c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Jim up in Lynnwood had your cars.
I recently sold my 46 NewYorker 3 pass cpe.
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I have used a lot of silicone DOT5 in my old cars and in customers.
Pour it slow ...bleed it slow....whether by pedal or pressure tank.
Always use all new hoses and cups if installing DOT 5 if the system had 3 or 4. Flush or replace anything contaminated with the DOT 3 or 4.
Never have had trouble getting a good firm pedal..
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Seen many of these manifolds with the factory inserts....mainly 1948 and older MoPar sixes..
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Smooth twisting force is nothing like impact force when removing these type of hub and drums.
Impact vibrations make it much easier for these hubs with drums pop loose.
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Probably this tank fitting...
Bubble flare and special tube nut...
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The outer enfs are the same from the mif/late 30's to 1950.
There are several center sections types using either 2 or 4 bolt head pipes.
1946-50 8's are 4 bolt header pipe.
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I agree about using no heat...and leaving the hub nut on loose.
Some hints....use a high quality three or five leg puller...make sure the large fine thread puller screw shaft is perfectly inline with the axle shaft.
If not ..even a couple degree's off you will loose a lot of pulling power.
If the puller you are using only has the hex on the end and requires using a socket and a breaker bar....it's going to be very difficult and slow going.
The good pullers ( say Snap-on/ OTC/Blue Point) use a dog bone on the puller screw that you wack with a hammer.... Not a typical claw hammer...you need to use a real hammer like a 4lb. mini-sledge and hit the dog bone like a pro with deliberate strong and very hard accurate hits.
The drum and hub cannot rotate at all during removal or you will lose too much impact force. Tighten up the shoes to lock the drum and prevent turning.
Myself..I just use my hand clasped over the drum and backing plate holding the drum from rotating.
If you don't have the dog bone style puller- just the hex nut type...the easy way getting the drum to pop loose is to use a high quality , high ft lbs. 1/2" impact gun with 3/8" air hose @150-175lbs pressure.
And...you must use the proper heavy impact socket.
All tapered axle style drums -whether it's big 14" Packards, 12" Chrysler Imperials or 300's , or the little 10" Plymouth drum/hubs..the drums will pop off with out heat or waiting a day two or three.
I know most don't have the tools or experience on removing these difficult stuck on drums.
Just some info on how I have learned to do them for the last 50 plus years.
I have removed hundreds and hundreds of these drums over the years...slowing just a bit these days though.😄
Yes..The drums will come right off using good technique and tools.
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Need a good picture of it....
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I would doubt new frums manufactured overseas...probably in China would be balanced.
I would bet they need to be checked for balance too as big and heavy as they are made out of cast iron.
Should be checked for running true also.
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Ooooh....not good🤨
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On your C46 T&C it does run over the floor along side the frivets side rubber step sill mat..but under the carpet.
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Try brillman.com
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Same here but closer up in Washington...
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No....it won't work if your Dodge has the Fluid Drive coupling.
The trans shown is for the std clutch/flywheel cars. Shorter and smaller input shaft.
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As I recall there is a upholstered metal door too that hides/finishes off the lower portion of the arm rest.
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My 53 Dodge 4 ton has a hand crank..
Way too hard to turn over...413 six.
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Terrible idea for a novice.
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It comes out from under.
Remove the mounting studs.
It's tight but keep trying....it will come out.
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What bolt or screw is stripped?
Fits what car or truck?
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Early Simpli-Matic transmissions used rubber diaphram using vacuum to shift into high gear.
The rubber diaphrams were prone to failure so the piston type came out in late 1941.
Ii was a 4" vacuum cylinder with a large piston and leather wiper seal.
a much better trouble free design.
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That's the proper MoPar one you want!
Good going👍
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Flat cam lobe or two?
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The original radiator is a honey comb radiator...can't rod it out.
To clean the block out 100% you need to remove at minimun the lower two soft plugs and also the water distribution tube.
Take the radiator to a rad shop and have a flow test done to see it's condition of blockage then go from there.
Your P23 Belvedere uses no factory shroud...shouldn't need one at all.
Bumpers Chrysler Windsor 1948
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted · Edited by c49er
Spell check (see edit history)
Ok...I thought you got them.
I just heard he's trying to sell his 58 Imperial...he's over in the Tri-Cities now.
Yes...C38 and C39 bumpers and especially any of the guards are really tough to find in good condition.