Installing Water Pump Packing in a 1926 Star Model F 4 cyl Continental Engine

[3macboys]

I already have my packing cut to length, with the diagonal end cuts ready to install.  I have three cut and will put them in around the clock as it were with the seem at different points.  I've back the nut out as far as it can go, however, it is now into the covering that wraps around the shaft between the distributor and the pump and there is not enough room to get the packing in.  I'm looking for the next step and don't want to disassemble more than is required.  This is where I am at so far:

 

 

Any guidance is appreciated.  

 

Don

[29 Chandler]

At least on my 1914 Chandler I could not find an easy way to replace the packing without removing the pump first.

 

 

[dibarlaw]

I am not aware of the original design of the pump but I think the driving shaft may have been cut and the hose collar and bolts may have been added at a later date. This was done on many early distributer driven pump shafts. Easier to remove than taking out more components. Then add a connecting collar and either it was pinned or bolted.

My 1925 Buick's design.

 

[3macboys]

On 3/8/2024 at 5:53 PM, 29 Chandler said:

At least on my 1914 Chandler I could not find an easy way to replace the packing without removing the pump first.

 

 

 

On 3/9/2024 at 10:58 PM, dibarlaw said:

I am not aware of the original design of the pump but I think the driving shaft may have been cut and the hose collar and bolts may have been added at a later date. This was done on many early distributer driven pump shafts. Easier to remove than taking out more components. Then add a connecting collar and either it was pinned or bolted.

Thank you very much to both of you!  I would never have thought that the hose was acting as a connector but it completed makes sense.  Based on the information provided by both of you and looking a bit more at things it turns out indeed the best course of action was to remove the pump and work on it on the bench.  Once I looked at the two bottom rad hoses it looks like both are starting to crack so removal made even more sense and replace all the hoses while I'm at it.

 

After a little clean up I'll get the packing in on the bench, which no doubt will be easier.  I also plan to replace those worm clamps with wire hose clamps.  

 

Thanks again - I'm glad that I hit pause and asked first!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rusty_OToole]

Good for you, do the job right and look forward to many miles of trouble free driving.

[Grimy]

The wire hose clamps aren't very good at *initial* sealing, so when installing new hose I put a pair of wire hose clamps in the center of the new hose section, snugged just enough so they don't flop around, then use modern worm gear clamps as shown on the ends.  After 20 or 30 heating-cooling cycles, the new hoses are more or less bonded, so one at a time, unscrew completely and remove a worm gear clamp and slide the wire clamp down and secure it.  My experience is that it's well nigh impossible to get a wire clamp started on the car once it's been pulled apart.

[BobinVirginia]

@Grimy

Great insight from experience. Thanks 

[Grimy]

Just now, BobinVirginia said:

@Grimy

Great insight from experience. Thanks 

The lessons learned the hardest are the lessons learned the best!  🙂 

[BobinVirginia]

2 minutes ago, Grimy said:

The lessons learned the hardest are the lessons learned the best!  🙂 

That’s the absolute truth. Thanks for advising and helping others avoid such lessons!! 

[3macboys]

11 hours ago, Grimy said:

The lessons learned the hardest are the lessons learned the best!  🙂 

With time I've learned to listen to those who've learned the hard way.  Much appreciated advice!

[DFeeney]

I have learned so much from this forum that if I live much longer I'm afraid my "Head will crack  Open".  Thanks to all who share the "Real Information and tips."