c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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I still have that Stitt's Guidebook some where!
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The only issue with older Sioux seat grinder is trigger switch failure after many years of good service then failing.
The correct switch is not available anywhere that I know of.
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You have no good twisting force on that front crankshaft 1-13/16" nut.
Use the ring gear/large screw driver to try to turn it over...not easy access or the easy quick way to see if it is truly stuck or free is to put a battery in it and while watching the fan ...blip the starter once or twice..fan won't move at all obviously if the engine is seriously stuck.
If the fan moves ...well there you go.
The valves could also stick.
Spray lots of aerosol lube down the intake before and while cranking over to lube valves...cylinders.
On long sitting engines I use a pressure oil tank to prelube the engine bearings...
Hopefully that eight will crank or turn over...looks like it's been in decent dry storage
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Those LUV trucks never needed oil changes....all you did was keep adding oil....they leaked so much.
I like the back side of the sign though.
Bad memories..Chevy LUV's
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1948-50 Dodge truck 218ci engine.
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Tough part to find.
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Hope not. Running too lean.
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400-500 degree's is what I typically find when doing random checks on my cars and trucks...40's, 50's MoPars.
Mine don't glow red though.
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I have read about the Sparton motorized horns...Chrysler's Highlander Four Tone ....
A long detailed article in Old Cars...
They can be difficult to repair.
A very rare accessory.
Other cars used that four trumpet horn too...different songs for different cars too.
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One in a hundred million to ever find an original Chrysler with those Highlander horns.
Certainly have seen many Highlander Chrysler cars through 1950.
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That bell housing is DT.
Most likely a truck 5 speed housing.
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3 hours ago, AdamInNH said:
Tell me about your 4 post lift. Which one do you have? Also, tell me about the jacks and jack platforms. Would you buy the very same lift again?
AI have a 2005 Rotary 12,000LB. commercial extended length lift..model SMO123EL2...22'9" OAL. Open end.
I also have a 2010 BendPak model HD14TLX.......14,000lb extended length and extra tall lift. 19-1/2' runway length.
Also has two RJ7 rolling 7000LB. air jacks.
The lifts are long so as I can drive and move cars any which way under them.
The posts are so wide and so long as not to be in the way.
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IMO if you are older 2 posts suck!
I hate crawling on the floor setting pads.......
having to to move vehicles forward...whoops now back a bit...oh shit now I need to floor jack it sideways 4" so the rt front pad hits the frame etc.
Also have to remember on two posters to generally un latch the doors/ tops on older convertibles so the door striker and latches don't tear apart because of frame flex.
On old the cars I use both 2 and 4 posters.
I like the quickness of driving right on the 4 post and using dual rolling Jack's for most all service ...a must for exhaust etc.
I only use the extended high lift limo 4 posters for my vintage car shop work.
Yeah in a Ammco or Firestone shop... 2 post for all but alignments.
This ought to put some fire in this thread🤣
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My old Dodge I've had for 35 years...mostly now retired from hard labor...
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I do this....just a engine dolly, radiator quick attached,a stand for battery and some fuel...break in ....runs smooth.
Nothing fancy...
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Do as F&J says....if the voltage shoots up 8 to 15 volts or more generator is good.
Then your problem is more than likely a voltage regulator...
Re- polarize the generator...
Make sure the generator regulator wiring looks like it has not been cut up sliced etc.
Dirty regulator points maybe corroded...those closed contacts a delicate issue to deal with if you have never done it.
A clean NOS factory Autolite regulator is the way I do these regulator jobs.
Hunt them down on ebay etc.
Modern chinese regulators are junk.
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I have had this same 1950 Newport for 45 years...
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It bolts to the passenger side of the lower bell housing cast iron dust cover.
It's the exhaust header pipe heat shield.
The speedo cable clips to it also.
1946-1948..
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I once put that sane typical parts store wire in my 50 Plymouth when I was a kid....car quit running..
The cause...that stiff replacement wire.
No ground..No spark.😏
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The original Autolite ground wire is copper strand.
Extremely fine strand...guessing maybe 40 strands of wire.
The wire has a cloth jacket too.
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Yes a wire should be there.
But it needs to be a very flexible very fine strand wire....it's a breaker plate ground wire.
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Putting up with my brother and me....
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That part is 1953-54 ..DeSoto and Chrysler only.
Pillar ..Folding Top Left...
MoPar Part# 1525853
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That will be tough to find....
Find a good aluminum welder?
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car lifts
in General Discussion
Posted
If you are older and retired....saved money for retirement...have no need to crawl on the shop floor....
Buy a four post and buy the rolling air jack if your lift has air lock release.
Air/hydraulic jacks are fast and require no effort to to raise the chassis off the runways.
Hand pump rolling Jack's or bottle Jack's on a tray....you deserve better than that.