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1952 Dodge Gyromatic carburetor problems


52 Dodge Ed

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I rebuilt the carb on my Coronet Diplomat twice. It runs and shifts fine for a few weeks.   Then begins, skipping, missing, not revving properly.  I'm looking for a solution so that I can drive my car.  I can't find a replacement carb.  Is it possible to bypass the electrical devices on the carb in order to shift into overdrive with a simple switch, using a non-gyromatic carb?  Other solutions welcomed.  Thanks  

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4 hours ago, 52 Dodge Ed said:

I rebuilt the carb on my Coronet Diplomat twice. It runs and shifts fine for a few weeks.   Then begins, skipping, missing, not revving properly.  I'm looking for a solution so that I can drive my car.  I can't find a replacement carb.  Is it possible to bypass the electrical devices on the carb in order to shift into overdrive with a simple switch, using a non-gyromatic carb?  Other solutions welcomed.  Thanks  

Time to figure out why it goes wrong. It sounds like an electrical problem to me. Something in the ignition? A loose or frayed wire? Does it come and go? Do you check the ignition, wiring and fuel feed when it goes wrong?

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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Probably this BXVES-3 Stromberg carb...you do need that carb with the KD switch and the anti-stall solenoid for the M-6 ( no overdrive) to upshift and downshift properly.

I too think you might have an electrical wiring Screenshot_20221201-120401_Chrome_eIYjplvD9C.jpeg.3c0d2880f631ea707fe71093904f6e12.jpeg20221201_170108_cqqnsFPq69.jpeg.d45717f90d5b499f4962ffbf4ebf6299.jpegor ignition system issue.

An old transmission wiring harniss with bad cloth insulation can ground out the ignition.

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16 hours ago, 52 Dodge Ed said:

Then begins, skipping, missing, not revving properly.

 

I REALLY think the gyro transmission in this case is a red herring.

 

Transmissions do not cause "skipping, missing, not revving properly".

 

That Stromberg carburetor, other than the stuff grafted on for the transmission, is one of the most reliable single barrel carbs ever built; anywhere, any time, any price! These, when they fail, fail over decades, not weeks. Even if you can find a workaround for the shifting; there is NO finer carburetor which you can buy!

 

My first guess is not enough driving, and fuel is going bad, which will cause all of the above. Even my low compression tractor didn't like 3 month old fuel! Second guess is ignition, especially if the condition gets worse as the engine becomes hotter.

 

Jon

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Yes....the Dodge Stromberg carbs are really trouble free.

Only bad thing on the BXVES-3 is the throttle levers are swedged to the throttle shaft and can come loose. Causing erractic idle.

The reason...flooring the throttle to kick down into 3rd gear with the M-6 transmission.

Proper throttle linkage adjustment prevents excessive force on the throttle lever to KD switch on the carb.

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Carb king once said something that I wish I was told decades ago.  
90% of all carburetor problems are electrical.

 Check the wires and ignition system first. 

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My guess is that your electrical (high tenstion ignition) system is only marginally functional and once tepid gas gets in there it starts to misbehave.

 

I'm assuming you've got a flathead; while those run fine on 87, since you are barely driving, fill it with 93 and you'll have a much better time. But when you have a chance I would also check your ignition system and timing.

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Yes, it's the BXVES-3 Stromberg.   Carbking, can you tell me WHERE these carbs are readily available?  Of course the transmission wouldn't cause the skipping and missing, I only mentioned the gyromatic so people would understand that I couldn't just replace the carb with a non-gyromatic type.  I will go over the ignition system again, though I replaced everything less than 500 miles ago, and it ran beautifully.   I also have heard the "most carburetor problems are electrical"  saying, and carefully checked the wires to the carb first thing.  Interesting thought on the throttle levers being swedged to the throttle shaft. I will investigate that.  Though I don't "floor it" who knows what previous drivers have done?  Thank you all for responding.

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Coil or condenser failing when heated up? Vacuum leak at manifold or carb gasket? Gas tank vent blocked? When it starts acting up, will adding fuel or partial choking smooth it out? Try running your own power wire direct from battery to coil primary and see if that smooths it out (failing ignition switch, grounding wire). Is the fuel tank rusty inside?

There are several paths to investigate! I hope this helps you!

Edited by Wascator (see edit history)
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c49er, I think you're on to something with the pin hole idea.  The tank and pickup are fairly new.  But I do recall the rubber fuel line looked iffy when I replaced the failed fuel pump. I didn't have one to install at the time.  That would certainly fit the symptoms that started my whole disaster.  Now to get it on the lift!  

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Pin hole leaks in the tank to engine fuel line can be tested for using a vacuum method.  
plug one end of the fuel line and connect a vacuum pump to the other.  The line should hold a vacuum without difficulty.  
 

Did this on one car and as I applied the vacuum fuel readily filled the little capture cup.  (One man brake bleeder).  Turns out there was a crack in the tubing big enough that the residual fuel in the line flowed as easily as if the end wasn’t plugged.  No wonder it kept stalling.  

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On 6/10/2024 at 3:49 PM, 52 Dodge Ed said:

Is it possible to bypass the electrical devices on the carb in order to shift into overdrive with a simple switch, using a non-gyromatic carb? 

Just a technical correction, this is not an overdrive transmission  Fourth gear is direct drive not an overdrive gear.

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