alsancle

Pierce Arrow

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David (trimacar) is correct that 1070440 is the "VIN" (actually, "serial number") of the car.  The 236S2276 is a body number:  2 is the engineering code for most 1933-35 8-cyl cars, 36 indicates 136" wheelbase, S = 5-p sedan, the first 2 (actually the body code would read 236-S2-246 on the tag) means "Salon" (deluxe) trim (s-1 means standard trim), and 246 is the sequential number among 5-p 8-cyl sedans (both standard and Salon) for 1933.

 

A *2005* master register of vehicles ever known to the Pierce-Arrow Society reflects the last owner being located in Toronto in the time frame 1997 and later.  In the comments section, "c. 1993 car restored as a 'rod' (mag wheels, etc)."  [What a shame!  A beautiful original car in your photos.]

 

The actual engine number recorded with PAS for this car was 236522.

 

Each year's PAS roster includes only those vehicles claimed by current members for that year.  Some owners choose not to list their cars at all.  Generally, only about half of the Pierce vehicles known to the PAS are listed in any given year's roster.

 

For 1930-38 Pierce autos, serial (chassis) numbers are seven numerals, engine numbers are six numerals. 1929-only engine numbers begin with A- but the serial is seven numerals like other years.

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Greatly appreciate the information.  Ouch on the mag wheels, etc. Today we would not have painted the body - only the fenders (right front needed leading behind the headlight). But the body was absolutely beautiful. The rounded corners were just starting to rub through to the primer and there were traces of the original pin striping.  -0- rust car except for the one fender. Right rear fender had been filled a bit due to a crease. But lacquer was cheap and spraying was cheap ($75) - we did the rub out.

 

No wonder it is so hard to get the numbers straight on the older vehicles when they have to check the VIN - see copy of the Massachusetts registration.

 

IMG_0001.thumb.jpg.5027ae81be7e4b58a9fd1c1f621a1a8e.jpg

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Glad David and I could help a bit. We can only hope that the "rodding" was limited to mag wheels.

 

BTW, the first two digits of each 1929-38 engine and serial (chassis) number identify the year, cubic inch displacement, and wheelbase.  This is a bit of an oversimplification, but it's easy to sort out if there's a different year engine installed.

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Ah, I forgot about the body number, thanks G......yes, shame if it's rodded, hate to see any Full Classic so treated, and Pierce is dear to my heart so bothers me even more....

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On 9/4/2017 at 8:06 PM, vermontboy said:

Greatly appreciate the information.  Ouch on the mag wheels, etc. Today we would not have painted the body - only the fenders (right front needed leading behind the headlight). But the body was absolutely beautiful. The rounded corners were just starting to rub through to the primer and there were traces of the original pin striping.  -0- rust car except for the one fender. Right rear fender had been filled a bit due to a crease. But lacquer was cheap and spraying was cheap ($75) - we did the rub out.

 

No wonder it is so hard to get the numbers straight on the older vehicles when they have to check the VIN - see copy of the Massachusetts registration.

 

IMG_0001.thumb.jpg.5027ae81be7e4b58a9fd1c1f621a1a8e.jpg

 

I am fairly certain I know the car, and it’s current configuration. If it’s the car I am thinking of it wasn’t limited to just a wheel change. The car was Chevrolet powered, etc. 

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Thanks Ed - that's the impression I got. When I get serious in a couple of years I won't start my search looking for it..... too bad, unless something catastrophic occurred it should have still been a nice driver quality Pierce. 1933 was a great year and it was a great car for long Sunday drives or even vacations to Vermont and New Hampshire.

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Under total restoration on the west coast. It’s being done correctly by a shop that has done a bunch of Pierce Arrow’s. I’m looking forward to seeing it in the near future.

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On 10/15/2016 at 9:07 AM, alsancle said:

Blah.  Reminds me of a high hat Rollson.

1930 pierce arrow.jpg

 

In regard to the spare tire question on this car, and that it was carried by a "chase car": Can I assume from the photo in post #18 that a spare tire was added to the car later on?

 

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On 10/14/2016 at 10:41 PM, edinmass said:

I'll throw down the gauntlet, ID the car, body builder, year, chassis, owner when it was new, and cars current location. It has 2200 miles on it. No help from the PA guys!

image.png

 

Spare tire.

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12 hours ago, edinmass said:

Yes, a later update. Car still has its original upholstery.

 

Most of the time a dark color will help a big car.  Not here though.

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That car need NO help, it’s a fantastic car.........It’s just you car snob high faulting taste that is the problem. If you look close you can read the factory bumper sticker! 🤔

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I'm bitterly unhappy about the burgundy one I had last year. I was talking to the seller about keeping it myself--he was a friend and we were working out a way for me to put such a valuable car in my collection. I would have liquidated everything else, but I felt it would have been worth it and he was willing to wait for payment in full. I'd been admiring the car for 15 years. Then a buyer showed up willing to pay full asking price, and I didn't feel it would be ethical to not take the money for my client. So I sold the car.


Months later, it was with another dealer with a giant price tag. I don't know if the buyer didn't want it after all or the dealer bought it and lied to me about the buyer, but it slipped out of my hands and is now out of reach forever. I'm none too pleased about any of that. When I saw that Mecum link in the preview pane, I feared for the worst and thought it was "my" car heading for the dumping ground that is Mecum.

 

Sometimes doing the right thing will get you screwed in the end.

 

 

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Edited by Matt Harwood (see edit history)
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I have encountered the attached coupe below twice.   First, not too many years ago when it was sitting in the car corral at Hershey with a very reasonable sale price attached and "SOLD" stamped over it.   The car was not 1/2 way down the trailer when it was sold.   Second,  when the very astute collector (a really nice guy with some great cars) brought on a caravan that I was on.   I really like these coupes.

 

I'm going to say that the yellow car is probably worth a very slight premium over comparable correct eight cylinder car.   Definitely cool,  but you do lose some of the audience on an engine swap.

IMG_2222 (1).JPG

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I just looked at that ad.  I would trade my Cord for that. 

Is the upholstery correct?  It looks a bit off, style/ pattern wise.

It would have been nice to see a shot of the engine as well. 

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I have this vague recollection that Richie Clyne owns the convertible so he would definitely do a trade if there was profit in it for him.   Semi-rough car with new interior is kind of scary though.

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Who knows (Eddy?)  how many of the production Silver Arrows had sidemounts and how many did not?  Also breakdown of 12 vs 8.   Is the 12 warmed over like the show cars?

 

image.thumb.png.345181c38b686ee75fc8639515a574e8.png

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1 hour ago, alsancle said:

I have this vague recollection that Richie Clyne owns the convertible so he would definitely do a trade if there was profit in it for him.   Semi-rough car with new interior is kind of scary though.

I don't mind a driver/ beater type car,  but I doubt there is any upper hand in a trade for my car for him,  so It probably wouldn't work.  Scares me a little as well,  having compression and oil pressure but not running?  Doesn't take much more to get it running unless there is something expensive wrong,  not mentioned. 

It's a whole lot easier to move under it's own power, that to push and winch to move it around a shop. 

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