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c49er

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Posts posted by c49er

  1. The clutch in your FTD is a 10".

    A bang.... then the trans pops out of high gear either range in the M6 transmissioncoyld be caused by...

    ***weak transmission oil pressure (less than 40lbs)

    ***transmission oil pump drive gear pin possibly loose /worn.

    Could cause the oil pump to not rotate.

    There's a service bulletin on this issue...doubt this is your issue.

    ***worn input shaft/direct speed blocker ring and sleeve...pointed syncro gear teeth get worn causing popping out of gear.....opping out oy high gear vauses the small synco teeth to  get worn down quickly

    ***Possibly oily governor points/ weak solenoid / or Wiring ussues .

    The FTD "converter" only transmits engine power to the hydraulically operated M6 transmission.⁹

    It should not cause the transmission to suddenly drop out of high gear.

    A picture of M5/M6 parts/gears that get quickly damaged when popping out of high gear..

    The "Imperial Web Pages" site has some info as does the youtube "MyMopar.com" site search way back to find the 1949-52 transmissin and FD , FTD service video's.

     

    NOS parts required on M5 and  6 Chry Des trans for proper upshifts (2).JPG

    Blake C38 M5 trans (34).JPG

    46-52 M5 M6 3rd direct clutch sleeve assembly (5).JPG

    M5 governer 018.JPG

  2. It's sad the 1949-52 Chrysler Crown Imperial 145" long wheelbase cars don't get much respect.

    So expensive to restore...not much love.

    Please follow thru and give it a new rolling life!

    ...BTW those Ausco-Lambert  four wheel disc brakes will be very expensive to rebuild..

    Parts to rebuild...naw..all rebuild work will have to be custom done by someone who lnows them.

     

  3. On 12/15/2022 at 9:52 AM, dc dodge said:

    if some looking a  Head for the Dodge truck 413 six cylinder i have one in Oregon for sell

    it the big one in the photo lol , email my dc@dctruckparts.com

    dc

     

    297786630_10222378055027950_3259894017522363935_n.jpg

    What's the seven digit part number on the head?

  4. Two things as mentioned above are most important for these "Hydraulically Operated" M-5 transmissions to auto up shift...

    1st....idle speed must be close to 450 rpm..

    2nd...transmission 10W oil full to the bottom threads of the filler plug hole on the passenger side of the case.

    With these two items assured of....

    With the relay fuse out and a quick road test starting out in high range...

    Accelerate up to 20mph and let off the gas for say 2 seconds.

    The M-5 transmission should instantly click/clunk into 4th gear...that's it.

    If it doesn't auto upshift there is an internal transmission hydraulic oil pressure issue or a internal mechanical problem...

     

    • Like 2
  5. Pressure bleeding with the older style ball type tank.

    It is so fast and positive bleeding, flushing out a system compared to the vacula..

     I have both...I prefer the steel pressure tank type using the shop air hose to pressure it up.

    The modern plastic garden sprayer pump up tanks are slow and clunky to use .... their adapters are cheap and can leak.

    Have done many many system bleeds and flushes.

    JMO...

     

  6. The "Hydraulically Operated" M-5 Chrysler transmission if in good operating condition can be checked to see if it will auto upshift....

    By just removing the 30 amp trans relay fuse...just drive off and imediately let off the gas...should instantly upshift.

    It will not downshift at any time with the fuse removed untill at a complete stop with the clutch in.

    Do not back up during this test with the fuse removed.

    This is only to test the hydraulic upshifting of the M-5 transmission.

    As mentioned idle speed and oil level needs to be proper.

    • Like 1
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