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Exhaust system 1963 total replace


DrP

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After sitting out one year ready to continue the '63 renovation. This has probably been discussed previously but couldn't find thread.

 

1. Seeking advice for best source for total, original, replacement of all exhaust system parts including hangers and clamps. Cost is not as critical as is originality: Desire to keep everything as original to the car.

 

2. Waldron shows set with resonators, pipes and crossflow muffler plus clamps and "original styler" hangers. Has anyone used these?? Any pros/cons?

 

3. Also, Waldron shows clamps; how many clamps are required for full system? Will I also expect to need the muffler gaskets sold by Waldron?

 

Grateful for any help.  

Dale

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I replaced the entire exhaust from Waldron, had the Exhaust headers powder coated first. (see pic)

Everything fit as it should. no problem. I used the existing hangers , but bought 1/78 new clamps from NAPA.

Since the exhaust is 13/4"

Ask Waldron about a special shipping that will cost 1/2 as much as std shipping. Check if it available in your area.

 

Note: I changed the tail pipes to come out straight under the bumper. (see pic)

 

Sorry, no pictures after the install.

 

Rocket88

 

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Tnxx Chris/Old Crow:

 

Just about ready to order from Waldron. Still a couple of questions:

 

How many "hangers" are required?

From your great photos looks like I'll need to get the manifold gaskets as well for the full install?

 

Anyone else have success with replacing stock exhaust??

 

Dale  '63 survivor, Spruce Green/black leather

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86 the manifold gaskets.  The factory never used them.  There are some threads on the forum that discuss the cons (no pros) of using gaskets between the heads and the exhaust manifolds.

 

A little deja vu here; kind of scary.  I was just talking on the phone to a rubber supplier here in the KC area about belting that I could use to make new straps for my old hangers.  I'm going to visit with him more next week and take in a couple of OE hangers that I have so he can make some recommendations as to what I could use to replace just the rubber and use my old hard parts.  I'll start working on the rivets as soon as I post this.

 

Ed

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I have bought from Waldron's in the past and was satisfied.  The transverse mounted muffler is prone to rusting, particularly from lack of use.  It is not unusual for them to develop rust holes in 3 years with limited use.  I haven't bought one in a while but if Waldron's offers a muffler in stainless steel I would consider it if you use your car on a limited basis.

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Thanks again all:

 

Ed, I'd really be interested in what you find for replacing the rubber on the original hangers so let us know. Any problems or suggestions on riveting the new rubber on would be helpful.

 

My little gem is an excellent example of a well cared for, one owner, Riviera 'survivor' and, mostly all original with < 25K. Of course rubber including hangers has aged and some must be replaced. Determined to stay on the path of originality so attempting to keep everything "as was".   

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The rubber on one of the hangers on my car was replaced at one time.  I didn't realize it until I took the hanger off the frame.  It was only then that I noticed that the strap had been fastened to the metal part of the hanger with a round headed bolt (carriage bolt style) and a washer and nut. 

 

I'm probably going to talk to Kyle about the strapping on Thursday.

 

Ed

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Well, if you've been wondering, I found the Rivets.  They're called semi-tubular rivets and I can get them in a package of 50 for $15.47. That breaks down to about $.31 each.  A 50" by 36" sheet of 3/32" belting runs about $20.  That's 1800 sq. in. If the straps are 2" by 4", that's 8 sq. in.  That works out to be about $.088 per strap.  $.53 for 6 straps plus $7.44 for 24 rivets (if that many are required.)  6 hangers for less than $8.  The most costly piece is the rivet clincher; it runs about $25.  I'll find out on Thursday what the minimum amount of belting that I can buy and what I'll be charged to cut it into 2" x 4" straps.

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The original design had a drain hole on each side (the sides facing the wheels).  Unfortunately, the drain holes were not at the lowest point of the muffler but close.  Some condensation would remain in the muffler which lead to premature rust through for vehicles with limited use.  Back in the day when these cars were daily drivers, it wasn't an issue.  Between 1972 and 2010, I became a curse to the local Midas shops with replacements for my 64 and 65.  They never turned me away though.

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Ed you're the "get things done guy" for sure. If you want to make a "hanger repair kit" with these parts for others I'd be interested. I'd help amortize the cost of the rivet clincher AND would not even ask to borrow it well...unless you are coming to Calif soon.lol

 

Did the order with Waldron for the full aluminized exhaust system set in "quiet". They allowed me to delete the aluminized muffler and substitute s/s. Thanks Chris, they did say they have a 7-8 week lead time. BTW shipping to Calif and Colo is $266. Ship to other states is $80. We are so "special" in CA.

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Yup-Ed's not going to tip in the Lazy Boy-he'll be on the creeper under a Riv. I thought you might be cutting sidewalls out of old bias tires!

 

That is what I did- LOL.  Ed = I am interested in the rivit source!  the 65 Wildcat has unobtanium exhaust hangers/tailpipe hangers and I need to build about 3 sets of them.  

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Just to share an old memory about a very early member of the ROC; I bought the last set of NOS hangers that Joe Galina had stashed away in his collection. Joe was the Riviera collector from Clarkson, New York (the Clarkson between Buffalo and Rochester) who dealt in a lot of Riviera and Cadillac parts in the '70's through '90's.

 

He bought a new Ford Cobra in 1964. He said that every time his son pulled out of the driveway with the Cobra he got an image of a coffin in his mind. In 1965 he bought a Riviera and had a passion for them the rest of his life. He passed away Hershey week a few years ago.

 

I still remember him adamantly saying "Buick never built a car called a Riv, they built a Riviera".  That is reflected in anything I write about them.

 

The hangers still have the tags and I did save the old ones for bebuild...... sometime.

Bernie

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That is what I did- LOL.  Ed = I am interested in the rivit source!  the 65 Wildcat has unobtanium exhaust hangers/tailpipe hangers and I need to build about 3 sets of them.  

 

For some unexplainable reason I cannot post links.  ARRGGGGHHHHHHHH

 

Anyway, I found them at Graingers.  I'm sure that you can Google them.  You're looking for semi-tubular rivets.  1/4" shank, 3/4" shaft length, and 1/2" head diameter.  I'm citing these dimensions because this is what I found that others had used.

 

Until I can get together with the guy who sells the strapping (tomorrow) and take some measurements of my own, I'm posting the ones above.  I'll let you know more in a day or so if anything is different.

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  • 2 months later...

  A 50" by 36" sheet of 3/32" belting runs about $20.  That's 1800 sq. in. If the straps are 2" by 4", that's 8 sq. in.  That works out to be about $.088 per strap.   I'll find out on Thursday what the minimum amount of belting that I can buy and what I'll be charged to cut it into 2" x 4" straps.

 

Is this the direction you finally went, Ed? I'm in need of new straps myself.

 

Steve

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I was able to buy what I needed.  The material that came closest to what I wanted for the hanger straps is called belting.  It's used in the making of heavy duty conveyor belts.  I haven't done anything with it yet, it's still sitting on the shelf.  1) I can't find the hangers for one side of the car -Argghh!!  I have the ones that I took with me for comparison, but the others are pfffffttt!  and 2) The semi-tubular rivets that I find do not have a large head on them; I'm afraid that they'll pull through the strap after some time.  Looking for large diameter heads on the rivets where they meet the rubber.  The other end will be okay because that end of the rivet will come through a metal hole the same size as the shank of the rivet.  Still looking but not in a big hurry; exhaust is still a ways away.

 

Ed

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  • 8 months later...

I thought this would be the best place to post my experience with making new rubber hangars. I followed Ed's lead with the 'conveyor belt' idea and bought the least amount a company in Calif. would sell it which was 4" X  5'. It doesn't have as many fabric layers as some I've seen but think it will be sufficient.

 

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The co. which I bought this material from had a video on their website showing how easy this stuff is to cut using a razor knife & WATER. It's true. I had a small container of water that I dipped the blade in just prior to cutting and it worked quite well.

 

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So I measured the old, dried up hangars and found them to be approx. 2"X6".

 

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I cut a couple pieces and then needed to make some holes. My past experience has taught me that drill bits & rubber don't mix well so I found a piece of 5/16" tubing (my old fuel line) and used a file to sharpen the end a little. I also ended up placing a 5/16" bolt in the end I was hitting with the hammer to keep from disfiguring the tubing too quickly. After marking where the holes should be I placed the rubber on my vice and punched out some holes. I found that putting some other material under the area would help defray blunting the tip of my cutting 'tool'.

 

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This is what came out of my labors. Note that my car is not intended to be a 'points' type restoration so I just used 5/16" bolts instead of rivets to attach the rubber to the hangar brackets.

 

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When you tighten the lower hangar bolts it sandwiches the new rubber and forces it to curve in the required area.

 

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I only had to replicate 4 of these hangars as the rear most tailpipe hangar was supplied with the system that I used. If anyone is interested, I still have 4 feet of this belting material left and would be willing to sell small pieces and ship. My new Waldron's GS system is now sturdily hung and working well, thanks to all of your sharing info with the group.

 

Steve

 

Edited by slosteve
remove 1 photo (see edit history)
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