c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Better take it apart and look see.
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Some after market rubber parts are made of too stiff rubber.
Open cell closed cell etc.
Sometimes leaving the door closed hard for a couple weeks will imprint compress the rubber seal..then you can re-adjust down tighter. Then the rubber seal conforms...working fine and the panel fits flush and right.
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I have also removed, cleaned and re-installed these lifters in a 1941 Packard 356 and a Dodge 413 flathead six.
Both with perfectly quiet results.
DO NOT MIX the parts as mentioned.
Tight factory clearances are critical to proper quiet operation of these lifters.
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Looks like a Rochester 2GC carb.
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A Chrysler straight eight with the original non-reground cam and tight valve guides, good springs, .010" max lifter clearance will make no tappet noise.
Now as for the Wilcox-Rich lifter...if clean and not damaged they are whisper quiet too.
A old worn out 1951-53 Chrysler Hemi is a good example how noisy these worn out or sludged up hydraulic lifters can be.
A nice running Packard "8" with these Wilcox-Rich lifters...no lifter noise at all.
The Wilcox-Rich pellet is used in several car makers lifter bodies. Though the pellet style varies slightly.
These complete hydraulic lifters are very difficult to find now days for any make.
They also require a different grind camshaft.
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The pin end sets the distance the shoe web and shoe lining is from the backing plate too.
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Spring... #1092518
Washer..#120396
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Go to "AMS Obsolete MoPar" and enter those parts #'s in the "search parts" bar to see if they have it.
Do the same at "Deception Pass Motor Parts"...there you can enter your parts numbers to see if he has those parts.
Enter those parts numbers on Google too...sometimes you get a good hit...same @ ebay.
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Replacing the whole backing plate is the right answer...those pins and cams do not repair and last... meaning welding or brazing the cam to the pin.
seen that a few times.
The pin/bolt and cam are swedged together at the factory...
But here are the pin and cam factory MoPar part numbers...
Cam #1262832
Pin/Bolt #1292517
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Olsen's for gaskets on that engine?
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I have seen way too many old collectors hoard and also try to get their price no one wants to pay.
Then seeing or hearing of their parts being sold off or dumped for practically nothing.
Now I'm starting to sell off some of my parts and cars locally for realistic saleable prices. I'm not the old hoser guy..don't want that name!
I do it so the seller (me) and the buyer are both happy and got what they both wanted👍
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Do you have the spindle spacer sleeve too?
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I like to help out 1946-54 MoPar owners and do quite often.
Glad to say 99% reply with a thank you...not that I want it.
I have replied back to a couple folks who I offered advice I never saw heard any response.....no reply back at all.
They weren't raised well.
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Those factory rings are a once life time find!
And boy do they bite into the rim once installed.
And so easy to put pry marks into the trim ring face. Bad bad bad.
You have to work the trim ring up from the rim working from the inside circle of the trim ring....carefully.
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Leave the door open and fill the glove box up with rodent be gone...you will be free of them for a couple months.
But better yet use mouse traps on top of the battery and engine for a week or so to catch and kill the problem rodents before they enter the car. When you catch no more of those stinky critters
you won't have the problem for a few months.
But they will be back....the use their urine to make trail and teach others of the cool places to nest.
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Yes ...
We need to know whatwhen and how this problem occurred.
These flatheads are really simple.
You need compression, fuel and good spark.
Close timing and the engine should run.
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See the driveshaft man again!
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I would bet your distributor most likely does rotate when cranking the engine over..I've never seen a MoPar flathead not rotate...
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When you crank the engine over long enough do you have oil pressure?
If yes the timing chain and cam drive gear are OK.
If the distributor still does not turn....
.....distributor drive tang/shaft that fits into the oil pump is damaged.
.....the correct distributor is not fully inserted down into the block hole and tightened down properly
.....The 3/8" shorter Plymouth or Dodge distributor has been installed...won't reach the oil pump drive
Maybe none of the above is even the issue.
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For gaskets..."Olsen's Gaskets"
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Looks like you are going to need another radiator.
Your original radiator is a cellular type.
Sealers will seal it up alright but probably a bit too much!
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You can drive these M-5/ M-6 transmissions just like a 4 speed if you use the "Shift-Rite" shift knob or set one up on the shifter cover and lever.
No full throttle kick down required...smooth silent up down shifting when you want it.
Makes these cars effortless to drive.
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Not much in the trans relay...
Two sets of points.
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I have kept up a 1948 NewYorker for a older man for over 30+ years.
He loved that car...drove it to many many events over the years.
It was black with a green plastic dash and seats.
He recently passed away sadly.
I own a 48 8 cylinder T&C I've had for over 40 years.
Out on the open road is the sweet spot for these cars.
Good luck and fun ahead with your car!
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Alive when car was new
in General Discussion
Posted
Do you want the rare 4 BBL Sprint Six model?