c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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A real "Commercial Rotary" or a DIY home owner full import Rotary branded under different names?
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I've had a HD 14 Bendpak for 11 years... never a problem.. They custom built it for me too. Extra long, extra tall 2 rolling jacks.
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Some more description pics...some pieces are not original...just shown to show orientation/description
I don't have any floppy's apart with all good parts....very hard to come by.
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If your floppy handles all feel tight.. not loose and they actually feel like the floppy spring works (holds/ pulls the floppy) back against the handle then all your handles should have all usable parts..
*Flipper spring
*detent plunger
*detent plunger spring
*handle swivel pivot shaft bore not loose/worn
*swivel pivot shaft not worn
*swivel pivot shaft cupped spring washer (small tension washer ...keeps firm tension on swivel shaft while turning floppy). Right under flared end of shaft.
The detent plunger and spring fit into a drilled 3/4" deep hole hole in the plastic insert. Helps keep the floppy under firm spring tension when you grab/ use it.
When the insert is pulled out of the chrome floppy housing the plunger and spring will want to come out possibly fast...watch it.
"Will the swivel stud and cross pin with 2nd spring come out through the floppy, out the plastic insert end?"
.........yes it will
I have both drilled and tapped the swivel stud using a 6-32 screw and re-flared same to retain and tension the swivel stud. Re-flaring is very difficult to do properly.
Parts are not available unless you are good at sourcing them from commercial sources. Don't damage the good parts you have.
This is not an easy project unless you are mechanically well skilled and have total confidence going in head first!
My pictures are of one real nice complete original handle and pieces from three cores...none had the plunger and springs...I laid out just to give you an idea what these handles consist of.
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You have to use a very high quality correct sized punch .060" to push that tiny short pin down .330" so the plastic can be removed. I used a stubby .060" punch when I had to take one apart.
I never had to drill the pin out.
Be careful when removing the plastic insert as the plunger and spring could shoot out or fall out upon removal.
There is no other hole than the tiny pin insertion hole....060".
In pic #4 it sure did look like it. I
re-posted better pics of the floppy chrome part.
Also you have to carefully grind down or drill out the end of the swivel pivot shaft stud as that's necessary to remove it from the handle shaft. Be careful not to damage the cup spring washer.
With the plastic insert pulled out of the floppy the swivel stud and cross pin with 2nd spring will come out.
The pin you drove into the plastic insert is there forever.
To re-install the plastic insert flip it over opposite what it was...
Insert it into the re-assembled handle...drill a new .060" hole down into the plastic...insert a new .400" long .060" pin back through the original floppy pin hole just flush as original.
The plastic insert is the very last part to install when re-assembling one of these handles. The swivel stud,spring plunger etc.all has to be installed first.
I'll let you decide when and how....
I'm wore out.
These handles were never made to be taken apart and repaired. You bought a new one at the dealer.
The handles I just took apart were missing the plunger and correct spring...very common. These handles could be easily worn out if not carefully lubed and used gently.
Pretty but not practical.
Some more pics.
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Pivot stud 1st and 3rd pics.
3rd pic shows flared over end. Some flared ends of the stud are just flat.
Somewhere I have the plastic insert to show but can't find it.
This is now an easy project to take these apart and then get them back together tight and operating like new.
A very costly and hard part to find piece in good condition.
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Push the tiny pin into the plastic insert...then pull the plastic insert out.
The flared over pivot stud needs to be drilled out to remove the lavalier floppy handle. You will need to make new pivot studs to re-assemble.
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It's the six hour airplane trip I'm concerned about....nope.
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This thread is so lame.
Did the OP think of these items....
Do the headlights come on bright?
Do the heaflights stay on bright while trying to crank the engine?
Does the horn or heater sound strong?
Does the dome light come on bright?
Simple quick electrical system tests when not having a volt meter.
Regardless....A voltage test really needs to be done on the battery sitting and while under cranking load..
..cable connections checked cleaned well...
If the starter still will not crank...check for voltage at starter cable connection sitting and when attempting to crank engine...if full 6.2 volts at starter and still won't crank...starter contacts most likely 1st check with starter still in car... if they are OK.....next and last ...pull
starter to find deeper issue...kinda un likely need to do this last option.
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3 hours ago, RAH said:
Just Dave, Is this what you are looking for? I had one some years ago but just went out to garage and cannot find it. It has been loaned to many of the local car members over the years and somehow It has not returned. I found it at a local swap meet not long after seeing this pic in the '34 Truck repair manual. I saw that weird thing and asked the seller what the heck is that thing? He said 'don't know. I asked how much? I believe he said $15.00 and I said sold. This is one of those tools one acquires over time and use once or twice then loose it . Good Luck finding one.
That a Miller 232 steering wheel puller that also came with a thick protective leather backup collar.
I use mine occasionally.
I have a friend of has one too. Took four years to find one for him though.
It is a rare tool for sure.
I have a lot of 30s' 40's Miller MoPar service tools...use them doing mechanic work.
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Go to the p15-d24 board website....find downloads...download the copy of the over center spring tool.
Line up the three holes in the tool with the three pivot pins by adjusting the turn buckle.
Adjust the clutch fork free play to 1" first.
Shown is the factory Miller tool being used on a 1948 Chrysler T&C.
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I have a running twin carb 306 Moly Block.
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That small six sided part is the interrupter switch. It is one very costly part if you can find one. They are a single stud interrupter switch. 1949 and later are two terminal and cheap.
The drivers side fender well mounted transmission 6 volt relay # HRM-4102 is a five terminal six volt Autolite relay.
Wiring diagrams are online.
>>>>>>System will only work using six volts.
Be careful rewiring this M-5 transmission...do it exactly as the wiring diagram is shown for all 1946-48 chryslers.
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Too many wrecking yard owners want too much $$$ so possibly good projects end up getting scrapped.
They don't care.
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Do you have the OE Part # to search it online?
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Good question.
Hope they are OK...
Not a good time to be traveling.
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Yeah...
Unless it's a rare car nobody is really serious on parts or whole car..
And the shipping costs
Too bad
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Arcing brakes shoe...
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I did a restoration on a 1935 CW Airflow.
It used the same rollers but made with a stamped roller mount base.
Maybe the smaller more common Airflows used the same...possible source.
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12 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:
I am not sure what part of this photo is the best.
The ladies dress..cool
A lady driving the car cool
The house is so so cool
Cool photo!
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Arcing linings to fit drum....Misc adjusting shoes
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Types of Lockheed push rods, length and piston design and general piston height/length ..
Piston length/height measured with Starrett ball micrometer from piston push rod radius socket to rear backside of piston.
This measurement plus either return spring, piston stop button or bottom piston rubber cup determine how far the pistons can be bottomed out in front single cylinder lockheed front MoPar brake systems.
Which also can be a factor if the new brake shoes can be retracted enough.for drums to be installed.
There are also different length's of push rods that were available...generally short rods on dual cylinder front brakes... longer push rods on single cylinder rear brakes.
Over the years piston styles and push rods.... changed and got mixed up causing difficulties of drums not being able to be installed no matter how you adjusted all cams...especially if shoes are too thick..over .180" factory max spec.
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I forgot to tell you I cannot answer if piston color means anything as to size.
I have seen gold ones like yours.
I guess for future reference I should gather them all up and measure piston heights.
Won't matter as to which push rods you use. Rods sometimes are at a very slight angle. Make sure they are seated as you know.
In your case the shortest push rod is the only choice.
Use them if you have them....
I will check to see what is the shortest rods later today just to see.
I think 1-1/8" is it.
I arc the linings which I always do to to accurately pre-fit each shoe to each
drum.
Does not take too much over size lining to create drums from slipping over the shoes.
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4 post hoist recommendations
in General Discussion
Posted
I also have a 15 year old real commercial Rotary 12,000lb open front 4 poster.
A real quality lift...but$$$$.