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Nailhead Idle, AFB? - WHAT IS NORMAL?


XframeFX

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NOW . . . if they had a skinny rectangular black backing plate with a Riviera script nameplate on it, to place over the "CORVETTE", then somebody might wonder what that motor that looks like a Chevy, er "GM Powertrain" motor really is.  Could be fun to see their reactions at weekly cruise nights as young 'uns try to impress their dates.  But worth the price.  Just stick it on with double-sided trim tape so it could be easily removed later, if desired.

 

What MIGHT be better would be to put a 6L90E transmission behind that 401.  Might have to modify the trans tunnel, under the console, and get a control box to run the transmission.  Plus an upgraded charging system.  But that Nailhead TORQUE multiplied about 9 times before the rear axle, rather than the 3.6 or so times it now is, could really open some peoples' eyes and noses.

 

Then, with deeper pockets, put TBI EFI on it.  Something else the young'uns could identify with.

 

Happy Holidays!

NTX5467

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3 hours ago, XframeFX said:

My Nailhead is throwing error code "JT401". Googling that code says swap to 6.2LS!😄

You don't need to do a swap. 6.2 in this one. There are 12 year old used cars out there that slide right in with a Nailhead.

 

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Mine is a variation of the platform but there are styling ques to go right along with the 55 year old Riviera. Don't cobble up the old one when you can "buy one off the rack".

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17 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

You don't need to do a swap. 6.2 in this one. There are 12 year old used cars out there that slide right in with a Nailhead.

 

2011-Cadillac-CTSV-Coupe-Review.jpg.7164be69fab3b886b0da9f8443a25e49.jpg

 

Mine is a variation of the platform but there are styling ques to go right along with the 55 year old Riviera. Don't cobble up the old one when you can "buy one off the rack".

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Remember the Chevy commercial where the upstart Cobalt SS nudges the Corvette at a stop sign, so the Corvette will "go"?  Then the Corvette does a 180 degree burnout to face the Cobalt SS and flashes it's high beams to "glare" at the Cobalt to calm down and be respectful?  That's what this picture reminds me of.

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That was a few years ago. Those were 8.20 X 15s that came off a friend's 19 RR 58 Silver Cloud. He bought a new set every year to maintain his high point standing. I wore those out, replaced with the same. Wore those out too and this time went for the proper 2 1/2" WW.

 

When I had the big BMW I posted this picture on the Bimmer forum. The German guy said it made the 7 look like a 3.

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On 10/24/2023 at 10:33 AM, 60FlatTop said:

Just to argue to see the defense, Let's say that six of the cylinders are running lean due to air leaking through the valve guides. Cylinders 1 and 7 have good guides and are fouling due to adjustments to enrich the mixture on the six bad cylinders.

Maybe worth mentioning. I live at 2250'. Not sure how that would affect colour of sparkplugs. I know manifold vacuum would be a couple inches less at this altitude which is not overly high. It sits at 17": which should be normal.

Again, AFB #3503 is as original and valve guides are good. Sparkplugs are Autolite AP85 Fine Wire Platinum which is correct heat range I believe.

OK to run Lean? My Nailead has had Zero overheating issues.

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2 hours ago, XframeFX said:

and valve guides are good.

I just went over all the posts and the nailhead intake runner diagram while waiting for supper.

Based on the air/fuel mixture your fouled cylinders, 1 and 7, share the runners to cylinders  and six. Anything carburetor related should show up on cylinders 4 and 6, it does not.

 

Something may be happening within the 1,3,5,7 head area. To verify the valve guide being good did you remove the rocker arms ans check for movement in the stems? If you did was there anything to lead you to believe the oil passages to the crankcase might be restrictive. That could cause a backup of oil at those valves but not the center. Is your engine level and nor causing oil to pool at the ends of the head? Is it possible that  the rocker arm shaft was installed upside down and the oil distribution in correct? At this point that could be your best scenario. There is a bad one. I had a cracked piston on my '64 Riviera about 25 years ago that only hinted at a slight skip. When it manifested this was in the oil pan:

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Instead of here where it should have been.

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It was a small roughness that I just couldn't pinpoint. Experience would have me pulling the heads and pulling pistons if one of the cars did it today. Hate to scare you but I made a career of being a PIA about details.

 

It is winter here now and I am planning to pull my Riviera timing chain cover because of a little noise. It is in that area and the steel ball that rolls in the gray mud between my ears keeps going to the fuel pump eccentric and a loose bolt holding it to the cam. I am driven to check it. Details.

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3 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

Is it possible that  the rocker arm shaft was installed upside down and the oil distribution in correct?

Thanks Bernie, more to consider.

I'm scratching my head on how rocker shafts could be upside down? I've dealt with them on several occasions. Maybe I goofed early on? I had the Rocker Shafts last off in June and did not examine them too closely. I noticed some ridging on some rocker tips when others were perfect. Pictures, Pictures, never have enough now that it's together.

 

I thought my last inspection had all pushrods as straight. But a pushrod on cyl. #1 must bent slightly. I say "slightly" because it has a good spin when idling. Again, Lifter per-load was good on all 16.

Status of all 16 pushrods for both Banks while idling:

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Below are Bosch Plugs for the right plenum before the AFB rebuild summer 2021. Cyl. #7 is less black than #1 and #4. Left Plenum plugs (not shown) were tan to white.

 

As for your timing chain noise. A lot of trouble to inspect! Tom T. had a fuel pump eccentric problem on a double roller camshaft sprocket that was too thin. I wonder if that noise was similar?

Maybe you can inspect that eccentric by borescoping through the fuel pump hole?

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On 11/25/2023 at 3:29 PM, EmTee said:

What does the Ohm meter say on wire numbers 1 and 7?

Long is 944 and short is 636 ohms for Sparkplug Wires #1 & 7.

 

I can't imagine that pushrod with the slight bend on Cyl. #1 would be my smoking gun? No ticking what-so-ever.

 

Engine Analyzer above would make a good purchase but still can't justify it for one time use.

I ordered a couple of these on Amazon.ca with yesterday's Cyber Monday Sale. Hopefully they will help with further analysis:

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That PICO scope with four channels is a nice one. They make a proximity probe for KV readings. I am looking at them for my modern cars now that they are around 20 years old.

 

Back in the 1990s I had a big Allen scope and diagnostic center in my home garage. It became obsolete at the Ford garage in the 1980s and I bought it from them. As the '90s wore on I picked up this Sun unit with a KV inductive pickup and it pretty much displaced the whole Allen unit for me. Today they are still good Ebay and Craigslist buys. Under $100.

 

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What I call the butterfly pickup is what you need to look for.

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It clamps on the spark plug wires.

 

The real key that I live by is the famous quote from Julio "The level of perfection one is capable of achieving is directly proportional to the number of times they are willing to take it all apart again". It can be a painful one.

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