c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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The piston must come back all the way to the steel stop plate inside the rubber boot.
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If running cheap super thin china tubes a flap is a good idea... narrow one as used on the old OE Motor wheel wire wheels.
Tubes today are so cheap...thanks engineers and China for making an effort to keep us old car folks safe.👎
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Try removing the rubber bumper for extra travel..
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His piston is slightly different (late 30's MoPar) than what should be in your 50.
The piston must come all the way back to the rubber boot plate stop.
This because the smaller hole relief port hole must not be blocked by the piston.
If it is the brakes will not release properly.
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Be careful the linings don't delaminate from the shoe.
I have had it happen.
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Working at the Enco gas station wearing a Enco Tiger suit giving away Tiger Tails with every fill up..
Oh and glasses and plates too.
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I have most all the 1937 to 1960 MoPar Parts books but have never ever seen a export parts book in over 40 years!
Sorry to say.
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That is a very very high quality , expensive hub/drum puller and the best one to use.
Lube up the puller screw and apply a dab of grease on the flat end of the axle.
Mount the puller to the drum evenly and flush.
Yes as mentioned leave the nut on the axle shaft loose minus the washer to prevent the drum from popping off the axle shaft possibly landing on the floor or your foot. Also can prevent axle thread flare or damage.
Then man up using a 2-1/2 lb hammer.
Hit the dog bone using BIG HARD SWINGS...5 to 10 hits the drum will come off if you hit hard enough.
I also firmly squeeze my hand holding the drum to the backing plate too to absorb/soak up the hammer shocks.
Done hundreds of these over the years as a mechanic.
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2 hours ago, Doozer said:
Glad you’re enjoying them. I’ve been encouraged by the reactions that these period photos I own have been getting. Lots of likes so I’ll keep posting. Thanks, Doozer
Not sure I'd want "V-D" spark plugs!
And look at that guy? Or woman in the
V-D outfit😬
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Glad you can do the job with confidence and for once someone does have the shop manual!
So the way I do this job..
I remove the m/cylinder's leaving the floor pan and pedals still in the cars...
I......
**Disconnect the M/cyl. push rod..
**Disconnect the clutch fork rod
**Remove both brake lines at the rear of the cylinder
**Remove the two pedal pivot shaft horse shoe clips with the special
Miller clip removal tool....Or use a 13/16" open end wrench...
**Remove the the M/cylinder mounting bolts
**Wiggle,move, twist the cylinder forward/backward and sideways...to enable pedals to slide off pivot shaft.
They will come off this way...have done many for customers over the years.
**Remove master cylinder.
**Press pivot shaft out of master cylinder...it's supposed to be s press fit
Now......
You CAN hone the master cylinder in the car if you decide..
To do this...
**Remove both brake lines from rear master cylinder plug
**Remove the large hex plug being careful as piston spring and check valve will want to pop out
**Remove cylinder push rod and two slotted screws retaining rubber dust boot..
**Remove piston
**Hone cylinder
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Sleeve it or replace it with a new one.
It most likely will have a rusty pitted area at the bottom of the bore....you will not be able to remove completely by honing.
...and it will probably seep brake fluid.
If you are a pro....do the job with out pulling the floor pan...
if you are a novice 50 Chrysler owner remove the floor pan...take plenty of pictures.
You also might need to use a press to push the clutch and pedal shaft out of the old master cylinder ..then push it into the new or resleeved one.
You should also own a factory shop manual if you really like this car and want to keep it and fix it right.
I have four 1950 Chrysler's.
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The smell of hot Evans coolant...dripping out from the overflow...in the smallest amount is most annoying...back to green.
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I wish decorated tool displays were that awesome today.👍
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What make and model number of booster is he trying to sell you?
Why does he what your old core...
If he cannot rebuild it?
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On the outside just down from the top curve of frame towards the rear.
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The engine # is on the LR frame just as ply33 says...
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The axle puller on the seat is worth 20 bucks.
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Best bet maybe remove a couple main and rod caps just to see if the bearings are completely dry.
Some assembly lubes we're white assembly paste....I've seen that dry up and turn hard after time.
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The engine really should be running before you will see much oil oozing/ spashing in the lifter area's of both straight 8's.
If I were you I would use an engine pre-oiler pressure tank..to pre lube both engines thoroughly as they have been sitting so long. Turning the engine over 90 degree's at a time while pushing oil into the main galley. Running 2-3 quarts into the engine.
The 323 being hard to turn over is concerning.
The 385 looks to have progressive wound valve springs...tighter wound coil at one end. Generally the tighter wound end always goes to the block not the valve retainer.
The 323's are this way as are all the MoPar sixes up to and including the 377/413 truck sixes.
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He's probably looking for the special fittings at the wheel cylinders or up by.the M/cylinder....can be tough to find.
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High quality commercial lifts do not de-rate load capacity on WB length...
Most all hobby lifts do.
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If you are a real car guy...a lift and a good air compressor are a must...JMO.
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Yes...just barely enough to push the shaft out of the handle....once down to the little washer...remove it and see if it will push out...if not continue just enough till it will push out. Grind it flat as you go as you will need some of the shaft to still stick up beyond the counter sunk hole in the handle.
This so you can drill and tap or re-flare the shaft end to retain it firmly but still able to rotate that shaft with out excessive looseness. The cup spring/ wave washer on it when new always keeps tension on the shaft so there is no loose shaft play.
Hopefully you can reassemble just as tight as it was before you have taken it apart.
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Why were 1935-on Chrysler products timed ATDC?
in Technical
Posted
I assume you are referring to the 323 Chrysler eights...
I too have wondered about the two degree's ATDC setting.
My 1953 Didge truck with the big 413 six is also 2 degree's ATDC.
Two barrel Stromberg AAV carbs were used on the 1946 thru 47 Chrysler eights...a single barrel Carter Ball and Ball on the 1948 engine. Both variations still set at 2 ATDC.
But 1949-50 Chrysler eights with the single barrel Ball and Ball carbs were now set at TDC.
I have always set them a couple degree's before TDC especially needed now days because of the ethanol fuel.
Wish I had a good answer for you.