c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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That is not a rear main seal.
That's the bell housing front dust seal and plate.
Normally never needs to be replaced.
Any 1949-52 Chrysler or DeSoto car will fit.
If you need another find a national big wrecking yard that sells older cars.
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Bad sender...don't wonder...
Put a real Guage on it to know for sure...
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Back in the 80's we used to drive a 320 Flixable buss to the Portland swap meet for a couple of years....
Was fun to drive down from the Seattle area.
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Wuuu Hoooo!
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Well I looked thru my 1936-42 Chrysler parts list....has no interior upholstery or visor parts listed...group 23-103-...
All I can supply is the Dodge truck chrome bracket found as an option #593789
And the Chrysler convert chrome arm and bracket sold originally as a assembly..#936366.
Both the above chrome brackets look identical but are drilled ever so slightly different for the chrome visor arm.
A picture of the DT visor arm brackets..
And of a 1946-48 broken or whats left of it Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler bracket...notice bracket visor arm holes truck centered verses offset convertible.
Some of this info might help even though not mid to late 30's MoPar...
Though the part #'s I've listed are mid to late 30's.
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I will look up what I can tomorrow...been super busy!
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I will check my books to see if I can match up the part numbers car to truck.
A friend of mine who passed away had two 39 Plym converts....His massive parts all were sold off. He would have had lots of that rare hard to find convertible parts ..oh well.
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Very common leaking area's on the 1946-48 Hydraulically operated Chrysler M-5 transmission are the....
....solenoid mounting plate gasket
....filter screen plate gasket
....rear extension housing gasket
....rear output shaft seal.
Fluid Drive Coupling Leaks...
.....Bellows seal housing...copper bellows corrode and pin hole
.....graphite seal ring cracks and or worn and pitted
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The truck chrome visor brackets are drilled slightly different than the 1946-48 MoPar convertible brackets.
I've tried swapping truck brackets on to my 48 Chrysler...visors would swing down at an odd angle....couldn't use the truck brackets.
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1949-52 Plymouth Dodge 218/230 ci. 23" engine.
Will fit some other models of same cars too.
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Great find of six cylinder MoPar trim rings!
I also have a NOS set for the wider six inch wheel that fits the eight cylinder cars.
I too am afraid to mount them and damage removing them. I have never heard or seen of a factory tool to remove them.
I do have the factory tire iron with the hub cap clip tool attached to it for removing the hub caps with out damaging the trim ring..
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That axle bearing was making some noise!
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On 5/10/2021 at 11:02 AM, JamesR said:
(Or is it a '51? I can't tell.) It's my theory that when the seller is off on the year of the car, the chances are good there's no title for it. I could be wrong...the car apparently has "collector plates," but I don't know what the legal requirements are in Washington state.
It's a 52 identified by the style of tail/backup lights.
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Old Ford six....223?
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Very uncommon for the front of a m5 Chrysler transmission to leak.
There is no front input shaft seal.
The cluster gear shaft could be loose in the front of the trans case...not a good thing.
Or possibly the front bearing retainer gasket leaking ...unusual.
Maybe the transmission was over filled with 10W oil?
Sure it isn't the Fluid Drive coupling?
They leak fluid out the lower bell housing 1/4" hole....
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I am interested too. I will pm.
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If you have a chinese pertronix...always have a complete back up.
Or just go back to points...also carrying an extra set of points and condenser of non chinese quality.
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No abuse... just use the correct puller and finesse... get'er done.
No problems.
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Brake shops did these drums in 5 minutes...use a H-duty puller...though I believe if you tighten the one you have up tight enough the drum will pop loose WITH OUT heat!
I have done several big 30's Packards with the same puller as yours. I sometimes use five or six legs.
I also use an old Snap-On Blue point puller too.
The drums always come off in minutes...no heat just real man swings on the dog bone with a 4 lb hammer.
No heat ...no days of waiting.
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Please go to the p15/d24 forum. All and more is answered there...https://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/
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I made a mistake not the chrysler club....the WPC Club..
Maybe you know of that.
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On 4/29/2021 at 7:36 AM, Chry54 said:
zack, i need a trunk light socket for my 54 windsor. the one that turns the bulb on/off with the movement of the trunk lid. the 52 might be the same. the 53 is. capt den
You need to run the MoPar # online/ ebay, AMS, Roberts, Len Dawson ...on and on....every week and join the National Chrysler club.
Then contact all owners of the same car...then you will have a chance of finding the mercury trunk lite.
I probably have one but am not going to spend hours digging parts...sorry.
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Rear axle bearings are very reliable on the old MoPar's.
I have not had to replace that many over the years.
So..
If you need to remove the shims to correct excessive end play to proper end play of .003" -.008".....
Your axle bearings and or differential center block are worn....
Bearings are most likely worn out.
The shims installed on different cars varies greatly.
Many thicknesses were used. .005", .010", .012", .020" etc.
A dial indicator is needed to set the end play of axles...also shim stack thickness needs to be pretty equal side to side.
Skill is needed to do the job right.
As mentioned the drum/axle nut has nothing to do with rear axle shaft end play....
The shim stack between the backing plate and axle housing sets the end play.
The OP probably has to do nothing with the seals or axle shaft end play unless he saw oil leakage on the brake backing plate....
Oil leakage means replacing inner and outer axle shaft seals plus checking bearing condition and end play.
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That nut on the rear drum is 1-1/4".
142 lbs...if the nut slots don't line up for the cotter pin turn a slot tighter till they do.
Never back the nut off a slot...go a slot tighter till the cotter pin fits.
I have had a couple of these drum nuts loose on customers mopars..makes a snapping noise upon take off forward or reverse.
Not saying this is your issue but could be.
You will not strip the nut or axle threads from over tightening the nut by hand using a 3/4" breaker bar.
Just make sure that nut is real tight if not using a torque wrench!
Now find the problem clunk!😁
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Brake Adjustment Tool For Sale $100 USD Shipped
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Leave it to Mikey.