c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Saratoga's are a "He"....
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The cheaper Chrysler standard equipment "Fluid-Matic" fluid coupling on a Hemi engine car is filled only throught the rectangular top bell housing access plate.
Not through the access hole on the floor tunnel as most FD cars are typically filled painfully slow.
Blue saratoga 52 filled his simple, typical style FD coupling properly.
If he had the Fluid Torque Drive it would be filled from ONLY under the car.
You pour the fluid into the bell housing sump pan letting the torque converter pump fill the converter quickly as like any modern auto trans.
Keep filling the while the engine is running until the converter is filled and the proper oil level in the sump is achieved.
Engine Fed Torque Converter cars have a special engine oil fill cap with instructions stating how to fill engine and torque converter.
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1949-50 Chrysler 8's all use a fan shroud installed by the factory.. as do the 1946-48 Chrysler 8's.
Shrouds for the C39 cars are really tough to find.
The Factory 1946-48 8 cylinder timing spec out of the factory service manual says....2 degrees ATDC as mentioned already.
I set my 8 cylinder Chryslers timing at 2 degrees BTDC now days because of today's fuel.
At full hard throttle I want the very brief and slightest ping between 10-20 mph for best performance and mpg.
Jmo.
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Also valve clearance adjustment might be in order.
Do a compression test hot too.
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What's wrong with it?
Not much to them.
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We never had "the tool" back in the 60's and 70's.
We just put new shoes on...adjusted them out against the drum
Drove the car a couple weeks every day....back then it was your every day driver....then did another wind the shoes outward against the drum adjustment.
Did that two to three times. The pedal came up high and rock hard.
No magic brake tool used.
Just wear in of the shoe lining to the drum. Always leave the anchor arrows at the factory pointing position.
These Lockheed brake system cars stop excellent ...at least back in the days using the good asbestos shoe linings.
Today's modern all you can get drum linings do not perform predictably and safely IMO.
I now only use old stock asbestos linings. Safe proper feel of stopping power.
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Ballston has saved my butt a few times...
Straight 8 heat risers ....nothing else worked including acetone/ATF, Kroil etc.
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Those convert regulators have a delicate narrow rack gear. Most people do not take out the heavy cast iron pivot bracket, clean it and lube it so it pivots freely.
Also that lower curved guide needs to be cleaned adjusted and lubed.
Then that 1/4 window regulator after also cleaning and lubing can be installed.
Give me a week if you are interested and I will look to see if I still have one of those drivers side regulators.
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What body style of car?
Used might have to do....
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I'd say the by-pass oil filter and oil should have been changed more frequently.
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A 1949-50 Chrysler 8 cylinder shroud won't fit the 1946-8 8 cylinder cars.
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There is small spring in the T/S switch on your Chrysler if missing ....the T/S canceler won't operate correctly.
Leaving the lights blinking.
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Push rod to piston problem.
Use the shorter push rods.
Chinese cylinders are also a hope they work problem.
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To polarize your Plymouth Autolite generator Just use a short piece of say 16ga. jumper wire...
Connect the "B" and "A" (battery and armature) terminals on the regulator for just a quick second of a flash...done.
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Make sure to clean the pick up screen too...
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I love making brake lines...I have many benders and different types of flaring tools including the hydraulic type.
I really like making stainless lines....looking so pretty and lasting forever.
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On 6/25/2021 at 8:06 PM, Joe Cocuzza said:
Like Joe posted...this is what you will find...the actual original factory engine # stamped right into the left rear frame...
The engine # shown D24-205.. designates a 1946-48 Dodge. The number portion will set the year of production.
Easy to locate with some effort.
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I just R&R'd a 1946 Chrysler master cylinder from underneath the floor.
Two hours including bleeding.
Otherwise you need to remove the complete front floor....this if you cannot figure out how to do it from underneath. ...removing the whole front floor panel is a major job.
I have done hundreds of these jobs over the last 45 years and learned how to get that master cylinder out fast and easy.
It is if you do enough of them.
Installing the left front and right front brake lines are difficult because of the fender panel and junction block location.
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It IS the engine number that is stamped into the left rear of the frame.
Somewhat towards the rear of the car from the centerline of the left rear tire.
You will not damage the stamping with a wire wheel.
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Upper inner fender panel 7/16" head size bolts are plated.
They are NOT painted .
C49 T&C body colors of Juniper green/ Black or Indian brown.
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One piece unless a 139" wb eight passenger sedan.
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1949-54 Plymouth and Dodge.
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There is an "oilite" filter under the steel cover you can see in the tank.
The filters plug up and it's a 50/50 chance of getting it to flow like new.
I have heard of people pushing a strong flexible steel rod supposedly breaking the filter apart then using a new external filter.
Good 20 gallon 8 cylinder tanks are near impossible to find.
A new 17 gallon six cylinder tank with matching straps and fuel sender will fit right in place of the 8 tank if worse comes to worse.
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#1 is at 7:00 on the C39 engine.
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Chrysler 1952 Fluid Matic Drive Fluid Torque Drive Engine Oil Fed Torque Converter Video
in Technical
Posted
You know what Blue...
I had a 52 Saratoga too.
I forgot about that additional 51-52 access plate!
I also had a 1951 NewYorker, Fluid-Matic.
A 1952 NewYorker Fluid Torque Drive and a couple 1953 Chryslers.. a NewYorker and an Imperial. Both had the FTD.
Still have the complete engines and transmission assemblies out of those once running cars.
I have way too many old Chryslers and parts!
I am forgetting all I used to know!
Older age I guess...🥴
Thanks for posting that additional access plate picture!