K8096 Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 I'm going to be building my dream garage later this summer, and would like to know how high of a garage door would I need to fit a standard 22' or 24' enclosed car trailer. I went to Wells Cargo's web site and it looks like most car trailers are around 8'6" tall or so, so I guess a 9' door would do it. Does that sound right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 My advice is 10'. Too high is infinately better than too *$!$#* low....Bob <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 It not door height that is the question its the inside latch to floor dimention you need to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Green Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 And don't forget about the roof ventilation covers if so equipped as these are not figured into the trailer height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ex98thdrill Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 I'd go with a 10 foot or 12 foot door. If you ever decide to get a camper or motorhome, the 12 foor door would allow you more versatility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd go with a 10 foot or 12 foot door. If you ever decide to get a camper or motorhome, the 12 foor door would allow you more versatility. </div></div>...or, if you decide to sell, it will make it that much more attractive to perspective buyers, who may have a need to store a motorhome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 All good advice, but another key question is...does your driveway slope up or down to your garage? If so, you will need a taller door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 I'm assuming that, as your "dream garage," you're putting in a nice downdraft paint booth, a couple of hoists (both a drive-on and side lift), piped in oxy-acetylene lines, proper machining lathe, and (of course) refrigerator. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Green Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Quote: "does your driveway slope up or down to your garage? If so, you will need a taller door."And possibly a trailer that doesn't sit to low like a Haulmark racing type trailer. Mine won't go up my brothers driveway (scrapes) due to the slope, trailer & truck length and the trailer being to close to the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K8096 Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 I'll have to see how much more the cost will be for higher garage doors. I was quoted $37,000 for a 40 X 60 garage with three 16 X 7 doors plus an enterance door. That's without electric, insulation, or drywall. No windows (security hazard). Exterior vinyn sided with a 30 year roof and gutters. I'll contract the electric out myself after it's built and will have a 220 line installed for a large compressor which I already have. I figure the insullation & drywall I can do myself a little at a time over the next couple years. Yes, I plan to eventually have a car lift. I don't know about the fridge, but I do plan on a stereo, microwave, and coffee maker! Also, I want to paint the floor with oil resistant paint. The land it will be built on is very flat. I just went to Haulmark's website & it looks like their 22' or 24' trailers are all 8'5" tall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 A garage that size is what every car collector needs! You'll have a good time filling it up. I'm an engineer with experience in the design of commercial and residential buildings. Before you sign anything with the contractor, you might want to learn exactly what "extras" will be needed. That price for that square footage works out to only $15 per square foot, so it seems evident to me that many things are not being included. Is it a stick-framed garage (i.e. 2x4 wood studs) or a pole building? Usually those quoted low prices don't include foundations or a concrete slab! Does the price include erecting the building, or just supplying it? Is the building designed for snow load and wind load suitable for your climate? Often those pre-fab buildings are lightly constructed, and I wouldn't necessarily count on the municipal code reviewer to know what loads are appropriate. The thickness of the siding may be the thinnest kind available.We want you to enjoy the new building--but be sure to know all the facts before entering an agreement!Has anyone in the forum had some experience in building a garage? Any good cost data? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 I just had a 32 X 44 X 12 building put up for me. It is a pole type building and included a finished concrete floor (3500 psi), side wall insulation, white steel ceiling with 8" of insulation, 3 double glass windows, two 16 X 10 insulated overhead doors, and an insulated steel entrance door. Everything but rain gutters. Total cost excluding site prep was $32,000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Bhigdog, that cost data should be helpful. Thanks for being so specific.I notice that your pole building, as reasonably priced as it was, was still 50% more expensive per square foot than the one for which Mr. K8 got a quote. Also, he says his building is to have vinyl siding and a 30-year roof, which leads me to think his is stick-framed (i.e. 2x4 or 2x6 studs), not a pole building. And a garage such as that should be considerably more expensive than a pole building.One person I spoke to in Delaware is planning a multi-bay garage to match his house. He was receiving quotes in the range of $100 per square foot, which he felt was not worth it. However, he was in a fairly high-cost area, and he was including a considerable amount of architectural niceties for appearance's sake. Recall that Mr. K8 got a quote for $15 per square foot. K8, if you're still checking this thread in the forum, you should get from your prospective contractors a DETAILED specification of everything they are providing. (Also a list of what they are excluding.) The contractor I worked for for many years did such a thing. I mean, the thickness of the vinyl, the thickness of the roof underlayment, the size and concrete strength of the foundation wall, the names and model numbers of any equipment, the R-value of the insulation...EVERYTHING. If certain things are not known at this time, there should be dollar "allowances" in the price quotation, and you should verify that those allowances are realistic. Of course, getting an impeccably honest and competent contractor is first and foremost, and a good one will be more than happy to give this level of detail. All of you with these capacious new garages may have to buy a few more cars to fill them up! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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