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Posts posted by c49er
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The main thing to make this car a wise purchase is if the buyer has enough skill/tools and $$ to get it back on the road.
If not then he will have to pay the big bucks....this will kill the deal.
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I have done so many head bolt and head stud jobs...
Seems o matter what penetrant you use, how much blue tip, careful firm hammering, time spent waiting ...
you still cannot be sure of success getting a head bolt or stud out in one piece.
Have driiled out and welded onto a lot of broken off bolts and studs over the years.
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A carburetored engine will start with out a choke.
The choke helps it start quicker and run smoother when cold.
The OP has breifly had this engine running.
The choke is not his main problem at this point.
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4 lb. Max.
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Some sellers are so lazy.
He says all it needs....a modulator and so easy to install...if true he should do it to make an easy quick sale.
Jeez lazy sellers!
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My Kroil is mostly great but the cans seem to run out of propellant before fluid.🤫
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Good luck...your're going to need a lot of it.
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The wiring (tecently done) is a mess...don't buy it unless you can road test it on a good long drive thoroughly.
The "Tip-Toe" shift transmission with Fluid Drive better upshift and downshift properly.
Those brake and clutch pedal pads are really worn too.
Have a very knowledgeable old car mechanic check it over carefully including using a hub puller to check the front and rear brakes.
Steering wheel is all broken and crackednunder thatbwheel cover.
Love the front carpet.🤩
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A common issue on the early diaphram shifted Vaca-Matic M-4 trans not up shifting is a ruptured diaphram.
MoPar Part #868082.
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Easy to clean up those early 50's MoPar T/S switches.
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Your collar doesn't look like you could easily put the indicator on it.
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I still do need one...sorry I just saw this!
Maybe I'm too late?
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Guess the owner didn't realize you shouldn't keep driving a vehicle if the clutch is slipping? I can immagine the smell and engine revving up..poor beautiful Plymouth.
Good quality job on the repair!👍
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Tomorrow I will look at a 53 Chrysler to see how his is set up.
I am curious.
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They only made a little over 200 of the 1951-52 NewYoker wagons..a very rare car.
I knew of one here in the Seattle area years ago.
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Ken77 has a 1930 Chrysler 66 series....looked his profile up.
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JC Auto Restoration...sells parts for 50's to 60's MoPar's.
Plenty of experience with NewYorker, 300's Impeials and even your rare Crown Imperial with factory Ausco-Lambert disc brakes.
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I have never changed the fluid in the FD couplings in my FD cars...and feel no need to.
My FTD car...yes I have changed the fluld because of it's many seals and oil pump.
JMO.
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5 hours ago, Fred Schmitt said:
Maybe, I'm missing something! Some posts indicate engine oil and converter share oil. On mine I don't see how. My oil dipstick says only 5 quarts. I right to assume that only my engine gets oil and the transmission gets oil. Nothing else?
You got it right.
Your engine DS says 5 quarts.. = non FTD system.
So just drain and refill the Fluid Drive coupling itself. Forget the Fluid Torque Drive instructions.
Combined Engine oil has nothing to do with your "Fluid-Matic fluid Drive coupling.
Your 53 New Yirker is no different than a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker as to changing the FD fluid.
Fuel Pump
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
"Then and Now Automotive" has quality kits or will rebuild your pump.
They also show their rebuilders doing video's of most all fuel pumps.