Phil 32DL6

That handle in your photo is correct for a 32 DL6 sedan (and I believe coupe, too). The DK8 used different handles...like John Keiser shows. My photo shows the correct handle for a DL6 passenger side door (with key), and an aftermarket replacement handle that often shows up on eBay.

Wow...talk about timing. My wife, Pat, just told me a few minutes ago that she can make it to Hershey, so please save her a seat at the table.

It's a little more complicated with the 32s. First, there were two styles of end connectors. The earlier ones were much thinner...more like fancy carriage bolts. See the photo with the rusty parts. The later ones were much thicker and have large flat tops. See the two photos with shinier parts. I believe the clamps were the same on all of them, and both front and back bumpers of all styles, but I'd have to check when it's not dark out.

They didn't make a locking handle facing that direction. I've heard that they considered it safer to not have to linger in the street to lock the door.

After you set the valve clearance and everything seems to be running smoothly, make sure to give it a final road test by getting it up to 40mph or so for a while to get it good and hot, and also run it up a steep hill, to see if you start to get any stumbling.

As they say, "If it ain't broke...don't fix it!"

For what's it's worth...the valve clearance specs for my '32 6-cylinder, set hot, are inlet = .005, exhaust = .007. But when I set them cold at .012, I didn't get satisfactory performance until they were opened to .015. Up until then, I got some missing (from incomplete valve sealing) when the engine was fully warmed up and under load. Your situation may turn out differently, but maybe something to keep in mind. It's better to err on the wider gap side than risk burned valves.

I agree with John that it's a '31 and was getting these ready while he was posting. 31s have square dash instruments while 32s are, well...curvacious! Also note the Freewheeling knob in the center on the '32.

Thanks, Jason. John Bittence has been providing exceptional guidance and advice over the past year to ensure a smooth transition. The next issue is well underway and will feature highlights of this year's meet. In order ensure that the News remains truly YOUR magazine...all of you DBers out there around the world...please keep sending in your letters, your project news, articles, photos, tips, and flea market ads. The new addresses for submissions are: DBCNews@cox.net, or DBC News, 181 Ridge Road, Wethersfield, CT 06109. Next deadline for submissions is September 1.

Ok, since we're already a little off subject... Not really what you'd expect when accelerating to 203 mph.

Here you go.

I don't know specifically what his number stands for. My firewall plate lists the body number as 13808S. I assume the "S" stands for sedan

Actually, he will be very surprised to find much of anything in common with DeSotos & Plymouths. 1932 was a unique transition year in many ways for DBs: both parts & styling. The best way will be to cross check part numbers in the DB Master Parts List, and Hollander reprints. As far as engine color goes, I believe that the gray/green of earlier years may still have ruled. Both of my DLs have light gray (not silver) engines which may not be original.

Yep.

Safest way would be to obtain the build code, but maybe the original color is showing enough to tell. Here's a color chart of the '32 colors, plus a color scheme chart. I also have color chips with the mixing formulas on the back.

I have a set of original paint chips for the '32 series and, I believe, info on which colors (stripes, too) were used on which models.

Got some pics inside & out you can post? All models that year are rare, but I believe only around 1800 of the RS Coupes were made.

Also known as an "L-head" because of the shape of the cylinders. (Upside down L, that is.)

Just for you, John.

CT has hanging shad...FL has hanging chads.

"The body is all steal 1916 dodge." That about sums it up.

Well, it wasn't always that way. When I registered my first 32DL6 in CT in 1967, they DID require a safety check. They tested the brakes, hand brake, the horn, all of the lights, and the tires. All pretty simple, standard fare. I'm just surprised they aren't still checking stuff like that, since I had to bring my latest DL6 to the inspection station anyway for them to verify the serial number.

Here's one potential source. I put in a search for 1932 Chrysler/Dodge but they may have other years. Not cheap!

Believe it or not, Connecticut doesn't even require a safety inspection when you register any car over 25 years old. And, no annual inspections or emissions tests...ever!

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