...
Front and back yards looked like the picture shown above....dad wasn't too happy.
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The shroud is the upper third of the radiator...
There are two pieces to it.
Brackets on the sides of the radiator attach it in place.
I drove this car over 80,000 miles.
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I will check today...was going to look yesterday...sorry..
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Looks like modern day MoPar material...Probably 60's/ 70's.
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I have a 53 Plymouth Savoy wagon...a parts car..I'll have to look.
As I recall a shroud is used on it.
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That's a great quality repairable old bottle jack.
Unlike Harbor Freight low quality import bottle jacks.
A usable tool more than a collector tool.
Doesn't look like it was used a lot as the screw top pad is hardly worn unlike my bottle Jack's I use a lot.
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Good to hear you used your like new old linings that are asbestos.
They will feel right and not be grabby.
I use NOS MoPar or types like Greylock asbestos linings.
Modern linings on the old Lockheed's and later MoPar Center Plane brakes don't work right...can be grabby cold and soft and weak hot no matter what grade of linings used.
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As a daily driver which would be scary ...maybe even once in awhile antique insurance would be tough to buy.
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Low 40 lbs compression on #6 cylinder .
Popping up through the carb is a serious problem that needs to be fixed...most likely a intake valve sealing problem.
There could be a broken or weak intake valve spring ...causing the popping through the intake.
I have seen one split intake valve on a 47 Chrysler convert I did for a customer.
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Maybe the seller would not want the general public to know his very high asking price.
Possibly the seller thinks his price is more than he would even offer to pay.
I don't like it when the seller says...make me a fair offer!
Well ...what's a fair offer...jeez
I know late 50's Chrysler restored steering wheels can cost easily over $2500.00.
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A 1948 Chrysler rear axle housing mailbox..
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Try using a pressure oil tank screwed into the oil galley...pressure it up to 25lbs or more... priming all the oil lines/ galleys.
It should fill and prime the oil pump too.
Then try priming with the oil pump.
Oil pumps drained of oil can be at times hard to prime.
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Sometimes the oil in the rear end gets so high it leaks out worn axle seals and lubes up the brake linings...
Not good.
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Now....where is the oil leaking to....not into the torque tube🤯
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Vacuum advance is ported on Chrysler eights .
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Yes... you do need to use the clutch unless you are an old over the road trucker from the old old days....not many trucks back then had synchro's...you had to feel your way into gear sensing engine RPM or double clutch you way in to the next gear.
The shift gate in a 41 is kinda vague...not a crisp "H" pattern.
Also shift linkage gets worn and loose and should be tightened up with the bushing kits.
Do what Matt says first.
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Beck in the 80's there was a man making a semi close repro mat for the P15's...
Have never ever seen any since. Lots of people would buy them if available for sure.
JC Whitney and BS Wisniewski back in the 60's used to sell them too...
Those too are all sold out😕
Your mat is actually pretty nice from what is still in some P15's
Good luck!
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I assume you are referring to the 323 Chrysler eights...
I too have wondered about the two degree's ATDC setting.
My 1953 Didge truck with the big 413 six is also 2 degree's ATDC.
Two barrel Stromberg AAV carbs were used on the 1946 thru 47 Chrysler eights...a single barrel Carter Ball and Ball on the 1948 engine. Both variations still set at 2 ATDC.
But 1949-50 Chrysler eights with the single barrel Ball and Ball carbs were now set at TDC.
I have always set them a couple degree's before TDC especially needed now days because of the ethanol fuel.
Wish I had a good answer for you.
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The piston must come back all the way to the steel stop plate inside the rubber boot.
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If running cheap super thin china tubes a flap is a good idea... narrow one as used on the old OE Motor wheel wire wheels.
Tubes today are so cheap...thanks engineers and China for making an effort to keep us old car folks safe.👎
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Try removing the rubber bumper for extra travel..
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His piston is slightly different (late 30's MoPar) than what should be in your 50.
The piston must come all the way back to the rubber boot plate stop.
This because the smaller hole relief port hole must not be blocked by the piston.
If it is the brakes will not release properly.
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Be careful the linings don't delaminate from the shoe.
I have had it happen.
1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)
This...https://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5256TB-Classic-Grease/dp/B00JFF4Y44.
And another..https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/100-Series/NO-115/No-115-Water-Pump-Lubricant-16-oz-Tub/