c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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The chrome is only some what valuable if near perfect... no pits and very smooth and shiny... 1949-52 Chrysler's not highly sought after.
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It seems now days don't expect your newly purchased vintage tires to last more than five years even if low low miles and kept out of the sun 90% of the time...
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Startix was used on Cords too. Not sure on the vacuum switch.
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Vacuum shifted M4 Chrysler/ DeSoto transmissions.
Late 40's early 50's Mopar vacuum operated cigarette lighter...
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My distributor is offset in my Dodge truck engine... one way only will it drop into the intermediate shaft.
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Nothing wrong with a good quality operating single master cylinder.
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What about the one off 1949 T&C hardtop supposedly made?
Where is that car....
I thought I had a lead on it back in the mid seventies....yea right!
Or the T&C six cylinder roadster ......never was produced... but John Slusar and Loyd Mayes built one and it's been around the auction market a few rounds making a lot of money.
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There is only one T&C cpe in existance... the "David Wallace" car. The first 2 dr hardtop.
Loyd Mayes owned it for awhile as have a few others... a very nice original car with a few minor touch ups over the years.
Supposedly seven were made .... no others besides the Wallace car have ever been located.
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Turn the car upside down,. no need to jack it up.
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The 1946-48 8 cylinder Saratoga, NewYorker and Imperial cars use the larger threaded bolt pin A-Arms. Sedan, cpe, and convert all the same arms upper and lower.
Six cylinder car A-Arms won't fit. Smaller threaded bolt pins.
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I have one too... excellent quality charger unlike the DIY'er chargers today.
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How many MoPar woodies do you have now?
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I have always liked the 1949 MoPar split tailgate window woody wagons... even more so on the big body cars.
That looks like it has real nice original wood too.
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Pull the front nose off with radiator...raise front of engine a couple inches... remove front pulley and timing cover to access seal.... check front pulley hub for seal wear groove and pitting.
If worn install speedi-sleeve.. install new modern seal from backside of timing cover properly.
Re-assemble reverse order.
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You wouldn't want it not to stick to the block...plugged pick up screen.
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Typical for Rainier valley.
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You are right Frank.
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That T-bird should have the factory Midland brake booster that works properly for good brakes.
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The right answer is ATF in new cylinders and new pump.
It's just a pump and hydraulic cylinders like a car lift or P/S system... use a safe, clean, cheap long lasting fluid.
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Is your water pump a "Brand New" replacement pump or rebuilt pump.
I don't see the original two zerk fittings....no drilled spot for them.
I'm curious as to how good the new 1946-50 Chrysler replacement pumps being made hold up.
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Those springs look slightly rust pitted.
They all should be replaced IMO.🙂
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" That upside down manifold system is interesting too."
Very common Chrysler Straight 8 intake/exhaust...ALL 1946-50 323 Chryslers and pretty much the same on all 323's back to 1935?
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The big 384ci. Imperial and CW Airflow engines also have a stamped steel water jacket cover that's full length on the drivers side of the engine.
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Just because it has air brakes doesn't mean a CDL in all cases....38,000 lbs though is an issue.
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1931 Chrysler CD8 Head Gasket 240CI Victor 842
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Did you call Olson's ..... I would call them.. not accept what the online catalog shows...