DavidMc

My experience is confined to cars of the 1920's with very low compression ratings. Octane rating is irrelevant, they run fine on any of the available fuels and in fact run just as well on an additional 10-20% Kerosene plus gas. However I have found that any fuel containing ethanol will vapourise in hot weather more readily that any non ethanol fuel. Adding the kerosene reduces vapou r lock but here in Australia in hot weather (35-40 C) on a long climb my cars will vapour lock no matter what fuel, if driven hard. I suspect 100% kerosene would avoid this. But ambient conditions play a much greater role in performance than fuel, Under very cold ( say 5-10 deg C) damp conditions my cars perform best. If your climate does not cause vapour lock my experience (1920's cars only) is that any fuel is fine. There is no science to these comments, just experience driving three different 1920's Packard over many years.

This is about as close as you will get to a repair manual, you can download a copy. http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Maxwell/1909_Maxwell/1909_Maxwell_Instruction_Book/dirindex.html

I have a 2 cylinder Maxwell with a Splitdorf mag, and it works fine, I had it checked by an expert who re-magnetised it checked the windings and fitted new modern sealed bearings. However I have seen many Maxwell's that have had the original Splitdorf replaced with different types. This could be because the base casting and timer body, which are oten pot metal, may have cracked The other reason could be that the Splitdorf on the Maxwell is a low tension magneto, it simply generates 6 volts which works with a coil and condensor to create the spark. This also works well but others may have considered it necessary to convert to high tension magnetos. I don't know anything about your 1913 Stude magneto but I doubt very much that it cannot be made to work (unless it has cracked pot metal parts) however being in Australia I can't suggest an expert but would expect you would have lots more to choose from that we do We should make this site our "Active Brass Era " Forum.

What about this complete kit: http://www.logolites.com/led/turn/signals/

I have not wired up the generator at this time as just trying to fire the motor. I have always understood that you have to connect the generator circuit or you will damage the generator. It will be generating current with no where to go.

I have done 2 sedans over recent years and in each case I dispensed with the chicken wire and used 1/8" thick ply covered with wadding. I believe that this makes it easier to get a smooth shape for the vinyl. The plywood needs to be as thin as possible so it can be fixed to the bows to give the necessary compound curve. This was achieved without difficulty.

Classic & Exotic ( as already suggested) supply new Pines Winterfront parts including the thermostat. http://www.classicandexotic.com/store/p-551-pines-winterfront-thermostat-for-duesenberg-packard-others.aspx

Many thanks, that is very useful, data, Merry Christmas

I have looked for years for the free arch spring data, I have a number of spring data tables with everything but that. If its not asking too much do you have the tables for Dodges, particularly the 1927 model. David

Earlier discussion about L&L http://forums.aaca.org/topic/265581-running-board-trim/?hl=%2Brunning+%2Bboard+%2Btrim

If you search the Forum you will find this has been raised before, at the time L&L were uncontactable.

A good quality scale model of one of the cars would make a good gift.

Have you tried Regress Press? They reproduce literature for many makes including early Maxwell manuals and sales brochures. http://regresspress.com/searchResults.php

Hopefully the table will attach this time. img-151129232601.pdf

The valve timing data in the above post is in XL format on the computer but it does not transmit that way. When attaching the file I get the following: "Error You aren't permitted to upload this kind of file" Any suggestions?

Bernie, The timing diagram for your Renault is of interest in comparison to our much older Veteran, a 1912 Maxwell 2 cyl. I have modified the valve timing of the Maxwell to improve its low speed torque. The attached table shows the original and modified valve timing. This engine is a 2 cyl of 2.1 litre capacity and it will be quite different to your Renault in that it and is very slow revving. The engine peaks at about 1500 RPM which corresponds to about 55 KPH. The modification was successful, the car will now pull well down to very low RPM. I would expect the Renault to have a considerably higher rev range. The reasoning behind the changes to the Maxwell was to improve the volumetric efficiency ( the ratio of volume of fuel/air induced to actual cylinder volume). The inlet valves now open earlier and close later. The ignition is manually adjusted and the retarded setting is only used when starting (by hand crank), any further advance risks a broken wrist. Once starting the car runs best fully advanced including low RPM pulling on hill. Retarding the spark slows the car. The improved performance raises the question as to why the original manufacturer did not use a more efficient timing. This model car was sold in large numbers and you would expect that the designers would have experimented to optimise the valve timing. I guess we will never know. I do not share your disdain for other aspects of our hobby such as ‘cheque book restoration” or non driving display only cars. There is room in the hobby for a very wide range of interests. David 1912 Maxwell 2 cylinder valve and ignition timing Original Cams -degrees Modified Cams -degrees Inlet vavle opens 15.5 -6.4 Inlet valve closes 225 243.7 Inlet valve open interval 209.5 250.1 Exhaust valve opens 139.1 112.3 Exhaust valve closes 10.3 7.2 Exhaust valve open interval 231.2 254.9 Spark fully retarded -3 -3 Spark fully advanced -40 -40 Notes: Open and close angles are at start of open or close All degrees are clockwise relative to TDC at zero degrees

I did not realise the above attached PDF contained photos of another car, that car was was bought new by a relative long before I bought mine, identical car by coincidence.

That handbook brings back so many memories, I obtained my driving licence here in Australia in 1960 and I bought a 1937 Morris 8/40 DP Roadster. It was all I could afford at the time and it was my daily transport to work and technical college for a few years. I learnt much about cars due to the constant attention needed to keep it reliable. My father and I removed the engine and fitted new rings, the crankshaft was worn and my uncle took it away and hand filed it round, he stared with a fine file then finished with fine emery paper wrapped around the file with constant checking with a micrometer. The car covered many miles after that with good oil pressure and no bearing failures. How times have changed. Another incident occurred when a back brake locked on shearing the "U" bolts tearing the whole rear axle out from under the car. The electrics were a constant PITA particularly the ignition / light switch. I resprayed it and it looked quite good. My mother took the old top apart and using it as a pattern sewed a new one. It never had any side curtains. Great memories, That car was my ticket to independence, and while I have owned some nice cars since that on has the strongest memories. David 1937 Morris 840.pdf

Thanks to all who responded and especially the information on the 3 different types of carburetors used in 1929: Packard air valve, Johnson and Detroit Lubricator. Anyway, we have had success and made contact with the Packard Carburetor web site owner who was surprised we have had problems making contact. A complete new Detroit Lubricator Carburetor is now on order and we are hoping for a Christmas present. Jon (carbking) I always enjoy and learn from your responses on this forum, perhaps you can comment on whether the Detroit Lubricator is better than Packard air valve? I have a Packard air valve type on my 633 and it works fineexcept that I have never been able to get the engine to idle as well as I would like .

Thanks Jon and others, The one on ebay looked like a different model to me but its not my car and I may be mistaken so I will leave it to the owner to decide. I still don't like using a carburetor with a pot metal body as my experience with the stuff is not good. I have replaced all pot metal components on my own projects with brass or aluminum reproductions.

The 2 cylinder Maxwells have full elliptical rear springs clamped to the axle and they each pivot on a single pin attached to the chassis. Long radius rods running forward restrain the the back axle. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks for the responses, the one on e-bay is not correct. We have the correct carburetor , its on a 1929 Packard 640 however the pot metal body is cracked. The Packard Carburetors web site offers the correct ones new as complete units or replacement bodies made form brass but they are not contactable. I do not believe there is any point in fixing ours with another pot metal body even i it is sound. The solution is to cast a new body in brass which would be very expensive especially for the machining or one off. Someone must know what's happening with Packard Carburetors http://packardcarbs.com/

We have been trying to contact "Packard Carburetors" without response: http://packardcarbs.com/ They do not answer e-mails or phone calls. Does anyone know if they are still in business? We need a new Detroit Lubricator 51 carburetor or at least a new brass body to replace the old cracked pot metal one. Any leads would be appreciated.

Graham, I would suggest you try again with a heading along the lines of "Information wanted on 1922 Maxwell" with photos of what you have. Also ask the same question on the Yahoo Maxwell Forum. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/maxwellbriscoeowners/info Mine is a 2 cylinder 1912 so it would have nothing in common with yours. David

Mine is an earlier model, sorry I can't help.