Joao46 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 It seems to be the general opinion that Cornhead grease is the best for 30s cars steering boxes. I did read that it contains extreme pressure additives. Would they be detrimental to any yellow metals in the box like they are in hypoid oils ? How about the Studebaker Grease I see sometimes on eBay? Any experience with those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave39MD Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Reading about corn head grease it seems it does not get hot enough in most steering boxes to liquify so it ends up channeling like grease. I mix mine with some 600w so it is always semi liquid and still does not all leak out. I have not seen anything on corn head about yellow metals but there have been many posts about it on this and other sites. Might be able to search for old posts. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee H Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 There’s nothing magical about cornhead grease. Deere’s version is NLGI 0, not particularly thin (00 and 000 are thinner), and they do not publish their ASTM D4048 copper corrosion results (which is behind the issues with yellow metals). EP additives are only a problem if they are sulfur based. Read the attached data for Mobilux greases. Most pass D4048, and there are more viscosities available. Note some grades are marketed toward poorly sealing gearboxes. May be just what you are looking for. https://www.mobil.com/en-us/grease/pds/gl-xx-mobilux-ep-series 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Corn head grease should not be used in steering boxes………. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joao46 Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 No? Lots of people at least in the old Mopar community uses Cornhead grease. well regardless, I think the point is to use a soft grease that tends to fill all crevices but is not a liquid since it will leak. My 31 had a yellow grease I could see in the steering box but I chose to fill it with 600w oil and much of it leaked out in a few days. Maybe I’ll leave it alone or try Studebaker steering box grease. Im just concerned about compatibility between greases. Heck I’m now worried about compatibility between the grease that was in there and the 600w oil. I’ll tell you what these prewar cars are more full of mysteries than the cars I’ve worked on before. Ive had a 50 Dodge where the steering used gear oil and a 65 VW where it was sealed for life. The Spitfire uses plain grease on the rack. But at least on these younger classics, there is more available technical info. Maybe Model A is easier as there is still plenty of support out there. I do notice one thing in common, you want to start a fight just ask what the best engine oil is for your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramair Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I agree with Ed on corn head grease and I am a farmer with many pounds of corn head grease available to me. Specifically it is used in chain drive boxes that get hot, but not super hot with the motions of the chain and gears. For instance in my Pickett one step bean cutter the gear box gets up to 140 degrees, when I shut the machine off the grease is a heavy liquid and self levels itself. The only way it will self level on a steering gear box is to get the temperature up under the hood so that the gearbox reaches at least 125 degrees. Short of lighting a fire under the box, or you could you drain out the water out of the engine and run it up hill😁, seriously I am not trying to be a smart..s. I think we all know that the original spec oil was the best to prevent wear, unfortunately poor seals of the day along with wear caused by losing all the oil was a compound problem. This has led me to believe that some of the mixes that have been blended between grease and oil might be the answer until you can overhaul with new seals and go back to heavy oil, no disrespect to John Deere, but I believe corn head is only slightly better than leaving your gearbox dry. i am not a engineer or any kind of expert, my opinion only, 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsmoke Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I used 600W in the gearbox for my 1931 Chrysler CD8. After sitting and rolling it around in the shop for 2 years, not a drop has leaked out. There are only 2 places it might leak, out along the sector gear shaft, where there are 2 very snug fitting brass bushings that need to remain lubricated. Nothing has gotten past these on my car. The more likely leak spot is at the bottom end where CLUM switch rods come thru. The old felt bushings for mine were well worn and likely would have leaked. I had a friend with some grease packing rope, I removed the old felt and I wrapped some of that around the recess, leaving it slightly proud of the end, and the end cap pressed it very tight, but not binding. No leaks so far. So if your box is prone to leak there, I'd examine the option of removing the CLUM switch and it's various brackets/levers at lower end of box, and replacing the lower seal. This does not require removing the various rods from column or horn wire. Here are some pics of the bottom end of a box from an earlier car, (note light switch rods were pulled out from top) and my CD8, there are usually 2 screws holding the assembly plate to the steering box, and once removed, the felt seal is accessible. Take plenty photos of assembly beforehand to ensure everything gets back together in correct order and at correct angles etc. Good Luck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joao46 Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 50 minutes ago, Gunsmoke said: I used 600W in the gearbox for my 1931 Chrysler CD8. After sitting and rolling it around in the shop for 2 years, not a drop has leaked out. There are only 2 places it might leak, out along the sector gear shaft, where there are 2 very snug fitting brass bushings that need to remain lubricated. Nothing has gotten past these on my car. The more likely leak spot is at the bottom end where CLUM switch rods come thru. The old felt bushings for mine were well worn and likely would have leaked. I had a friend with some grease packing rope, I removed the old felt and I wrapped some of that around the recess, leaving it slightly proud of the end, and the end cap pressed it very tight, but not binding. No leaks so far. So if your box is prone to leak there, I'd examine the option of removing the CLUM switch and it's various brackets/levers at lower end of box, and replacing the lower seal. This does not require removing the various rods from column or horn wire. Here are some pics of the bottom end of a box from an earlier car, (note light switch rods were pulled out from top) and my CD8, there are usually 2 screws holding the assembly plate to the steering box, and once removed, the felt seal is accessible. Take plenty photos of assembly beforehand to ensure everything gets back together in correct order and at correct angles etc. Good Luck Ok what’s a CLUM switch? And thanks for the tips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 (edited) On 1/26/2024 at 11:10 PM, ramair said: I agree with Ed on corn head grease and I am a farmer with many pounds of corn head grease available to me. Specifically it is used in chain drive boxes that get hot, but not super hot with the motions of the chain and gears. For instance in my Pickett one step bean cutter the gear box gets up to 140 degrees, when I shut the machine off the grease is a heavy liquid and self levels itself. The only way it will self level on a steering gear box is to get the temperature up under the hood so that the gearbox reaches at least 125 degrees. Short of lighting a fire under the box, or you could you drain out the water out of the engine and run it up hill😁, seriously I am not trying to be a smart..s. I think we all know that the original spec oil was the best to prevent wear, unfortunately poor seals of the day along with wear caused by losing all the oil was a compound problem. This has led me to believe that some of the mixes that have been blended between grease and oil might be the answer until you can overhaul with new seals and go back to heavy oil, no disrespect to John Deere, but I believe corn head is only slightly better than leaving your gearbox dry. i am not a engineer or any kind of expert, my opinion only, 100 percent correct.........👍 I might also add, we have made steering boxes from scratch, and reproduced parts for Ross & Gemmer boxes. Edited January 29 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsmoke Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Joao46 asked "Ok what’s a CLUM switch?". CLUM was a company in Milwaukee who specializd in electric light and ignition switches like those used on Chryslers of the period and other makes. I've often heard of the lighting switch on these cars called a CLUM switch. The attached diagram shows the steering box for a Chrysler CD8, from my owners manual. Imperials I expect are similar although you may need to have a schematic of an Imperial box before proceeding. The part #48 is referred to as "steering gear housing felt washer" and part 58 is the CLUM lighting switch. The felt washer fits in a recess and tightly around the steering shaft preventing oil leakage. As an editorial comment, the whole notion of having lighting switch and throttle advance controls on the steering button was not very practical, and before long these controls were moved to the dash with everything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joao46 Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Gunsmoke said: Joao46 asked "Ok what’s a CLUM switch?". CLUM was a company in Milwaukee who specializd in electric light and ignition switches like those used on Chryslers of the period and other makes. I've often heard of the lighting switch on these cars called a CLUM switch. The attached diagram shows the steering box for a Chrysler CD8, from my owners manual. Imperials I expect are similar although you may need to have a schematic of an Imperial box before proceeding. The part #48 is referred to as "steering gear housing felt washer" and part 58 is the CLUM lighting switch. The felt washer fits in a recess and tightly around the steering shaft preventing oil leakage. As an editorial comment, the whole notion of having lighting switch and throttle advance controls on the steering button was not very practical, and before long these controls were moved to the dash with everything else. Wow, they sure upgraded the box. The imperial I have has a cam and lever design. Thanks for the info. Edited January 29 by Joao46 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joao46 Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Does anyone know how the spring located at the bottom on the steering column is supposed work? Is it supposed to return the lever to the idle position or is it supposed to just hold it in the position you lest it go at and act like a cruise control? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Post photos The lever should stay anywhere you place it. Regardless if your turning or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joao46 Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 On 2/9/2024 at 5:03 PM, edinmass said: Post photos The lever should stay anywhere you place it. Regardless if your turning or not. What do the seal look like and is it available to seal the sector shaft to stop the leak shown in the picture. Plus what’s the spring for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Usually nothing at all or felt. Some boxes have bearings and some bushings. Most have bushings and only use the fit to prevent leaks. This is why corn head grease should not be used in a box. Some seeping is normal. From your photo it looks like the box has the wrong lubricant in it. I would drain it and go to 00 fluid grease. Open the box up and put a heat lamp on it for a few days to drain it. It will take a very long time to gravity drain without heat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 (edited) Ed, what about the 00 grease Tractor Supply sells? It is a liquid, comes in a plastic bottle like gear lube. Edited February 15 by Frank DuVal (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joao46 Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 How about this product for the steering box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 The Tractor Supply type 00 grease is $6.19 a quart, the best deal going. I read that 00 grease has the consistency of applesauce- it will flow, but slowly at room temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 I use Penrite steering box lube, which has a 00 consistency. It is available at restorationstuff.com in the USA, and probably off the shelf in Australia where it is made. It works well, and seems to stay in. 4 hours ago, Joao46 said: How about this product for the steering box? Wow. I think I'm in love with that just because of the container. What a great idea! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Bloo, I also use the same stuff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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