DavidMc

1940 Packard, the 1941 model had the headlights fared into the fenders.

That starting procedure is about the way I start my 126 but always on the starter, when the car has been standing for a while I also prime it with the priming cups. I have nothing but admiration for anyone who can start it on the crankhandle. Its in such an awkward postion with the chassis cross member and the lights I have never been game to try it. David

Donald, I found the dome light switch for my 633 at Hershey after a long search, is it the same as the one for your car? I also found one for a Buick that I had intended to use if I could not find the correct one. It is not identical but its close. I still have it if you decide to compromise on originality. David

Danhar1960. I think Durant28 was referring to "feloes" which are the wooden rims set inside the steel rim on a veteran car. Not on you '39 Buick. I see you are in Sydney, I use VG Auto at Girraween for my paint supplies, their prices are good and they offer excellent advice for the DIY including free Saturday classes. Highly recommended if they are anywhere near where you live.<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> VG Auto Paints <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->

The grape fruit trick sounds like just a way to cool the pump. You can achieve very quick (and very temporary) vapor lock relief with a wet rag or a bottle of water poured over the pump (or vacuum tank in my case) and carburettor. I have use kerosene as a very effective solution for years, it works with no detecable adverse effects in 1920's cars which I am told will run on 100% kerosene.

I assume you are referring to the 1921 Packard 116 Single Six. There is a brass plate between the generator and the crankcase that supports the drive gear, the generator shaft is splined and fits the internal spline on that gear so to remove the generator you remove the 3 mounting nuts and withdraw the generator leaving the brass plate and gear in place. The brass plate has slotted holes that allow it to be rotated to tension the timing chain. There is a parts list for that model Packard on the Packard Information web site .<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1921-24_SingleSixPartsList.pdf <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->

Ditto, on my car the wheels don't touch the wells they are supported off the side mount brackets

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Marty, Did you bolt the wire-wheel lug bolt through a wire wheel? Yes, many years ago, see below. Or did you bolt the wire-wheel lug bolt through a disk wheel? I did that as well the other day in response to your question, the longer lug bolt was far too long for the disc wheel. Were you able to bolt the wires directly to the disk hubs (other than the length of the bolts). Yes. I have 2 / 633's which have 8 lug 20" wheels, one car originally had disc wheels the other originally had wires, I restored both from derelict wrecks and only had a total of 2 wire wheels, I eventually settled on discs for both as that was all that I found. The wire wheels and the disc wheels were interchangeable providing the longer lug bolts were used for the wire wheels. I don't have those wire wheels anymore so I can't measure them but my recollection is that the extra length was required because hubs of the wire wheels were thicker (wider) at the centre for the spokes. I had the two wire wheels bolted to one of the cars when I was restoring it and had hopes of finding enough to make a set. As I am sure you already know the hub caps are quire different between wires and disc wheels. Also I have seen a 6th Series car with wires on one side and discs on the other - yes I am serious!! Not my idea but it demonstrates that wires and discs are interchangeable (except for the lug size). David <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->

I continue to learn on this site, however I need to research local plastic fillers because I am still faced with a modern product with a spec sheet saying it is applied to bare metal. I need the one that is applied over the 2 pack primer. I assume you scuff the primer to improve the bond of the filler. Also another step in the painting process after metal prep and before the first coat is a wipe down with wax & grease remover. I also use a tack rag between coats to remove any traces of dust.

I have always applied any plastic filler to the bare metal then applied the primer because the instructions for the filler say it must be applied to rough sanded bare metal and that is what I was taught when I did a basic panel beating/spray painting course many years ago. I just checked the web site for the plastic filler to see if this has changed and I asked the supplier, both say apply over bare metal. Is this a new development - plastic filler over the primed surface? I am not familiar with the product names referred to by Restorer32 but similar products will no doubt be available here in Australia. I need to know more about this because obviously the faster you can coat the bare metal the better.

Marty, Only one way to find out, I just tried it. My car (633) has disc wheels but I have a couple of wire wheel lug bolts so I tried one and it bottomed out on the thread at least 1/2" before it tightened on the wheel. The disc wheel lug bolts are 1 5/16" long and the wire wheel bolt are 2" long. Unfortunatley you will need a set of the shorter bolts for the disc wheels. David

I use one of the phosphoric acid type rust converters on the bare metal in that situation. Providing the car is indoors it will hold the metal from rusting for quite a long time, weeks and maybe months. Then when its time to start the painting you simply repeat the acid treatment in accordance with the instructions to remove any traces of rust leaving the surface ideally prepared for the first coat.

The lug bolts for wire wheels are longer.

You could try using safety belt webbing. David

Bernie, Good to see it put to good use. David

Bernie, I sent the light on Thursday, you should receive it tomorrow - if its not there yet. David

Ryan, You won't regret it, chrome plating just does not look right on pre-chrome era cars and it is not hard to look after.

Bernie, The dome light for your 222 Coupe is shown on page 219 of the Parts List book. I have tried scanning a copy but its not very clear, it appears to be a large round ornate light. On the same page there is a picture of the later model rectangular shaped dome light for the later models, I have one of those if its any use to you. David

Very difficult to get all of the chrome off, best way is to get your electroplater to strip it.

Try this company: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> King Seeley and Hobson Fuel Gauge Parts and Supplies <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->

Tom, I had a 1926 Buick once, it was a good car and I liked it, very reliable but you say that the car is older than your experience so you should drive this car or a similar one to make sure it meets your expectations. If your experience is with much later cars you will find the Buick truck like as others have said and low geared. If you drive it too fast the engine will be over revving, I found mine would cruise comfortably at around 40 mph , after that the engine was working too fast. It would climb just about anything in top gear and slow down to a walking pace without the need to change down. But if you are used to later models it will be a lot different. David

Check out this supplier, they have many different handles and can make what they do not have. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> CATALOGUE <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->

Packard first used chrome externally in 1929 and I think Buick was the same, I vaguely recall that Oldsmobile was the first to use chrome in 1926.

Monty, I have sent you a PM re the folding seat. David

Your story and photo of the oval window VW brings back memories. I started driving in 1960 and as a student I bought myself an old 1937 English car for cheap transport. Not long after I got my driving license I was asked to catch a train to a town some 40 -50 miles away to collect a VW that had been in for service and bring it back. I jumped at the chance having never driven such a modern car! It was an oval window VW identical to yours and I will always remember the experience of driving this near new "modern" car which made my old 1937 seem primitive. So seeing your car described with such words as Vintage and Classic makes me feel old. Its all relative, some years later I bought my first "collector car" a 1926, model and I thought that was a truly old car, in fact it was less than 50 years old when I bought it in the early 70's while your VW is already older than that. It is good to keep these things in perspective. Watch that rear suspension on the VW, those rear wheels will tuck under and cause the car to spin out out if you corner too quickly- it happened when I drove the above car, it scared me half to death not for my own welfare but that of the "new" VW fortunately I did not hit anything. Thanks for the memories.