c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Those ring gear welds have to be carefully be cut to remove the ring gear.
Also the ring gear needs to be carefully positioned and re-welded.
Welds equal to maintain FD balance.
Be sure you need a ring gear to solve your problem.
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Plain answer...nope. No high flow WP.
So as long as the block and radiator are clean and have good flow...and the proper thermostat with proper reading temp gauge the car should run temp wise just fine.
Oh and a rust free clean water distribution tube and proper timing.
This assuming the engine runs out well at all speeds.
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There are seven 1-5/8" core plugs.
Five on the drivers side, one on the front behind the engine support plate and one at the back between the block and bell housing.
Rear core plug shown...
Front and rear factory installed core plugs on the Chrysler flathead 265 six are brass. No need to replace unless clean out or rebuild.
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Not too impressed..Interior is well...Plain, poorly done and kinda ugly sorry to say.
But each to his own😉
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With no electrical to tbe transmission driving the car if it won't upshift it's too low of trans oil pump pressure or a damaged input shaft, a blocker ring and direct speed blocker sleeve.
You need a new NOS MoPar parts to fix it 100%.
I ised to do lots of these m5/m6 transmissions.
BTW..Idle speed and oil levels must be correct for proper upshifts with electrical hooked up too.
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I remember doing a lot of slant six distributor drive gears, valve adjustments and exhaust header leak repairs back in the day.
Good runners though.
Oh...Gotta watch for cowl rust through...water onto the fuse block.
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Lexol leather conditioner has been around for over 40 years...
Use to use it a lot back on the early 70's..
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Also 1946-48 Chrysler C39 eight cylinder radiators are tube and fin...NOT HONEYCOMB!🤣
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The clutch disc can only be installed the correct way in a fluid drive coupling.
The disc cannot be put in backwards.
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Slotted side of piston is installed opposite of valve side of engine.
Not on the valve side.
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A properly installed factory seal cannot fall out.
A modern replacement seal without the steel reinforcement... all bets are off.
Pictures required.
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Take it out, check the shaft for side play...probably will find none.
Pull the cover wash it out with brake cleaner. Clean up the points with contact cleaner.
A couple drops of oil on the shaft. Re-install the governor back in the trans and on you go.
They are a really trouble free unit except for occaisionally seeing a tiny bit of old oil on the points.
The trans cannot be over filled.
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There are no oil seals used in these 1946-53 M-5/M-6 governors....
Too much oil in the transmission or completely wiped out shaft or bushing will let large amounts of excessive oil quickly into the points cover.
I have never come across a severely worn shaft/bushing.
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No one should trust "that" culprit...he's a hoser.
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The governor most likely is good as long as it's contacts are clean of oil and assembled correctly and the original good cover gasket is used.
A different thickness or no gasket will change the transmission upshift speed.
With the wire disconnected from the governor stud... then connecting one lead of an ohm meter to the stud, othwr meter lead connected to the governor case you have a very low ohm continuity reading. Say less than 1/2 ohm. Mine shows .4 ohms.
Meaning the points are closed and making good contact.
To see.if the govermor points open drive the car up to about 17 mph in high range ...the points should open up, digital meter will show "OL" meaning open continuity or over load.
Slow back down under 5 mph meter should read less than 1/2 ohm meaning points closed as they should when coming to and stopped.
Same testing can be done on the bench.
Just have to spin the shaft quickly with your fingers a couple times to see that the meter shows "OL" when you spin the shaft fast enough.
Simple test.
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8 hours ago, 46 woodie said:
The Ford Sportsman also had hydraulic windows from 1946 to 1948. Most of the design and engineering was from the Lincoln.
That must have been awful when fluid leaked inside the doors or 1/4 panel and dribbled out all over the bottom wood door frame staining the wood.😒
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All 1949-53 M-6 Gyro-Matic governors are the same regardless of what car said transmission is in.
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Won't fit a DeSoto...
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Not much in a Fluid Drive Coupling...just two grape fruit halves and bellows/and graphite ring seal up to middle of 1950.
Some pics...
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A rare D41 3 passenger cpe with the M-6!
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I have never seen one of these governors full of oil.
It is typical for the smallest amount of of to get into the governor and contaminate the points after years of service but that's it.
Is the transmission over filled?
Unscrew the governor and drain it out.
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What body style Wayfarer?
Rare to ever see a Gyro-Matic M-6 in one.
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Typically a seal retaining plate is used on 1941 Chryslers rear outer seals.
The seal in that plate with the five mounting holes seals on the inner hub of the rear brake drum, not on the axle shaft...
But you are installing a seal into the backing plate and the seal seals on the axle shaft likeb1946 and later MoPar cars.
As fornthe inner axle housing oil seal...
You have to pull the axle out...it's a tight fit (tapered Timkin roller bearing).
Use a slide hammer with a seal hook to remove it.
Carefully install the new proper seal supporting the seal face fully till seated in housing.
Check the axle seal surface too for wear and pitting.
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48 DeSoto New problem. Starter pinion grinds and clashes half of the time.
in Technical
Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)
I would install that starter...remove the lower bell housing cover,
Use a remote starter and just really see what the pinion gear is actually doing.
Have done this before on 40's FD MoPar cars and straight clutch trucks...easy.