c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Look at the top rear of the head where the heater hose is...it would leak down to the clutch housing as would the side core plugs...lookk em over carefully.
I think if th engine has never been completely rebuilt the rear water jacket core plug is brass.
You might also pull the lower clutch housing pan and look up in there.
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Pictures of whats in the oil pan too.
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Yes pictures... before and after please.
We need to see this exciting purchase.
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Why do you really think you need to convert to 12 volt?
Those plymouths with good thick cables,battery and a good starter crank over and start fast.
I have a couple Plymouths and never a problem.
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The dome is there on all the eight cylinder and long wheel base Chrysler cars for 1949-52.
Under the dome is the frame mounedt "Vacu-Ease" brake booster.
On some early 1949-50 cars the dome was screwed down to the floor... later cars it is spot welded to the floor.
This booster applied boost and was only used on only the long wheel base 8 passenger sedans, 6 cylinder station wagons and all eight cylinder cars except the low production 145" WB Crown Imperial Limo/ 8 pass sedans and the 1950 Town and Country hard top woodie.
These low production cars used Ausco- Lambert 4 wheel disc brakes.
The 1950 T&C you are working on has or originally had these 4 wheel disc brakes and no booster was used with these rare brakes even though a booster dome is still there.
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You will most likely not find the correct rubber with that little lip that just slightly rolls over the edge of the U-channel.
If that trunk rubber is OE nice ... factory glued tight even at the bottom you have a very nice rust free 1949-52 Chrysler🙂
I have a couple of them. Both hardtops.
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On a C48 1950 Chrysler Club Coupe the gasket fits into the truck body groove channel NOT on the trunk lid say like on a 1946-48 Chrysler.
1949 on up the gasket stayed in the body channel not on the lid.
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Those are both narrow white walls😁
This is a "Wide" whitewall Denman ......always cleaned with Westleys... still looks like new.
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Hopefully no moisture damage on the trans or rear end gears.
Was it in good dry garage most of it's life?
Cars that sit long periods of time in cold moist conditions can have high $ repairs because of rust pitting on gears and bearings, stuck valves etc....hopefully this is not the case here.
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An average is .003" to .007" looking at many makes of engines back to 1936.
You might have more of an issue than the end thrust if you already have .002"+ end play as some car engines have that spec or less rear main end play.....the 1936 Cadillac
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Wow!
That's a pretty nice original looking solid car.
The P15-D24 website is the top of the line place for info and help.
I still have my first cars.. a 1951 Cranbrook (1968) and a 1952 Belvedere 2 dr hardtop I bought in 1972.
Simple good cars.
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Make sure the inside of the doors is super clean and new paint to apply DynaMat....
Otherwise if it does not stick well inside the roof or door area it will peel away..
If it happens in the doors it gets jammed up in the window mechanism...seen that a few times!
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If a car is in a damp climate bonded linings will come off the shoe.
That can call for riveted shoes.
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On 12/27/2018 at 9:20 AM, 48NWYKR said:
Yes Bob I saw the second muffler in the book, when I bought the car it only had the one and I was ok with the noise level. Still quieter than most other cars I have.
I think I made a mistake stating all New Yorker's used a rear resonator .... I checked the parts book and only the converts and limo's used the 2nd resonator muffler.
I use on on my car.
I have worked on many of these cars over the years and heard too many with cheap replacement poorly baffled noisey replacement mufflers.... I just like whisper quiet 1946-48 Chryslers..6 and 8.🙂
I'm looking forward to reading about your big adventure in the Chrysler... you will keep us informed I hope!
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Such a beauty!
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I was SO excited to learn that a fellow Dodge Meadowbrook owner was having difficulty that I was knowledged in. He was describing it so well that it was identical to an issue I had had this summer. I don’t know how to insert a connection to another thread or anything like that so I told him to look in my profile at things I had posted to find the thread I had on the topic. I remembered that I was on a Dodge forum as well so I went there and took a couple pictures of the thread I had made and put them on his thread. I felt so good that I was finally imparting my knowledge onto someone else that I was telling the people around me about it. Then I got home and reread the post that he had made and it made me think it sounded too familiar. And I found it odd that the name of the thread didn’t make sense. The second and third words were fine but the first one wasn’t even close to fitting the thread nor was it something that is used to describe the problem he was having. So I went to the other forum and looked at my original post. Sure enough, it was my post word for word. He had taken everything I had written and put it on here as if it was his. That made me very suspicious of his motives. Not to mention that he had created his profile on here less than 24 hours ago. So with all that being said, I have to wonder, what would cause someone to take a thread and copy it onto a new one as if it were their own? What is the motivation?
Edited 59 minutes ago by Meadowfleet
Misspelled two words (see edit history)The above word for word was posted on the P15-D24 Board -
Drag link is the fore and Aft rod from the steering gear pitman arm to the front bell crank arm partially shown above...this for a 49 Chrysler.
The fore & Aft rod or drag link is not available as a factory part... a common wear part...rare parts can make one.
The bell crank bolted into in the front of the frame uses two replaceable tapered roller bearings that can wear but not too common.
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Trans and clutch cover and disc are removed just like a 55 chevy....
The clutch driven plate ...part of the FD... same as a flywheel... don't even mess with it unless there is oil leaking out of the FD coupling or the face is scored or has hard spots...just clean it up well.
Find out for where the oil contamination is coming from if that is the case. Rear main or FD coupling.
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Maybe the fluid drive bellows seal is leaking a little bit and not the rear main causing oil contamination of the disc? Or maybe both..
The bellows seal in the FD is right next to the clutch disc... the 6" thick FD coupling blocks most rear main seal oil getting directly onto the clutch disc ....
There are two pilot bushings in a FD coupling too.
Careful diagnosis is a must doing this job right to fix all leaks.
The FD coupling holds 9+ quarts of fluid.
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There is an early and a late oil filter set up for 1954 chrysler... this I found in the 54 Mopar parts book. No pics of it though.
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Any 1951-54 Chrysler hemi oil filter housing and clamp is the same...
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I think someone installed not enough of the correct knobs on your radio.
You need a special dial trim knob to operate (engage) the tone shaft on the left side of your radio...#4 in red is it on one of my pictures..
Two are used on the radio..the Rt tone control wheel is different than the left tone control wheel as the rt control wheel spins loose and does nothing.
The #1 in red chrome nut cover does nothing but cover the mounting nut. It is shown from the back side...
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Fuse box
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Posted
What kind of car?????
What kind of car???? come on tell us.