c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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The imput shaft and gear on the end are one piece.
12 teeth count for 1946-48 M-5 transmissions.
If it is worn so is the blocker ring and clutch sliding sleeve behind it.
You need to look for damaged rounded and worn teeth carefully.
Pull the 2 bolt plate at the rear of the transmission and pull out the tube screen filter and see what metal if any is trapped in it.
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It's all about how good the wood is...
Good Pictures needed to advise.
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Mopar# right..1302965
Mopar# left.....1302966
Good luck.
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This is a picture of the 1949 T&C tail lenses..
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Maybe we want to talk about wheel and master cylinders for more fun on the Jag..😁
Maybe pour some brake fluid drier in the system..
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Those are tough ones to find though not ad bad as a 50 T&C.
Years back someone reproduced the ribbed 49 T&C lenses.
You mighy contact Dennis Bickford of Vintage Woodworks in New Mexico.
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There is a lot more than a battery to be concerned about waking this Jaguar up.😏
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There is a latching pawl...it's all explained in the shop manual.
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That hose looks really old...you had someone watching over you...
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Get the correct dis-assembly/assembly and stem clearance spec info from the factory 1941-48 Chrysler shop manual. manual.
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I don't think the seller really knows how to fix the problem...just another car he needs to get the most cash out and with the least effort and repair cost.
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"Then and Now Automotive" has quality kits or will rebuild your pump.
They also show their rebuilders doing video's of most all fuel pumps.
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The main thing to make this car a wise purchase is if the buyer has enough skill/tools and $$ to get it back on the road.
If not then he will have to pay the big bucks....this will kill the deal.
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I have done so many head bolt and head stud jobs...
Seems o matter what penetrant you use, how much blue tip, careful firm hammering, time spent waiting ...
you still cannot be sure of success getting a head bolt or stud out in one piece.
Have driiled out and welded onto a lot of broken off bolts and studs over the years.
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A carburetored engine will start with out a choke.
The choke helps it start quicker and run smoother when cold.
The OP has breifly had this engine running.
The choke is not his main problem at this point.
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4 lb. Max.
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Some sellers are so lazy.
He says all it needs....a modulator and so easy to install...if true he should do it to make an easy quick sale.
Jeez lazy sellers!
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My Kroil is mostly great but the cans seem to run out of propellant before fluid.🤫
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Good luck...your're going to need a lot of it.
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The wiring (tecently done) is a mess...don't buy it unless you can road test it on a good long drive thoroughly.
The "Tip-Toe" shift transmission with Fluid Drive better upshift and downshift properly.
Those brake and clutch pedal pads are really worn too.
Have a very knowledgeable old car mechanic check it over carefully including using a hub puller to check the front and rear brakes.
Steering wheel is all broken and crackednunder thatbwheel cover.
Love the front carpet.🤩
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A common issue on the early diaphram shifted Vaca-Matic M-4 trans not up shifting is a ruptured diaphram.
MoPar Part #868082.
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Easy to clean up those early 50's MoPar T/S switches.
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Your collar doesn't look like you could easily put the indicator on it.
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Your shifter collar looks different than this 53...odd...it looks cool though!
47 Chrysler Windsor jumps out of high gear when load applied
in Technical
Posted
Time go go inside of the trans I think.
I think damaged input shaft blocker ring and sleeve....and or input shaft bearing.
But you should hear that in nuetral idling.