c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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This one...M-5 trans relay. #HRM 4102 Autolite.
I would open it up a see what's wrong with it...
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Slow that idle down to 600-650.
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The MoPars are a much better engineered car than the very common Chebby.
But folks adore those Chebbies.
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Read what Joe stated...all true.
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As above....Olsen's.
Installed a head gasket from Olsen's on a 385 about 8 years ago...has been just fine.
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Dodge hoods... each side lifts up...
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You might try JC Auto Restoration in Lynnwood Washington...they specialize in late 50's early 60's Chryslers..
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Search a lor more on the net.
You will find what you want.
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You will pay dearly through SMS.
Plus wait months or more for your order.
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Not an easy car to repair or find parts for.
Dashes/instruments are difficult to repair and work on...
Some have complicated swivel seats.
Centerline power brakes...
AC system repairs can be very costly.
Power windows...power door locks? On and on.
Need a lot of back up to get one of these very luxurious cars up and going correctly.
Jump in and hang on for the fun ride!
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You can connect to the ammeter terminal on the ignition switch.
1946-48 Chrysler wires it directly to the ammeter.
Either way will work fine.
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I'd look at the 1941-48 chrysler shop manual wiring diagram.
The clock is shown in it.
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Acme Headling Co.... If still around an old company in Los Angeles.
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Great ending to a difficult PS leak situation.
Thanks for the solution update!
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Is that a GS340 hood?
Mainly because of the red hood scoops..
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Engine is a later 1949-54 passenger car engine...Chrysler 251/265.
Chrysler used that aluminum oil fiter style housing.
That truck looks to be not driveable and really rusty....updated price...maybe if lucky $1000.00...and a double maybe. 😒
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This truck has five 1-1/2" lug nuts on the wheels...typical 1-1/2 thru 2 ton "W" series Dodge trucks.
Shown truck will most likely be a model WF, WG, or a WH model.
I say it's probably a WF or a WG because of the std 4 speed trans.
A WD will be a six lug nut wheel using 1" lug nuts.🙂
If that modified truck will start, run and drive @ 60 on the highways with ease that will definately help sell it.
These heavier trucks don't have any excess power especially this one being overdriven using the brownie with OD gear.
Generally 45-50 mph is tops in one of these heavier trucks with the 4 or 5 speed and 2 speed axle.
5.83/8.11 is the typical axle ratio.
Another important cost iten is the tires on this truck..either 7.50" X 20" or 8.25" X 20".
The cost to replace those tires is huge.
Brakes? Does the booster work...do they work safely?
The truck needs to be cleaned up and ready to drive to sell it.
$1500.00 max if it's not driveable on the roads/highway right now IMO.🙂
If it was a WJ/WR 10 lug.... an easy sale.
But they are very rare and hunted down trucks.
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4 hours ago, kar3516 said:
Shelley,
If your 42 Dodge was a larger class truck with 10 lug front wheels I would buy it from you in a heartbeat; however, I’m one of a very few chasing the larger 1934 to 1947 10 lug Dodge trucks. The 5 lug trucks larger than a pickup are a bit of an in between proposition; generally top speed is 45 to 50 mph and they aren’t often in demand from the crowd that likes updated chassis and drivetrains.
Thanks,
Kent
There used to be or maybe still a WJ/WR 1946/1947 10 bolt wheei Dodge between Benton City and Yakima Washington. Was or is a runner.
281 or 331 single carb.
Haven't heard or seen pic's of it in 10+ years.
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The transmission controls might not last long running on 12 volts.
If the charging system is charging the bsttery will read 14.01 + volts at above idle checked at the battery with any volt meter.
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1939-50 Chrysler straight eight guel pumps will not fit the smaller 251 Chrysler six.
Did the amp gauge work?
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The carb kits are also available through O'Reilly's. Last ones I bought year and a half ago were about $40.00.
The kits are pretty much the same for all the Carter Ball and Ball carbs.
Not nearly as complete as the OE kits supplied back in the day.
But are just fine. You might not get the anti-stall plunger or cup in most kits.
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Originally the pump used DOT3.
These days trans fluid/ hydraulic fluids are used.
Pump reservoir is in the trunk. Probably low on fluid. Check it....add the same type of fluid ...red/clear etc.
If it needs fluid ya gotta leak.
...Does the power brake booster work?
...Exhaust manifolds can crack on those 323 eights too.
The T&C woodies are great cars!
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If you cannot carefully gently pull the temp gauge bulb out of the cylinder hed...never break or cut it off in desperation.
Just remove the core plug directly above the sender bulb and wedge it out with a screw driver.
Replace the plug with a new one. Simple.
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Chrysler 230 Flathead Rebuild and Oil
in General Discussion
Posted
I run Autolite 295's in all my 218/230 engines. Have used them for the last 40 years.
Have worked on hundreds of MoPar flatheads...six and eights.