David_Leech Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Again, sorry, no pics. Rebuilding my seized speedometer. First of all, expect the body will break. Mine is now in three pieces. Second, you will have to drive the main shaft out. It comes out by driving the shaft through from the speedo cable connection with a punch towards the magnetic wheel. It is very tight and this is where the body will break. I'm now sourcing the best way to reattach the broken body. It also does not help that someone else has been in there causing damage, evident by the epoxy securing parts together Anyone have recommendations on joining the broken die cast back together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 For a 1928 Standard Six? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Glen Smith may be reproducing the body, in Australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 If its a Stewart Warner speedo then you can purchase the internals from an early Ford Model A (28-29). There are plenty available on ebay that are re-built. For my 28 Chrysler I had to modified the trip meter stork/knob to work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 If your speedometer is a North East Glen is your only hope of a new one at about $500 AU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Leech Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 Myers has the part, $500. I will certainly attampt to repair mine first. I don't know if it is diecast zinc, some other white pot metal, or aluminum. Without knowing what metal it is, I will have to use an adhesive to repair it. There are low temperature multi metal solders out there, but you need to know what it's made of. I'm also not sure it is an original piece from 28 either. Looks more modern than I would expect. Car was restored in 76, so it might be a replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Leech Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 10 hours ago, keiser31 said: For a 1928 Standard Six? Yes, 28 Standard Six. Why? You have something up your sleeve to blow my mind or make my day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 3 hours ago, David_Leech said: Yes, 28 Standard Six. Why? You have something up your sleeve to blow my mind or make my day? Just looking to get the full story so we know what to look for. I have a lot up my sleeve, but no 1928 DB Standard Six speedometers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 I think what John is referring to is called a needle in a hay stack. You may want to just put the head back in the dash and pretend it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 If it is like my Dodge 8, the body is pot metal. It swells with age (the zinc corrodes and the oxide is larger so it swells). The symptom is first , jerky operation, then a broken cable, then you inspect the speedo and notice it doesn't turn easily, or at all. You can try glue, or a v. low temp solder. It might last a while.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Leech Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 It's slowly going back together. I'm using Permatex metal weld epoxy and it seems to be strong enough. Its at least going to be as strong as the pot metal. I'm also building up the epoxy where I can to reinforce the breaks and other cracks in the pot metal. They say once cured it can be filed, tapped, and has a 4000 psi rating. I soaked the parts in alcohol to clean them. I'm also reassembling the smaller fragments into larger pieces then attaching them to what's left of the main body. It's not in as bad shape as I make it out to be. It's curing overnight before I attempt to reinstall all the components and make a few more minor repairs to the casting. It should be operational when I'm done. Hopefully accurate enough as well. I probably won't know until next year at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Leech Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 Any tips on cleaning the odometer and speedo wheels without wiping off the numbers? I accidentally stored the loose parts incorrectly and now the odometer is covered in penetrating oil and I have slight finger prints on the speedo wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayG Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 I can't say whether or not this will hurt the numbers but I would try one of the the wax and grease removers that auto body shops use to wipe surfaces clean before painting. They do not eat into painted surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Leech Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 Will upload tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Leech Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 Speedo is back together are appears to work well when powered by a drill. Odometer functions perfect. The "steel weld" epoxy appears to have done the trick. Oiled all the little oil wicks that keep the shafts lubricated with air tool oil and a drop in all the gears before I put it together. Won't be able to test it this year though. I need to repair the speedo cable and I think driving season is over here. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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