Motor Honey engine oil leak stopper

[Guest PetePontiac]

    Hi has anyone every use " Casite " Motor Honey Engine oil leak stopper ?

My engine was rebuilt in 1980, sat around for years not being used, so I think seals dryed up.

When I start my car it smokes allot. and driving down hill you can see out my back window

a billow of smoke coming from the tail pipe.

  If I use this will it help my " Smoking " car, any imput is welcome, thank you PP

[nickelroadster]

It doesn't sound like your problem is an oil leak.  It seems more likely that your rings are stuck.  I would continue to drive it and see if it won't improve by itself.  Additionally, there are rebuilds and there are rebuilds.  What do you know about the quality of your rebuild?

[Guest PetePontiac]

After I drive my car 300 - 400 miles I have to add a quart of oil.  This has been going on for years.

[Larry W]

What kind of car? Perhaps the engine wasn't broken in properly.

[cahartley]

How about taking another tack?

Take out the plugs and put a few tablespoons of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder.

Put the plugs back in but don't attach the wires (or ground the coil wire), turn the engine over a few times and let it sit a day or so.

Then start it up and go beat the snot out of it under varying load conditions.

Up and down hills is the perfect scenario for this........beat it on the way up and take 'er light on the way down.

Just sitting is THE worst thing that can happen to an engine.

[Friartuck]

Agree with cahartley, this doesn't sound like a leak and time to seek another solution. My suggestion is use Sea Foam cleaner & lubricant to free up stubborn rings: http://seafoamsales.com/   You can use Sea Foam in both the fuel and crankcase. Its one "snake oil" that has a proven track record. Available at most auto stores like Napa and even Walmart.

[Curti]

Agree with cahartley, this doesn't sound like a leak and time to seek another solution. My suggestion is use Sea Foam cleaner & lubricant to free up stubborn rings: http://seafoamsales.com/   You can use Sea Foam in both the fuel and crankcase. Its one "snake oil" that has a proven track record. Available at most auto stores like Napa and even Walmart.

 

 I second this motion. Seafoam works!

[Guest PetePontiac]

Well I have been using Sea Foam in my gas tank along with adding it to my oil for years.

Mystery Oil I have been adding every time I change my oil, one quart Mystery oil and 5 quarts of oil.

  I will try putting a few drops Mystery oil down the piston heads.

thanks PP 

[Friartuck]

Perhaps perform a compression test on all cylinders to baseline each cylinder. Maybe do a leak down test while you're at it? Is it possible a ring broke when rebuilt in 1980? This would confirm or identify a problem of the rebuild. What story do spark plug's color tell about each cyl firing? I don't regularly use MMO, but 1 in 5 sounds like a high concentration. 1 quart in 400 miles should show as an obvious leak if seals. Just my $.02.

[Phillip Cole]

I use Seafoam, but not for seals. It removes contaminates, deposits, etc. I doubt that it would help much with seals.

I'm curious... what color is the smoke? Light or dark?

BTW, MMO does recommend a 20 to 25% mixture.

Edited July 2, 2015 by Phillip Cole (see edit history)

[Larry W]

If I may elaborate a bit on Carhartley's excellent suggestion, you need to " load" the engine in order to "seat" the piston rings. You don't say what kind of vehicle you have, but if it has a standard shift transmission, you may be shifting gears at too high of RPM's and not putting enough of a load on the engine. In an effort to rectify your oil consumption condition, I would shift gears at a much lower RPM, almost to the point of lugging the engine, for a while and see if the condition improves. This is, of course, assuming that your oil loss is actualy caused by the piston rings. Larry W

[Guest PetePontiac]

My car is a 1938 Pontiac " 6 " cylinder.  3 speed on the floor.

The smoke is grey in color.  thanks PP

[ckowner]

Here is my experience with rebuilt engines and smoke. I bought a 1931 Chrysler CM drive train from a restored car that had been in a museum and was being turned into a rod. Things were great till run time. Lots of smoke and blow by. Took the engine apart to determine the source of the smoke. The engine had the wrong pistons and 4 pistons had no oil rings. Yes, there are rebuilds and rebuilds.

CKowner

[Guest PetePontiac]

Well here is a update:

I put MMO in each of the cylinder heads,,, that did not help.

 

Check the compression:

Firing order # 1- compression 105

                      #5 - comp.               105

                      #3 - comp.              100

                      #6 - comp.               105

                      # 2- comp.               110

                      # 4- comp.               105

I did put in a new set of spark plugs and after 100 miles the plugs are turning black in color....

 

[Rusty_OToole]

Your compression is good, nothing wrong with the valves or rings, unless maybe the compression rings are in upside down (it happens)  

 

Black smoke is gas, blue smoke is oil, white smoke is water, gray smoke is ????

 

You need to figure out where the smoke is coming from. The black plugs may be a clue. Are they oily or dry? Oily means oil, dry sooty deposits means gas. The amount of MMM you put in there, and in the gas, may have something to do with it.

 

What about oil leaks? Is the outside of the engine oily and dripping with oil? If you park over a sheet of cardboard where are the drips?

 

You might have to clean the engine, run it,  then trace the fresh oil back to the source to find exactly where the leak is.

 

Think like a doctor diagnosing a patient or a scientist doing an experiment. You have to find out what the problem is then you will know what to do about it.

Edited July 10, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[cahartley]

While you may have driven the car 100 miles did you beat it?

Just puttering around won't "fix" anything.......you HAVE to make the engine work in order for anything to have any effect.

[uh6077]

If the car has been ideling a lot or just slow speed driving the plugs will get black and sooty. You need to beat on it a bit. Find a big hill, go slow until you start going up then pedal down hard. This will make the engine work hard. Your compression numbers are good. All within 10% of each other which is optimal. Check all the obvious things (timing, over filled crankcase, oily air filters). Make sure you are using the recommended spark plug. If so then try going to the next hotter plug (lower number). 

[Guest]

Here is my experience with rebuilt engines and smoke. I bought a 1931 Chrysler CM drive train from a restored car that had been in a museum and was being turned into a rod. Things were great till run time. Lots of smoke and blow by. Took the engine apart to determine the source of the smoke. The engine had the wrong pistons and 4 pistons had no oil rings. Yes, there are rebuilds and rebuilds.

CKowner

I had an almost identical experience with my 31 Cadillac. It smoked like a freight train, but had good compression. 3 cylinders had spark plugs wet with oil. I pulled all of the pistons out, and those three cylinders had 4 compression rings and no oil control rings installed.

[Rusty_OToole]

If the engine burns oil from lack of use or stuck rings I don't think you need to beat on it so much as drive until it is completely warmed up. With a heavy cast iron engine this can take quite a while. Once it is hot the break in begins. Suggest you drive it at least 50 - 100 miles or all day if possible.

[Guest PetePontiac]

Well the spark plugs are dry  black carbon " must be running to rich " .

 

I have beat on it, these old Pontiac can take it.

 

As for oil drips, I thought I had a leak from the enginne oil pan so I replaced the gasket.

After that still had a little drip on the floor. What the drip was coming from is there a grease fitting

that sits under my radiator. After the car is hot the heat from the radiator melts the grease and drips on the floor.

 

I will take out the old girl and beat on it some more on the hills, thanks PP.

[Guest PetePontiac]

  Well I TOOK her out for a 60 mile spin.

Ran her hard going up hills. There was some smoke  coming out of the tail pipe going down hills.

 So the next time I take her, " MAYBE " it will get better.   PP.

[Friartuck]

CKowner and 31Caddy comments on their personal experiences seem to dictate the next step. Bite the bullet. Pull the head and yank the pistons and investigate why this is happening. I can see oil burning in the first 10 or so miles, but not after 50-60 miles. Something is wrong. Time to find out what before serious damage is done.

[Guest PetePontiac]

As for my car useing  oil , I was at the PONTIAC FLATHEAD REUNION car tour  and talked to other flathead

owners and their PONTIACS use oil also.  So it must be the way the cars were made way back when.

As for the smoke going down hill, I talked to a mechanic and when you go down hill the oil will some time

move up to the lifters causing the car to SMOKE......Thanks PP...

[Guest Bob Call]

I am by no means an expert, but, if the plugs are dry black sooty it is running rich. Adjust the carb, check that the choke plate is fully open. Next, if it were me I wouldn't be diluting the crankcase oil with Marvel Mystery Oil, run straight 30W which is what was used in these engines when they were new.  Seafoam or MMO in gas might be alright but not really necessary if the engine is in good condition. If after adjusting the carb and ditching the MMO it is still smoking it's time to pull the head and pan and take out the pistons one at a time and check the rings. Might be that there is no oil control ring, or, scrapper rings are upside down and pushing oil up the cylinder wall rather than down. A recently rebuilt engine should not be using a quart of oil as fast as you say this does. Back in the day normal was using a quart at most between oil changes every 2000 to 2500 miles. If your engine is using a quart in less than 500 miles something is seriously wrong.