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Posts posted by c49er
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No reason to convert...fix em.
Screw drives work great...forever as long as maintained.
Hydraulics.....can and will leak.
So it seems your right side motor assembly is not working.
Take them both out and get them both up to proper working order.
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I know of a 354 Chrysler Hemi that Jasper did. The rear main seal leaked....pretty bad.
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Don't let the hot wire short out on the filler pipe ....💣
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That is one 1950 Chrysler beater cpe.😬
It belongs in the cemetery.
Keep looking and buy a good car.
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Is it a six cylinder or eight steering box...?
Diameter of the worm shaft threads at wheel nut id's it..
Or the Hex nut size.
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The only way to get one is used.
No one will have a new complete floor pan.
I removed a "complete floor" from a 47 Windsor coupe years ago...was a lot of work.
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With Evan's coolant if you have the slightest leak or over flow you sure will smell it.
And smell it more and more and more in your garage or shop.
A smell you will always remember.
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12 hours ago, Brett Hulen said:
I spoke with Eleanor today regarding her 1958 Imperial and what a pleasure it was conversing with her! One of the first things she asked me was why was I interested and how old I was. I am a very young 71 and had previously owned a 1958 Crown Imperial 4 door sedan, and my father owned a 1957 Crown Imperial 4 door sedan as well. I always kidded him that mine had 20 more horsepower! I recall one day Dad and I were driving from Yreka, California to Bend, Oregon for the Oregon State Old Time Fiddling Contest. I was driving Dad's 1957 Ford Fairlane 500 with the 312 Thunderbird Special engine. A 1957 Imperial passed us and Dad said to me "Let's catch up to it as I want to look at it". As a young man in my early 20's I was up for the chase! A long story short, we never could catch them and I had that little Ford wound up pretty tight to the extent Dad became a little concerned with our speed and reluctantly we gave up. Those Imperials with the 392's would run forever. The 392 in my opinion was one of the best engines ever built in the 50's and is a sentiment shared by Big Daddy Don Garlits. I hope to drive up and take a look at her Imperial, now just need to see if I can make room in my garage.
It would be worth it to see the car just to meet Eleanor!
Do it!
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I too sold a ton of Atlas parts at an Enco station in N. Seattle.
Used to know the application for a lot of the part #'s.....not anymore!
Better search ebay for a cheap Atlas parts book. If that's a possibility on ebay anymore.
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Glad to hear Eleanor is still in great health!
I Last saw her and the car at the Greenwood car show.
She told me she was digging up the main water line feeding the house to replace it......this herself !!!!!🤯
She's a ball of fire!
I first met her in 1980 or 81 to tune the 392 up for her.
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8 hours ago, caddy60s said:
Can anybody tell me about a check valve in the gas tank & if it could get stuck and not allow fuel from the tank. Would there be a way of resolving the problem?
Bruce
No check valve in the tank. There is a pancake looking permanent oilite fuel filter in the tank... not
serviceable. It can plug up...easy enough to check that.
Also there is a special 1/2" long brass bushing that goes into the tank fuel line fitting before the steel line is screwed to the fuel tank. It seals the external line to the internal fuel tank line. With out it you will have a partial suction leak and the pump cannot suck fuel out of the tank to capacity...IE fuel starvation.
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To be honest...the wheel is for fat people.
"Fat man steering wheel".
PC is over used and out the window with me.
It is what it is.....😆
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There is a "oilite" tank filter.
Not accessible. Some run a stiff wire thru it to bust it open.
Others tank the tank to a pro to have the tank cleaned and the filter removed.
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Geez.....
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Wow! I better look this one up on All Data.
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Yep! Typical 51-52 Plymouth carb.
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"I ended up using tdh tractor fluid iso32"
You didn't really put this fluid in the rear axle?
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On some B and B carbs that had no Squirt I pull the carb top off.
Then make sure the fuel bowl is full of gas. Then grab the very top of the pump plunger and pull it up and release it watching for any signs of fuel bubbling up around the pump plunger leather cup ...if so meaning the pump leather cup has shrunk up. There is a small coil spring behind that leather cup which helps keep it expanded.
I have many times used a pen point to re-flare outward the leather cup to temporarily fix a no squirt accelerator pump problem.
Another very common reason for weak or no squirt is the pump jet where the fuel squirts out is plugged. With that issue I simply use a soft wire to clear it out. Might take a couple try's. I also sometimes quickly remove the aluminum plug net to it and unscrew the jet to clean it... always during a rebuild.
Fill the bowl with fuel and make sure the pump plunger pushes a good strong squirt of fuel out the accelerator venturi jet to be sure after a rebuild or quick fix job.
The middle picture is just showing a very dirty pump jet. The hole in it is not the one that plugs up. The hole that can plug up is at the end of the jet that is at the venturi wall.... bottom picture.
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The carb should be a Carter Ball and Ball D6H2.
***The accelerator pump leather possibly has shrunk up..
***The accelerator pump jet located behind the aluminum plug is blocked with debris
***Or one of the check balls is stuck or missing.
Simple carb to rebuild if you have done carbs before.
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The fill plug for the 10W transmission oil is accessed from below the car on the passenger side of the car.
You will see a metal tag on the trans that says use 10 W only..
The fill plug is right by the tag.
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Certain Ramblers and if course Mustangs were cars I hated putting gas into when I was a kid working at the gas station.
Slow and blow back.
Awful .
CLUNK! What the heck is that new noise??
in Technical
Posted
Might check the rear axle brake drum/ axle nuts...142lbs torque.
A 5/16" key holds the drum to the axle shaft.