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1927 Buick 27-27


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Built that shop for my father - a tool and die maker by trade. He always wanted his own shop when he retired- the plan was for him to move here on my property with my mother after he retired. I’m glad he got to see the shop I put together for him - very sad he never got to move here to enjoy it before he passed. 
 

The only picture I have of him in the machine shop was one I took as he was prepping the big Monarch for paint as I was sheathing the walls  

 

More  Buick restoration tomorrow- IMG_1877.jpeg.45988d0cf1cbfbd6c9bc03fd1c628265.jpeg

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What a great shop! I'm sure your daddy would have loved to work in there. A frigging raccoon is one of the most destructive animals on the planet.I hate them because they have cost me many laying hens through the years.

 

As I type this post,I'm looking at four of them on my patio right now,eating bird seed that has fallen to the ground.

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I’ve got a live trap set- found they gnawed their way in from a loafing shed connected to the barn and into the attic space above the hayloft. We’ll see what the morning brings….
 

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I did remove the oil pump and gave it a cleaning as well. 
 

I wasn’t able to get the rear main cap off tonight. I didn’t want to beat on it- I’ll try more persuasion tomorrow. 
 

I will say removing the oil plumbing was a rather foul smelling experience- smelled more foul than gear oil. 

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Main caps removed tonight. All the babbet looks good. 3 shims at each cap. I’ll pull connecting rod caps next and pull the crankshaft to replace the rear main seal. A lot of work to prevent a leak but I’d be kicking myself if I didn’t replace the seal after going this far into it. I’m hoping to get the bottom end buttoned up this weekend oil pan back on and the painting process started. 
 

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On 2/14/2024 at 7:29 PM, Slawnski said:

I will say removing the oil plumbing was a rather foul smelling experience- smelled more foul than gear oil. 

Interesting that you stated this - when I recently removed the bolts from my 1932 Buick crank counterweight, I had the same reaction, it was like smelling rancid organic oil dinosaur sewage decomposition, it was prolific around the car, and the only thing I could think about was that I was the first person to remove the bolts post-factory, that maybe the bolts were last dipped in 1931-32 era oil prior to assembly.

The smell was so profound that I asked my son for his thoughts and he was also repulsed, so I knew my old nose still worked.

 

Not sure if we had similar experiences about old organic oil, but I thought it interesting since our exposure to old cars is more than glass, metal and rubber...

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33 minutes ago, 32buick67 said:

Interesting that you stated this - when I recently removed the bolts from my 1932 Buick crank counterweight, I had the same reaction, it was like smelling rancid organic oil dinosaur sewage decomposition, it was prolific around the car, and the only thing I could think about was that I was the first person to remove the bolts post-factory, that maybe the bolts were last dipped in 1931-32 era oil prior to assembly.

The smell was so profound that I asked my son for his thoughts and he was also repulsed, so I knew my old nose still worked.

 

Not sure if we had similar experiences about old organic oil, but I thought it interesting since our exposure to old cars is more than glass, metal and rubber...

Very interesting indeed! It was such a profoundly funky smell- or rather is a profoundly funky small at least until the lower end is cleaned and back together. Very well could be remnants of the 1927 assembly lube…. 

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Tonight:

 

Rod caps pulled- 3 shims at all rod caps as well. The babbet was still good - a couple visible lines but nothing that could be felt / didn’t catch a nail. 
 

Crank pulled

 

New rear seal 1/2 installed

 

Crank back in place 

 

I’ll let the cork seal 1/2 settle in- tomorrow I’ll trim the seal and install the remaining seal in the cap and install- I think I’ve got one shot to get the seal length right - I think? 
 

I need to pick up new cotter pins and safety  wire. I’m going to re-use the gaskets at the oil fittings at the bearing caps. 
 

The connecting rod caps were are stamped with the piston number - not sure if this was factory- or was done at a time when new babbet was poured? Im assuming it received new babbet at some time in its 97 years. 

 

There is also 5U stamped into the flange - any ideas? 

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The never fail raccoon trap. Get a large metal trash can. Using heavy multi strand wire attach a small leg trap to handle. Set the trap in the bottom of the can. Add some canned or dry cat food in the bottom of the trash can. Put the cover on the trash can. The next day you will have a trapped racoon. I caught seven of them from my chicken house using this method when all else failed. And you don't have to worry about trapping other animals because they can't take the cover off like a coon can.

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Slow weekend 27 Buick -wise. 
 

Lower cork rear seal was trimmed rear main cap has cork inserted and a socket used to seat the cork into the seal ( thanks Hugh!) 

 

Previous split seals on other engines I’ve worked on were always installed with a dab of gasket sealant at each end where seal 1/2 meets seal 1/2. What I noticed in this case is that the three shims at either side of the cap also covers the seal area- I’m not sure that the ‘ol dab o sealant would be effective- any thoughts on this? 

I’ll seat rear cap tomorrow along with the oil system installation. 
 

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Edited by Slawnski (see edit history)
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I trimmed the main cap cork and bolted cap down to seat the cork. I’ll pull the cap tomorrow and final trim- add shims and torque bolts/ safety wire the nuts and oil pump fittings. 
 

more photos of the stamps on the flange. 

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Also received my valves, valve guides, and inner springs from Egge today IMG_1978.jpeg.a1e373457005d941a7c65a2096268ad0.jpegIMG_1979.jpeg.e376961d7b07abae32a6e95ef275447c.jpeg Next step is getting the head to a shop for valve seats and have them install guides, valves, ect. Hopefully when the head comes back I’ll have the engine ready for the head to go back on. 

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Main caps back on- rod caps on- I’ll install the cotter pins tomorrow and hopefully get the bottom end wrapped up - feels like I’ve spent way too long looking at the underside / inside of this engine. 
 

can anybody confirm torque specs? Since the castle it’s get pinned - how much are you relying on torque? 

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The next guy in this lower end will

NOT mistake me for an aviation mechanic…

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safety wires installed on the oil fittings to main caps- triple checked everything and installed the oil pan. Cleaning and paint this weekend. I’ll start the mobile engine/transmission stand as well, if time allows. 
 

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Two coats of enamel on the pan tonight. I’ll see how well that covered tomorrow. I’ll trim the excess sealant at the edge of the pan/gasket, spin the engine over and prep the rest of the engine for paint. I’ve got to work this weekend so progress has been slow- but it’s progress nonetheless. 
 

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Side note: I paid a visit to the machine shop that will be working on my head Friday.  it’s a well established shop after a short tour of the place I can say I’m very comfortable with them. I’ll be dropping off the head, guides, valves, and springs Monday. 

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Too thick on the paint, or I didn’t wait long enough between coats, or there is an adhesion issue. Slight striations in two places on the oil pan. I’m going to give this one more day before I rotate and work on the body of the engine. After the rest of the crankcase is painted I’ll revisit the pan and see how it has cured.- possibly scuff and recoat.
 

 I thought I had pictures- I’ll take a close-up photo or two tomorrow. 
 

Dropping off the head tomorrow- very much looking forward to talking to the machinist who will be working on the head of my 27. 

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Slight panic attack- rotated the crankshaft to a very definitive stop as if something in the motor was making contact with something it shouldn’t be. Rotated back and hit the same stopping point. Did I leave something in the crankcase?  Oh man,,,, time to pull the pan off again….. rolled the engine over (oil pan up) and tried to rotate…. It rotates all the way around….. oh man. Rolled the engine over again listening for a thunk or a clunk- nothing. With the engine upright again I tried to rotate- solid stop. Ugh!!! 
 

turns out the engine shifts juuust enough from its hanging / mounting points that one of the bolts on the crankshaft hits the engine mount….  engine turns free after moving that bolt back slightly. Very relieved-   but that’s enough excitement for one night. 

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Looks really great.I feel for you with the wire wheeling. When doing my car,I wore out probably 25 wire wheels of all shapes and sizes and burned up two 3/8" drill motors.However, it had to be done. I also did a lot of grinding and sand blasting,too.It was worth it.

Edited by Andy J (see edit history)
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More cleaning. Getting close a few more hours of scrubbing and masking - I’m hoping to paint Sunday. I’m going to try spraying it- we’ll see how that goes

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Also started the setup of the engine/ transmission stand. Built on a rolling cart- I will be able to put the whole assembly from crank start snout through the entire transmission on it - assembled and movable through my shop. It’ll keep everything together when I get  to work on the chassis. IMG_3239.jpeg.ad597ba9c27de1f2942bf32129bb0277.jpegIMG_3240.jpeg.ab5172651c6bb4c876f119803850ab46.jpegIMG_3242.jpeg.3372876db365abc2f4063617446e81d9.jpeg

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I’ve had this quart for awhile but went to order more and saw it out of stock.  I called them about a week ago and I was told they would be producing early Buick green in two weeks- they suggested I order the paint - and they would ship as soon as they have it made. I’m guessing it’ll be another week before they make and ship early Buick green next. 

5 hours ago, BuickTom87 said:

Did you happen to recently purchase the green motor paint? Bill Hirsch is currently out of stock 

 

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Sprayed the first coat tonight- I’ll be spraying the enamel from now on. Used a small touch up gun- 30psi- I’ll wait an hour and give it another coat. Very happy with the results- I’ll touch up spots I miss with a brush 

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8 minutes ago, Slawnski said:

I’ve had this quart for awhile but went to order more and saw it out of stock.  I called them about a week ago and I was told they would be producing early Buick green in two weeks- they suggested I order the paint - and they would ship as soon as they have it made. I’m guessing it’ll be another week before they make and ship early Buick green next. 

 

Interesting I’ll call back tmrw I called last week I was told that they had no idea if or when it’ll come back in stock 

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Second coat about an hour later. Demasked and I’m feeling pretty good about the results. Heat lamps on for a bit and I cranked up the heat in the shop overnight. 
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1 hour ago, BuickTom87 said:

Interesting I’ll call back tmrw I called last week I was told that they had no idea if or when it’ll come back in stock 

Let me know what they say. I have 1/2 a quart left after painting the block, pan and housing/mount. Might have enough to paint what’s left but I’d like to have another quart just in case. 

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