DrP

If you're in Calif I have all original 63, second owner, leather + more accessories, with all documents and only 25K original miles. If interested PM me at mdpresson@aol.com

Sorry over my price range.....

Just add this: Thank you Ed for all you contribute to ROA. Dale

Jim. I may have the car you may be interested in. It is a '63, Spruce Green, black leather with many options including A/C. I am second owner. Truly owned by a little old Portuguese lady in San Leandro CA the car is all original with 25,600 miles. I've done replacement/repair of many functions - the car was in storage for 27 years. All parts were replaced with NOS or correct reproductions. Please contact me by email IF you are interested.

Ed hope this is quick. I need to check the turn switch cable on my "63. Does it require removing the steering column or is there quick way? Thanks, Dale

1963 Riv: Seeking help. Having a knocking sound somewhere in rear on acceleration and deceleration. Doesn't happen all the time. Checked exhaust system to make sure not hitting. Could it caused by this bearing? The car has 25,000 original miles but sat in storage for 27 years. Other rubber parts are dried and have been replaced. Guess the drive shaft needs to be removed to do the bearing install. ( I have the shop manual). If I replace this is here anything else I need to order and do while this is out? Will I need both bearings as shown in RivNut's post? Someone advise please. Tnx

Events overtook intentions and didn't get an opportunity to have my car there. But, was able to stop by on Thursday for a short visit enroute to another destination. At least, saw the car show and bought some "stuff" to support ROA. Met a few of the Riv "nuts" - just like me. Great show of cars and intrepid Riv owners who'd travelled distances to be there. Impressed by the great efforts put out by those organizing and staffing this event. Met a few and, thanks to all who put out so much time and effort to make this happen. Hoping will be able to make Kansas next year. Well done Dick - likely you won't remember me but we did have a chat while you were getting your Vitamin D dose in the sun and I was admiring your car. Dale Presson

Thanks Chris. CARS has a "Front End Kit - FEK634D for $365.25 which includes 2 shafts (don't understand what these are) , 2 upper ball joints, 2 lower ball joints, 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 stabilizer link kits (don't understand what these are) and a control arm bumper. Ready to order but IMPORTANT INFO needed: Kit doesn't seem to include A: Inner tie rod ends OR B: Idler arm OR C: Pittman arm OR D: The center link OR E: 2 adjusting sleeves. Won't I also need these as well? Can someone please advise just exactly what I should order to rebuild the steering assembly? Thanks,

For me this is a timely post: My mechanic suggested I get the following: Inner and outer tie rods. Adjusting sleeves. Center link. Pittman arm and "Idler" arm. Do all these parts come in the kit from CARS? Is there anything else I'll need to rebuild the front end?? Trying to get the car ready for the Reno meet so on a tight schedule. Thanks for any help.

Ed: A bit of trivia; The high wattage radio station you listened to in Kansas late nights was from Del Rio TX. It was XERB broadcasting from across the border in Ciudad Acuna, Mexico. It could be heard in over 30 states in the mid west/west only at night. Founded by Dudley J LaBlanc who made millions from Hadacol - a patent medicine sold mostly in the South and who's primary ingredient was 12% alcohol therefor popular with consumers in areas where there were "blue laws" prohibiting sale of booze. XERB was where"Wolfman Jack" -an iconic rock and roll DJ from the 1950'-60"s and featured in "American Graffiti" - got his start.

Does it run? Can it be driven? More info and pics of engine and ID plate would be appreciated. Thanks.

Maybe a practice photo shoot for the upcoming Buick Saber???? On the other hand, maybe not...

Thanks Ed. Good info however, there are no supply sources near me on that list. Closest is Bradly (Lake Naciamento Marina) which is 90-100 mile round trip. I could count on using 10 gallons of fuel just on the trip to get fuel.lol

Personally I'm not interested in getting involved in a crusade to change Federal laws. I don't have time. However, I would like advice from other members on the best brand of fuel in California to use in my '63 401ci . I have been using Union 76 premium but they can't (won't) tell me how much ethanol is in their blend. Since I live near Laguna Seca race trackI also add about 25% high octane - racing fuel to each tankful at a premium cost of $7-10/ gallon. Further, in Kalifornia where, thanks to unscientific environmentalists laws, we have "special" blends that change with the seasons. Anyone have any suggestions for brand of fuels in California?

Where- in all this info - do I find how many 1963's were built with the color Spruce Green? I think I saw the number of about 1,400 somewhere but now cannot locate source. Thanks for help.

24,745 mi

Hoped the title would get some attention and action... So, thank you Ed for taking time to find these. My all original survivor '63 with less than 25K miles will be in its first car show tomorrow for a good cause; celebrating our Veterans Transition Center. About 150 cars are expected. Don't think there will be any "stock" Rivieras. The few I've seen in this area (Central CA Coast) are mostly customized/low riders. Talked to owners urging them to join ROA. Could've used a translator.. One guy said I should be careful where I park my car as they are easy to steal. Believe he knew what he was talking about.

Need the long screw and clip nut that retains the headlight trim ring on 1963. PO apparently stripped the clip nut or broke (lost) the long screw. He replaced it with bailing wire through the hole and twisted. Don't have a bone yard near me. Any help is appreciated.

Echo Ed's remarks re 50 year old bias belted tires. My all original, one owner 63 with 24K miles had similar care by original owner. It also had bias belted tires. After 50 years the tires were "cracking" and not safely drivable and, much of the other rubber - belts, hoses, trim rubber, etc had also deteriorated even 'tho it is a California car and was kept in controlled temperature storage all its life. Hope you get the car but advise you plan on (budget for- my costs for replacement/re-new so far is about $5,000) thorough inspection and restoration of essential systems, i.e., exhaust ( the original cross flow mufflers were notorious for rusting out due to condensation from not running often enough), cooling, brakes, fuel, suspension (shock absorbers and rubber suspension parts), transmission seals, timing gear/chain, electrical, etc. Think you might likely find - as was my case - most of the systems mentioned will have to be re-newed/replaced: Even down to fuel lines, brake lines and cylinders and even light bulbs and other electrical connectors. Bottom line: low mileage, rarely driven cars suffer faster deterioration than well driven cars. Good luck and hope this one doesn't get away from you.

I'll "horseback" on this post: I need to remove my old (current) emblem from the original spear (original spear has been modified not to my liking) and put in in a NOS spear I have. I really want to keep the original emblem. Can anyone tell me how to remove the old, original emblem from the spear without destroying it?

Well, got the booster off to Booster Dewey and he said they totally disassembled it and found an internal "hose defective". Got it back on the car and everything is working fine. Just a pain having to remove and replace several times. Now it's drivable and on to other small repairs.

Tom: PM me and remind me and as soon as I can I'll get you some pics of the original cover. Thanks, Dale

Just replaced clamps with period correct "Witteck Tower Top" from opgi. I bought extra in case of a problem but three are leaking. Ed says there is a "knack" to installing. Anyone advise on best way to install???

Second JZRIV's comment. Used stainless bolts and anti seize compound on mine as well.