Phil 32DL6

So after doing some further poking, prodding, flexing and soul searching today here's what I've concluded (see attached image). It appears that the opening for the hand brake shifter lever was originally created by two drilled holes with a slit between them. When the rubber was new and flexible, it was simply forced over the head of the hand brake and molded itself to the bottom of the lever. Over time as the hand brake was applied and the rubber became less flexible, the slit opened and took on the shape of the path of the lever's travel. As John pointed out, what looks like an intentionally designed "tab" is how the mat was shaped and stayed as the rubber became inflexible. By carefully flexing the mat, I'm also now of the opinion that the metal sheet does not completely fill the mat. The center part is more flexible than the outer perimeter. I've colored the entire mat a bright pink color, then overlaid the metal core shape in blue giving it a purple color. The shape of the inner edge of the metal is a guess since I couldn't feel the exact edge of the metal. Seems the metal frame kept the overall shape of the mat, reinforced the screw holes, but didn't provide support for the mat over the hole in the floor. Probably they found that the metal interfered in the areas where the rubber mat needed to remain as flexible as possible so it could move with the levers in multiple directions.

John's comments sent me back to have another look, and John seems to be right about that "tab." I also have some other comments to make...after I do a bit of Photoshopping later.

Here are some additional pics that will answer some questions and clarify the details. The two shots showing the shifter pad in place and missing show the hole that the pad covers. It's large enough that you can see why they included the metal sheet in the pad. Without it I would think that rubber material alone would, over time, sink down into the hole enough to cause a depression in the pad, or even allow something sharp to poke through (a high heel?!) You'll also see that there is no rubber boot covering the lower end of the shift lever assembly...just a larger metal housing, but there IS a rubber seal between the housing and the thin upper part of the shift lever. The shot with the mirror shows that the side of the hand brake lever towards the front of the car has an open channel. If you then look at the close up shot of the pad you'll see that the pad has a "tab" that fits into the handle channel! Another example of the attention to details by those DB engineers!

It's actually pretty low-risk. Take out 5 screws and it slides right up and off.I've had it off before to clean up the battery ground cable connection to the transmission housing, and clean and lube the shifter link rods.

Here are some pics of my '32s shifter/hand brake floor pad...part number 360081. As you can see, it's not flat anymore, and the rubber is brittle, so trying to mold off it would be problematic. I can work up a plan with dimensions, if that would help?

I just spotted this thread soooooo...Tomorrow's supposed to be a decent day. I'll back Debbie out and see what's what.

Try removing the battery ground cable.

Spotted this unusual one today: 34 dodge stakebed truck | Long Beach | eBay Classifieds (Kijiji) | 27344048 Good for hauling your DB to meets?

Yeah...but for the last 43 years yours has been locked in a garage, so the first 35 years of daylight must have caused 98% of the damage?

Here's a confirmation of the color fade on my '32's original side pocket.

Even thought I'm NOT the knucklehead PO Dick's referring to (probably the one he bought the car from in '65), I can surely sympathize with him. All three of us had the 'pleasure' of driving this DB in Syracuse, NY during the mid '60s—a.k.a. 'The Little Ice Age"—when temps would occasionally dip down to the -20s at night. Those were the times when 10W oil, an electric dipstick and a 75W bulb left next to the battery overnight were the only hopes of getting her started the next morning.Had I known those little dash holes could be hooked up to serve as a pseudo defroster, I might have done it in a heartbeat!

Hunh! So convertible coupes have oval pedals, while sedans have rectangular.I've often wondered why some suppliers of replacement pedals list their oval pads for '32.

Yes, they are definitely painted, and I believe woodgrained. It's hard for me to tell for sure because of the age deterioration, but those strips on mine are at least the dark brown of the other woodgrained areas. I think I can see faint woodgraining as well. It would make sense for them to be woodgrained to match the woodgrained door window surrounds.I've never had the trim between the dash and the windshield off before so I can't answer what's behind there. If somebody has a critical need to know...let me know.

Any early interest in a caravan from CT?

You can tell I changed the oil often...just look at all those old service station stickers on the door frame!

Silicone grease? Teflon tape? Freeze the parts before assembly? I'd experiment before finalizing.

Agreed. And I'm in between in little ol' Connecticut. We've got some pretty steep hills around here. Ask the 4-cylinder guys that showed up for last year's Annual DB Meet. Heck, I live on RIDGE Road. Every time I go anywhere I've got to go DOWN the side streets. I sure am glad to not HAVE to rely on my brakes at the stop signs at the bottom! (As it is the engine's softly popping back all the way down while I pump the brakes.)I drove my first '32 DB in Syracuse, NY for 3 years with Freewheeling engaged most all of the time. That place has as many steep hills as around here. Maybe more. Never had a problem...but I was young and foolish back then. Now I'm young at heart and much less foolish.

I should have mentioned that I have both the Freewheeling and the Auto Clutch disabled. Why? Because shifting is so silky smooth already without those "shifting aids" that I figure, why risk the dangers of having no engine braking, and why add all of that extra hardware and vacuum lines that could fail at any time? I've just left everything in place for appearance sake because they were interesting experiments by Chrysler to show and talk about.

Just to clarify a bit...the Auto Clutch system is on the right side of LHD 1932 DBs, while the Freewheeling unit is in the rear of the transmission.Also, while the Auto Clutch needs the Freewheeling to operate, you can use Freewheeling without having an Auto Clutch installed. My original '32 was set up that way. Freewheeling was standard on the '32s while Auto Clutch was an extra cost accessory. (I believe it was about $10.) These may not help your RHD situation, but here are some pics of the Auto Clutch system on my '32 DL. (I could have gotten better shots of the underside if the car had been jacked up.) I removed the air intake silencer for a better view of the upper part of the system. Note all of the "spaghetti" from the intake manifold going to the carb and the can with the piston!

Who's Joe Cozza?

Do you need to open the can to do that?

There is a nut affixed to a bracket which is nailed onto the underside of the plywood floor. In the last of the attached pics, I held a mirror under the floorboard to show the nut and bracket. There is a hole drilled through the floorboard which aligns with the nut and a hole in the metal cover plate. While I've been guessing that there was a bolt with a thumb screw end, I don't have that part, but it seems logical not to have to get out a wrench to access the battery. But, maybe you did? Whatever type bolt it was, it probably ended up on some roadway long ago!

Universal 6V electric pumps are easy to find. You have to make sure what pressure range your car requires. The low pressure pumps range from about 2-4 lbs while high pressure pumps range from around 6 lbs up. Some are adjustable. One nice feature about electric pumps is you can switch them off if you flood your carb and then they clear out fast. If you want authenticity, go mechanical. I put an electric pump on my '32 to eliminate a vapor lock problem (which is more common on updraft carbs).

I don't know if this battery box cover is unique to the '32s but here are some pics and a plan in case anyone else is interested in making one. There is a 1/4" drilled hole for a thumb screw to screw into the wood frame and hold down the battery cover. Note the diagonal creases to add stiffness.

I just received this notice but, being too late for the DBC News, I thought I'd post it here: FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: The Rotary Club of Wooster will host its 38th Annual Antiques and Collectibles Auction on April 5 and 6 at Wooster High School. Admission is free. One of this year’s feature items is a 1922 Dodge Brothers Touring Car. This attractive historic vehicle was once housed in a museum and has won recognition at a number of events. The ’22 Dodge Brothers Touring Car will be one of a number of special and unique items that will sell beginning at Noon on Saturday, April 6. Other feature items include two more vehicles – though not historical as the ’22 DB – fine pieces of furniture, autographed sports memorabilia, and much more. Altogether, the Auction has 1800 lots between consignments and donations. These lots will be sold over fifty (50) hours within five (5) venues all at one location over the two days. Doors open for the Auction each day two hours before selling. Selling begins at 2:00 PM on Friday, April 5th and at 10:00 AM on Saturday, April 6th. Learn more about the Wooster Rotary Auction Rotary Club of Wooster Ohio - District 6650. Wooster High School is located at 515 Oldman Road in Wooster, Ohio. Wooster is a community on State Route 30 in northeast Ohio approximately an hour south of Cleveland and 30 minutes east of Interstate 71.