c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Engine probably shifted because of bagged out motor mounts.
Simple adjustment on the one adjustable lever (side cover of trans) or top of reverse rod at steering column rod.
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I use a thin 9/16" 3/8" drive six point socket on a wobbly extension and also sometimes loosen the four intake to exhaust manifold bolts for a little more access.
Some 9/16" thin wall flex sockets will fit in there too.
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The OP got so depressed reading all the advice and probably committed suicide😞
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Ray Reis was a big 5th Ave owner with his Blue 3 pass S10 cpe and S10 convert.
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Some factory Honda radio's have a radio theft security code that needs to be reset if the battery has been disconnected.
No secret code to re-enter... no radio operation.
I'd leave the cables connected.
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There should be up to 2-1/2 ounces of non contaminated good quality NGLI 2 grease in your D24 front brake drum hubs.
Read your owners manual or Service shop manual. Follow the factory recommended procedure.
They will recommend short or medium fiber grease. Of course Use better modern greases.
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It's true there was a long and short (primary/secondary) lining set put out by Chrysler Corp. in 1946.
Good luck finding one of those sets. They were not used on all models and were discontinued sometime around 1950?
All linings today unless custom ordered will be full length...modern linings which IMO are too hard do not work as good as the original now mostly obsolete asbestos linings.
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It's a simple adjustment.
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The front and rear brake shoe sets are the same.
They (shoes) should be arced to fit each drum to do the brake job right.... read the shop manual and search MoPar/ Lockheed brakes on line...this will show you whats needed to fit the shoes to the drums for quicker wear in and a high firm safe pedal.
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Don't let anyone in the back seat rest there fingers over the top of the door gap while the car is driving over a severe angled driveway!
I did that and got a blister from the door gap closing up.
Park the car on a flat surface to be sure you can close the top up too.
A friend used to love those ( woody leBaron) cars and found the body structures flex.... a lot.
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Just like using a dolly in body panel work. Feel is the key.
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The Hollander book shows 1941 to 1942 cpe frames are a different part number.
It also shows the frames are the same part # 1942-48
Not sure whats the difference in the body's.
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Jesus buddy back off....I'm not trying to start a fight. I'm not trying to tell you anything.
If I was close I'd help him fix his issue and all for free.
I do that a lot for local fellow car hobbiests...I'm retired and have the time and good will...
Ihope you will some day too... God bless you says Tammy Baker.
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9 minutes ago, Stude17 said:
Read what I said. There is a big difference between "Pounding" on a pitman arm and giving it a couple of "whacks" (hits )with a hammer against a heavy dolly. Entirely up to the OP how he does it but as with all things knowing what you are doing is the key and often this only comes from experience. For what it is worth I would not do it with the box bolted to the chassis rail. Personally I would not use a pickle fork either but as there appears to be plenty of room a shell clamp could be the way to go.
Wasn't picking on you or anyone else just stating that hammering on steering gears is not a good thing. The service manuals, All Data will state this.
I've had to do jobs on cars and trucks people have damaged things because they don't know to to do the repairs right or use the wrong tools.
Good tooling makes the jobs quick and easy but good tools cost money.
Good tools can be rented when in need to do the job right.
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Be careful pounding on a Pitman arm hanging off a steering box sector shaft.... you can damage the box bearings or gears.
Also using a pickle fork can damage the gear box case.
A smooth pull is the way to go.
JMO.
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Now those are cool!^^^^^^^
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Use the correct heavy duty Pitman arm puller tool...it will pull it right off.
I do several of them every year.
You can rent one if necessary. The one shown below is a cheap Chinese one... See the jaws bending... Chinese crap. Use a good one.
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I have a set of Go-Jaks...one person can roll any car ...even big heavy Chryslers
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Never was a great car.
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That is one beautifully restored 42 Windsor 3 passenger coupe!
A couple minor issues but NICE!
Too bad this is likely another Ebay farce.
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Jeez...and I thought I knew these 3 passenger Chrysler 3 passenger coupe's!
I didn't even pick up the 1941 yet knew it was a 42 grille... getting older..............................
Scammers.
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The trans in a 1941 is the M-4 Vacamatic... the 47 is the M-5 hydraulically operated transmission.
That's a problem as the vacuum/electrical controls and shifter rods, control cable etc.differ a lot.
Using the M-4 on the 47 Engine would be a good idea.
Also the throttle linkage is mounted different.
You would need both engines and Transmissions side by side to do a swap properly.
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I'd like to see the dash and door "mottled" plastic, engine and trunk... not much info on this car.
Looks nice exterior wise though..
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Most likely driveshaft or the rear diff... ring and pinion or spider/side gears. Easy to figure out.
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6-volt Chrysler power window motors
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I parted out a 1953 Imperial 2 dr hardtop over 40 years ago for the regulators and motor assemblies..
Give me a week and I'll let you know if I still have all four of them.
1953 -54 Chrysler's should all be the same...hdtp and convertible only.
Shown is a 53-54 Seat actuator....I'll look to see if I can help on that too...