DavidMc

I have had a number of 1920's cars over many years all with vacuum tanks. Each car has been driven many miles . Vacuum tanks are extremely simple and reliable devices and there is absolutely no reason to modify them. However the pot metal tops can cause a problem and I always replace them with a reproduction top. The originals can crack or warp and leak. The internal seats for the 2 valves have small brass inserts in the top and they can come loose and fail to shut off when the pot metal expands around the insert. The reproduction tops in aluminum or brass do not have or need these inserts. I have experienced vapor lock where the vacuum tank is located over the exhaust manifold . In this location the fuel is preheated and in hot weather this can lead to vapor lock. Many solutions to this problem have been exhaustively discussed on this forum over the years.

Excellent, thanks for posting. Is there no sound or is it just my computer? Can't help with the identity of the car.

I looked at buying one of those XK8 Jaguars a few ago, they were a very expensive cars when new (or at least here in Australia) and are now at rock bottom. I took one for a test drive, beautiful car and I have spoken to owners who have owned them for years with no trouble - but if they start to give trouble then expect big bills. If you google Jaguar lovers it will take you to an excellent forum with a section for the XK8. jag-lovers.org When I drove the XK8 it did not seem to accelerate as hard as I expected and certainly nothing like a typical US muscle car but it was probably actually going just as quick, it was just much more refined. I don't believe that rust is an issue, this is a 1997 car and it will have been properly painted internally and the infamous Lucas issues were long past when this car was built but it has all of the modern electronics and who knows what problems that will bring long term. At the right price it will be very tempting- buying a car like that is never a rational choice good luck!

I have one of those but mine is better it wants to take over the driving.

Reply posted on the PI site: The left one looks like the correct one based on my 6th Series 1929, the right one does not look correct and they should be the same on the LHS and RHS. I would think your 1928 (5th Series?) would be the same as the 6th Series 1929. These cams and the associated universal joints are hard to find in good condition. They wear badly without lubrication and when dirt gets in past the worn covers. Max Merritt used to have new replacement brake cover kits for these. The kit consisted of the spherical cups and springs. I know of a 1929 Packard where the owner gave up on finding usable front brake cam/ universal joints and converted the front brakes to flexible cable operated using rear brake back plates and custom made brake cables. It worked well. I am not advocating this because I like them authentic but he felt he had no other option.

Thanks Leif & 28 Chrysler, motorbike makes sense, anyone know what makes of bike used it or was it after market? Yes it sounds just like a duck!! I thought it might have been used in a factory situation at start and finish work times. It came to light during a garage clean out.

Can anyone identify this hand operated horn. The nameplate states that it is a S.A. Laboratories Hand Horn Series No. 2 Brooklyn NY USA. Is it automotive or maybe from a motorbike. Any idea if its era?

Problem solved, the answer was obvious once some grime was cleared away, the horizontal engine mount bolts withdraw out through the sides of the chassis

I am hoping someone can advise on removal of the engine from a 1928 La Salle. I have removed the rear engine mount top clamps but the clamp studs will not come out so the engine needs to be lifted up and over these tall studs and it hits the edge of the firewall before clearing the studs. I am guessing that the studs have to come out but if that is so then I would have expected bolts instead of studs. The one behind the steering box is going to be extremely difficult to remove. What am I missing.

Try this web site, they have lots of King Seeley parts. http://www.classicandexotic.com/store/c-85-king-seeley-hobson-fuel-gauge.aspx

I had all the same problems with a 1929 Packard 633 Sedan. It took about 6 months on & off before I got all 4 doors to fit reasonably and even then it was not perfect. I replaced all of the timber in the car but there is no scope for changing the shape of the front and centre pillars. The lower end of the rear pillar could be brought in or out a little. I made a large collection of different thickness shims for the hinges. I am sure you are finding that when you correct one side or corner another goes the wrong way. No words of wisdom, just keep at it. To ensure that all three hinges were aligned I used a single rod from top to bottom for the initial set up. Its a very tedious job.

The wheel looks exactly the same as the Rudge Whitworth wheels fitted to most of the surviving early 1920's Packard sixes that were exported to Australia. Unfortunately, Kean I can't help with any spares, they extremely scarce. A few owners have had to resort to making new wheels starting with only original hubs.

Across Australia link : http://www.vintagecarheritage.com/veteran-cars-cross-australia-100th-anniversary-run-2012/

The Brush has certainly proved to be a great tour car, a Brush was the first car to drive the 2600 miles from Perth to Sydney Australia in 1912. The trip was re-enacted in 2012 by a group of 1 & 2 cylinder cars including a number of Brush cars. The original trip took 28 days on largely unmade roads, we did it in 21 days on good roads. Interesting cars with a wooden chassis and front axle.

You will need to talk to signwriters in your area, your Hudson will have curved woodgrained surfaces which will make application of the adhesive film more difficult but it can be done and will probably have to be applied by someone with experience. My signwriter friends who alerted me to the process recently showed me photos from a large trade show for new trucks where some of the display trucks had "chrome plated" bodies. The chrome was actually the same type of adhesive film which would have been removed at the end of the show so the trucks could be sold.

Fish oil sprayed on the rusty panels every few years seems to stop the progression of the rust.

The accessory mirror I referred to was fitted in the 1920's to a Fiat owned by a relative here in Australia but it was not a Fiat accessory. I believe it was made to fitted to a wide range of cars. I do not know where these mirrors were made.

I have a similar mirror that I know was purchased in the 1920's as an accessory side mirror clamped to the windscreen post, the mounting arm on mine is quite different to yours but the circular mirror is the same. The mounting arm on yours looks as though it could have been made to connect to the front door hinge of a closed car as an after market fitting. So 1920's.

A little off topic but I just came across some photos of a 1919 Daniels awaiting restoration in the Boyertown Museum of Historic Vehicles. Ref. HCCA Gazette #70 Sept/Oct 2008

There is are detailed instructions on adjusting the Bendix brakes on the 1929 Packards on the Packard Information site under Service Shop & Training Manuals. I would think the instructions would apply to your 1930 model. Packard Motor Car Information - Packard Literature and Manuals - Service, Shop & Training Manuals

I have just obtained the latest edition of our Restored Cars magazine here in Australia and in the Classifieds there is an ad for a Davis car, it looks in worse condition than the one above. It is advertised as a 1916 model 6 cylinder # 85-10561, but it looks to be later than 1916.

I have woven linings on the external contracting bands on a 2 cylinder Maxwell and they need to be quite loose on the drum otherwise after a short drive they start to bind and drag on the drum. It seems that light rubbing of the lining heats and expands the drum enough to cause the brakes to drag. I simply back them off until they no longer bind. David

Congratulations on solving one of the most annoying problems in hot weather. I have followed your thread with great interest, before you close off why not summarise the result with a schematic sketch of the final fuel system for future readers researching this topic.

1939 Buick, PM sent

Bofusmosby, You are thinking of the cheap contact sheets of years ago that looked awful after a short while. This product is used by the signwriting industry on external signs exposed to all weather extremes including the sides of trucks. After the film is produced on what looks like a huge copying machine it then goes through a another machine that laminates a clear film. I understand that all signs are now made this way, sign writers no longer use paint and brushes. This is a very robust product. I just tried to photograph the roll of film but it has too much reflection.